Discussion
- Edited*
The output used are as follows:
2SC1913-R
2SA913-R
2SD845-R
2SB755-R
Depends on the sub model as to which configuration it uses, but it seems most parts will be obtainable or equivalents can be found.
Is there a fuse ID on the circuit board etc for the one that keeps blowing?
I am assuming it is F2?
Edited by GTDB7 on Saturday 5th January 03:01
Edited by GTDB7 on Saturday 5th January 03:05
According the Service manual for the Technic SU-V6, there are only TWO fuses and no R402 ???
The TWO fuses are located on a separate circuit board by themselves and is positioned behind the power switch.
They may have updated the European spec and build slightly, is there a sub code for the amp, such as "SU-V6 M " or "SU-V6 MC" < these two codes denote US and Canada models.
The TWO fuses are located on a separate circuit board by themselves and is positioned behind the power switch.
They may have updated the European spec and build slightly, is there a sub code for the amp, such as "SU-V6 M " or "SU-V6 MC" < these two codes denote US and Canada models.
Ok, thank you the XE has a few differences from the main model.
F3 on the XE model is the fuse that controls the Voltage Select switch on the rear.
This is on the primary side of the transformer.
The fault may very well be with the transformer, although very robust items they can delaminate if they have been stored where they can be subjected to heat/cold and or damp.
You can try a quick test to see if the fault is with the transformer or on the main PCB.
You will see two grey wires coming from the transformer, these carry approx 36V AC on each thus giving you 72V AC across them. On your amp each grey wires supplies one channel with the centre tapping being 0v.
These both terminate on to the main PCB at points "636" and "638". Central to the PCB (grey - brown - grey)
You can test each channel of the amp by isolating these in turn. So disconnect one of the grey wires, we'll start with "636" and insulate it. Replace fuse and switch on.
If it blew then go ahead and repeat, this time remove the grey wires from point "638". Replace fuse and switch on.
If the fuse still blows then suspect the transformer, there is a further secondary output which supplies 6V AC to the front power lamp, however this has its own fuse which is ok.
If the fuse does NOT blow when only one of the grey wires is isolated then this has confirmed that there may be fault in one of the TWO bridge rectifiers or associated smoothing caps.
If however the fuse blows regardless of which grey wire is connected then this might signify a problem deeper in the circuit that would require proper diagnosis and rectification.
The above is a simple test that rules out a few obvious things and is something I imagine you are comfortable doing.
As the amp is old it could be a capacitor that has dried out and is now acting as a short.
F3 = T2.5A @ 250V
F3 on the XE model is the fuse that controls the Voltage Select switch on the rear.
This is on the primary side of the transformer.
The fault may very well be with the transformer, although very robust items they can delaminate if they have been stored where they can be subjected to heat/cold and or damp.
You can try a quick test to see if the fault is with the transformer or on the main PCB.
You will see two grey wires coming from the transformer, these carry approx 36V AC on each thus giving you 72V AC across them. On your amp each grey wires supplies one channel with the centre tapping being 0v.
These both terminate on to the main PCB at points "636" and "638". Central to the PCB (grey - brown - grey)
You can test each channel of the amp by isolating these in turn. So disconnect one of the grey wires, we'll start with "636" and insulate it. Replace fuse and switch on.
If it blew then go ahead and repeat, this time remove the grey wires from point "638". Replace fuse and switch on.
If the fuse still blows then suspect the transformer, there is a further secondary output which supplies 6V AC to the front power lamp, however this has its own fuse which is ok.
If the fuse does NOT blow when only one of the grey wires is isolated then this has confirmed that there may be fault in one of the TWO bridge rectifiers or associated smoothing caps.
If however the fuse blows regardless of which grey wire is connected then this might signify a problem deeper in the circuit that would require proper diagnosis and rectification.
The above is a simple test that rules out a few obvious things and is something I imagine you are comfortable doing.
As the amp is old it could be a capacitor that has dried out and is now acting as a short.
F3 = T2.5A @ 250V
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