Nuts and bolts shop, Eastleigh
Discussion
Do you mean bolt or set screw ?
Does it need to be graded ? stainless ?
A2A4 is a good bet, if you can catch him there. I think he likes to do mail order nowadays
Screwfix to M12x100 set screws, M12x120 high tensile hex bolts. Have a look here http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/bol...
If you can live with plain non graded bolts you might even find them in B&Q.
Plenty on ebay too.
Does it need to be graded ? stainless ?
A2A4 is a good bet, if you can catch him there. I think he likes to do mail order nowadays
Screwfix to M12x100 set screws, M12x120 high tensile hex bolts. Have a look here http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/bol...
If you can live with plain non graded bolts you might even find them in B&Q.
Plenty on ebay too.
Edited by Crafty_ on Friday 8th March 14:41
zed4 said:
This place is in Shirley, too far? http://www.a2a4.com/
I've used them and the chap there is very helpful - excellent website too.I use the Stainless Steel Centre on Chandlers Ford Industrial Estate, can't remember if they're open saturday though, good people who stock a really good range.
http://www.nuts4bolts.com/
http://www.nuts4bolts.com/
I threaded the captive nut while attempting to put the subframe back on my MK2 golf gti.
I plan to drill through the captive nut and remove the threads and use it as a spacer. Then use a longer M12 with a nut on the end.
So it needs to be of decent quality that wont rust and can br torqued up a lot.
Thanks for the suggestions!
I plan to drill through the captive nut and remove the threads and use it as a spacer. Then use a longer M12 with a nut on the end.
So it needs to be of decent quality that wont rust and can br torqued up a lot.
Thanks for the suggestions!
joema said:
I threaded the captive nut while attempting to put the subframe back on my MK2 golf gti.
I plan to drill through the captive nut and remove the threads and use it as a spacer. Then use a longer M12 with a nut on the end.
So it needs to be of decent quality that wont rust and can br torqued up a lot.
Thanks for the suggestions!
For an application like that you don't want stainless, I'd say ideally you want one with 12.9 on the head.I plan to drill through the captive nut and remove the threads and use it as a spacer. Then use a longer M12 with a nut on the end.
So it needs to be of decent quality that wont rust and can br torqued up a lot.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Has the one you took out got any markings on the head?
I think the screwfix ones are 8.8.
Try Lawson HIS, or CP Fastenings in Southsea, or buy online from ebay.
Steve_D said:
Yes that is the rating.
12.9 is way more than you need and in fact would be too brittle in your use.
The ones I have are 8.8 zinc plated.
Steve
I suggested 12.9 on the basis that its the best that is generally available, with little cost impact over an 8.812.9 is way more than you need and in fact would be too brittle in your use.
The ones I have are 8.8 zinc plated.
Steve
I'd be interested to know why you think a 12.9 would be too brittle for the application?
Huntsman said:
Steve_D said:
Yes that is the rating.
12.9 is way more than you need and in fact would be too brittle in your use.
The ones I have are 8.8 zinc plated.
Steve
I suggested 12.9 on the basis that its the best that is generally available, with little cost impact over an 8.812.9 is way more than you need and in fact would be too brittle in your use.
The ones I have are 8.8 zinc plated.
Steve
I'd be interested to know why you think a 12.9 would be too brittle for the application?
Steve
Steve_D said:
A 12.9 is very strong but would not work well at taking the shock loads from a suspension system.
Steve
SteveSteve
I'm not being argumentative or obtuse and I know you are an engineer, likewise me too, but I still don't really get your point, I'd like yo use this as a learning point if possible, when I consider the stress/strain graph for steels, where we'd be for an 8.8 and where we'd be with a 12.9 i really dont see any reason to use an 8.8 over a 12.9 aparts from perhaps cost?
Plus given that we don't know what was originally spec'd for this application I suggested the 12.9 as having the greatest margin.
BTW - I remember your red kit car from Marconi Broad Oak in the 1990's.
Use the right bolt for the right application.
12.9, high tensile steel bolts are great for the right application. Designed to be torqued to 90% stress, therefore cannot be used in applications where you want to use spring washers/split washers as the head is to hard for bite. Torque it, locktight it, or wire lock it to retain.
In apps where you do want to use a spring/split washer etc then use 8.8 grade.
Wouldn't bother with lower class than these for automotive apps.
12.9, high tensile steel bolts are great for the right application. Designed to be torqued to 90% stress, therefore cannot be used in applications where you want to use spring washers/split washers as the head is to hard for bite. Torque it, locktight it, or wire lock it to retain.
In apps where you do want to use a spring/split washer etc then use 8.8 grade.
Wouldn't bother with lower class than these for automotive apps.
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