Mobile Radio Fitter
Discussion
Yes, getting a head unit fitted. Agreed it’s pretty straightforward but it’s got an old telephone module fitted plus there are a number of functions controlled by the existing head unit I don’t understand. I also I don’t want to go into battle with 13 year old plastic fixings.
Edited by ballans on Friday 25th June 15:52
Is the old one the factory unit? Sometimes it’s not possible to fit a new one and keep some functions, for example I swapped one for a mate in his Peugeot and he couldn’t change the clock or other settings unless he swapped the factory one back in! Some replacements allow much control but not many.
Removing trim is easy, do it on a warm day if you’re worried, but you have to go a long way and be very very heavy handed to break trim. Get some trim removal tools off eBay for a few quid, they’re a good investment.
The hands free will be pretty straight forward,, just find the module and then trace the wires to source and remove. I’d guess at the most it will have live, earth, a mic, maybe a speaker or an adapter loom that goes between the main car loom and head unit.
I’d offer help but I’m further south west to you. At worst you could pull out the current head unit and see what’s what without changing any wiring.
If it needs removal keys just use a pair of thin Allen keys and pop out one side at a time. What car is it?
Removing trim is easy, do it on a warm day if you’re worried, but you have to go a long way and be very very heavy handed to break trim. Get some trim removal tools off eBay for a few quid, they’re a good investment.
The hands free will be pretty straight forward,, just find the module and then trace the wires to source and remove. I’d guess at the most it will have live, earth, a mic, maybe a speaker or an adapter loom that goes between the main car loom and head unit.
I’d offer help but I’m further south west to you. At worst you could pull out the current head unit and see what’s what without changing any wiring.
If it needs removal keys just use a pair of thin Allen keys and pop out one side at a time. What car is it?
Edited by Stussy on Friday 25th June 22:26
Hi Stussy. You’re right, I really should have a go at this myself and it’s a lack of confidence putting me off. There is a shop in Bristol I spoke to and they can supply and fit everything I want for about £800ish. If I go online and get the head unit, face plate and connectors it’s about £550. Quite a saving.
It’s a Porsche 997 with Chrono plus so there are a number of preset functions like climate control, lights, locking etc. I know I will lose those but hopefully once I’ve set them once I won’t have to do it again. I’ll also need to figure out how to route the DAB Ariel but I’m sure there will be something on the 911 forum as it’s a common thing to do.
Appreciate the replies, very helpful 👍
It’s a Porsche 997 with Chrono plus so there are a number of preset functions like climate control, lights, locking etc. I know I will lose those but hopefully once I’ve set them once I won’t have to do it again. I’ll also need to figure out how to route the DAB Ariel but I’m sure there will be something on the 911 forum as it’s a common thing to do.
Appreciate the replies, very helpful 👍
I’ve been having a hunt around, it sounds like you would lose the chrono stuff etc, but if that doesn’t both you then go for it.
You can always refit the factory HU when you sell the car or give buyers the option to keep it in.
If you’ve already found the harness and facia needed then you’re half way there!
You’ll save money and also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
As said before, get a trim removal set for the few quid they’re well worth it, and you may need the flat removal keys, or just use Allen keys if it’s the round holes.
I’d be willing to bet there are YouTube videos showing removal.
As above, the phone kit will be easy to get rid of.
Post up if you get stuck!
You can always refit the factory HU when you sell the car or give buyers the option to keep it in.
If you’ve already found the harness and facia needed then you’re half way there!
You’ll save money and also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
As said before, get a trim removal set for the few quid they’re well worth it, and you may need the flat removal keys, or just use Allen keys if it’s the round holes.
I’d be willing to bet there are YouTube videos showing removal.
As above, the phone kit will be easy to get rid of.
Post up if you get stuck!
Stussy said:
I’ve been having a hunt around, it sounds like you would lose the chrono stuff etc, but if that doesn’t both you then go for it.
You can always refit the factory HU when you sell the car or give buyers the option to keep it in.
If you’ve already found the harness and facia needed then you’re half way there!
You’ll save money and also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
As said before, get a trim removal set for the few quid they’re well worth it, and you may need the flat removal keys, or just use Allen keys if it’s the round holes.
I’d be willing to bet there are YouTube videos showing removal.
As above, the phone kit will be easy to get rid of.
Post up if you get stuck!
Thanks, I’ll give it a go. I’ve already found a few videos showing how to remove the existing HU and very straight forward. Still haven’t found anything showing how to route the DAB Ariel cable (one of those stuck on jobs) but will be able to ask on 911 forum. Will let you know how I get on. You can always refit the factory HU when you sell the car or give buyers the option to keep it in.
If you’ve already found the harness and facia needed then you’re half way there!
You’ll save money and also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
As said before, get a trim removal set for the few quid they’re well worth it, and you may need the flat removal keys, or just use Allen keys if it’s the round holes.
I’d be willing to bet there are YouTube videos showing removal.
As above, the phone kit will be easy to get rid of.
Post up if you get stuck!
Cheers!
The last DAB stick on one I fitted was a BMW Mini, usual routing is along the bottom of the inside of the dash, then exit up the side and hide it behind the trim round the door opening and attach in the corner of the screen as tight into the corner as possible. Maybe in a 997 it would be easy to hide it better in the rear quarter side window?
If so, along the bottom of the dash again, then down the side of the footwell behind the trim and along behind the door sill trim and up towards the window bottom.
Usually with a trim tool you can prise a gap to slide the cable behind it as you work along it so you don’t need to remove the trim part at all. I’ve done it that way for years! Always route it down the passenger side, then you don’t have to battle with the steering wheel when working under the dash
Edit to add: use a few cable ties as it goes along the bottom of the dash at appropriate points so it doesn’t sag down in the future or move around.
No need to research it, just choose where you want the aerial and then workout how to get there. Remember when fitting it to start at the aerial end, so then any excess cable can be hidden in the dash, and it’s easier to fit through small gaps working with just the connector rather than the whole aerial. Finally, sometimes it’s easier to bridge sections you can get your hands in to access by using a straightened metal coat hanger with the wire taped on the end then feed it through.
Hopefully I’m not stating the obvious, just little tricks I’ve picked up over the years
If so, along the bottom of the dash again, then down the side of the footwell behind the trim and along behind the door sill trim and up towards the window bottom.
Usually with a trim tool you can prise a gap to slide the cable behind it as you work along it so you don’t need to remove the trim part at all. I’ve done it that way for years! Always route it down the passenger side, then you don’t have to battle with the steering wheel when working under the dash
Edit to add: use a few cable ties as it goes along the bottom of the dash at appropriate points so it doesn’t sag down in the future or move around.
No need to research it, just choose where you want the aerial and then workout how to get there. Remember when fitting it to start at the aerial end, so then any excess cable can be hidden in the dash, and it’s easier to fit through small gaps working with just the connector rather than the whole aerial. Finally, sometimes it’s easier to bridge sections you can get your hands in to access by using a straightened metal coat hanger with the wire taped on the end then feed it through.
Hopefully I’m not stating the obvious, just little tricks I’ve picked up over the years
Edited by Stussy on Sunday 27th June 09:56
More tips…
Put a towel over the gear stick/centre console before starting anything. Then you can rest the head units there while dealing with any cables to avoid scratches.
When fitting the new one, get all cables needed coming out of the head unit hole first, so they’re all ready to attach in one go at the end.
Then fit the new facia, obviously feeding the cables through it!
Finally attach all cables to the new one, and test it all before giving the new unit the final push into place!
Put a towel over the gear stick/centre console before starting anything. Then you can rest the head units there while dealing with any cables to avoid scratches.
When fitting the new one, get all cables needed coming out of the head unit hole first, so they’re all ready to attach in one go at the end.
Then fit the new facia, obviously feeding the cables through it!
Finally attach all cables to the new one, and test it all before giving the new unit the final push into place!
Hi all. Just a quick update on where I got with this.
I didn’t do it myself as its quite a bit more involved than plug and play. There is no adapter harness and you have to re wire the ISO to the amp in the boot and run a switched earth back to the fuse box. I really didn’t fancy that. I also discovered that the ASK amp is broken so that has been sent off to Norway to be fixed!
The guy in Weston is still going and covers Taunton area but unfortunately won’t touch Porsches.
A bit of asking around and it turns out my friends cousin runs SC Performance in Taunton. They are a garage specialising in performance cars and back in the Max Power days one of their main lines of business was car audio so lots of experience.
I took it there and they managed to get everything working. Good guys and good service so can recommend them.
I now have DAB and Apple play so much happier. Just waiting for the amp to return and then I will have some bass too.
I didn’t do it myself as its quite a bit more involved than plug and play. There is no adapter harness and you have to re wire the ISO to the amp in the boot and run a switched earth back to the fuse box. I really didn’t fancy that. I also discovered that the ASK amp is broken so that has been sent off to Norway to be fixed!
The guy in Weston is still going and covers Taunton area but unfortunately won’t touch Porsches.
A bit of asking around and it turns out my friends cousin runs SC Performance in Taunton. They are a garage specialising in performance cars and back in the Max Power days one of their main lines of business was car audio so lots of experience.
I took it there and they managed to get everything working. Good guys and good service so can recommend them.
I now have DAB and Apple play so much happier. Just waiting for the amp to return and then I will have some bass too.
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