Mechanic in the NE with MR2 experience?
Discussion
I'm going to be needing a good mechanic soon to do some jobs on the MR2, including a cambelt, and wondering if anyone knows anyone who may fit the bill; perhaps someone who is good with mid-engined cars would be good enough for this?
OlberJ has already suggested Woodsport, but as a rule, I know they tend to do engine swaps rather than repairs, but will try them if all else fails, but closer to newcastle, the better...
I suppose I could try a dealer, but I'm not made of money, and realistically, we are talking about a car that's perilously close to shed territory here!
OlberJ has already suggested Woodsport, but as a rule, I know they tend to do engine swaps rather than repairs, but will try them if all else fails, but closer to newcastle, the better...
I suppose I could try a dealer, but I'm not made of money, and realistically, we are talking about a car that's perilously close to shed territory here!
You could try my mate Chris @ GTS Chris.com (Cramlington/Bedlington)
Should come up with a google search. I've only got his personal number so can't help with that.
He's been doing MR2s for years but he may just bust'em for parts now. I'm pretty sure he still does repairs too though.
PS. Shed money for the car doesn't mean shed money for the running unfortunately!
See 996 Turbos for another good example of this.
Should come up with a google search. I've only got his personal number so can't help with that.
He's been doing MR2s for years but he may just bust'em for parts now. I'm pretty sure he still does repairs too though.
PS. Shed money for the car doesn't mean shed money for the running unfortunately!
See 996 Turbos for another good example of this.
Edited by marky911 on Thursday 21st July 21:40
marky911 said:
PS. Shed money for the car doesn't mean shed money for the running unfortunately!
See 996 Turbos for another good example of this.
True, but when we're talking about a car worth £1.5k, and not exactly a concourse example to say the least, then you can appreciate why I wouldn't want to spend silly money on it! (and I couldn't afford to anyway)See 996 Turbos for another good example of this.
That said, I am well aware things like cambelts won't be the cheapest, comes with the territory with a mid-engined car, but I'm hoping it can be done for vaguely sensible money, or it'll get run till it snaps!
Anyway cheers for the advice, I'll look him up.
Ah yeah, we can all do with saving a bit a the minute.
Don't quote me on this (as it's 10 yrs or so since I had mine) but I'm pretty sure the Turbo engines are non-interference. Sounds unbelievable these days but I seem to remember that. If it is then run it til it snaps if you're in the AA.
I can find out for you if you can't, although if you know OlberJ, he'll know more than me.
I also seem to remember that an engine mounting is located in the centre of the timing belt run, so that has to be seperated to do it.
Years ago I paid £150 cash to have mine done and I supplied the belt. Not too relative now but you know it'll be more than that.
Like I say, if they're non-interference you can just run it and save yourself some cash.
Let me know if you can't find out and I can speak to my mate tomorrow.
Garages may not tell you if it is, especially if they're going to lose out on the job.
Don't quote me on this (as it's 10 yrs or so since I had mine) but I'm pretty sure the Turbo engines are non-interference. Sounds unbelievable these days but I seem to remember that. If it is then run it til it snaps if you're in the AA.
I can find out for you if you can't, although if you know OlberJ, he'll know more than me.
I also seem to remember that an engine mounting is located in the centre of the timing belt run, so that has to be seperated to do it.
Years ago I paid £150 cash to have mine done and I supplied the belt. Not too relative now but you know it'll be more than that.
Like I say, if they're non-interference you can just run it and save yourself some cash.
Let me know if you can't find out and I can speak to my mate tomorrow.
Garages may not tell you if it is, especially if they're going to lose out on the job.
marky911 said:
Ah yeah, we can all do with saving a bit a the minute.
Don't quote me on this (as it's 10 yrs or so since I had mine) but I'm pretty sure the Turbo engines are non-interference. Sounds unbelievable these days but I seem to remember that. If it is then run it til it snaps if you're in the AA.
I can find out for you if you can't, although if you know OlberJ, he'll know more than me.
I also seem to remember that an engine mounting is located in the centre of the timing belt run, so that has to be seperated to do it.
Years ago I paid £150 cash to have mine done and I supplied the belt. Not too relative now but you know it'll be more than that.
Like I say, if they're non-interference you can just run it and save yourself some cash.
Let me know if you can't find out and I can speak to my mate tomorrow.
Garages may not tell you if it is, especially if they're going to lose out on the job.
Hi mate, I think what you're saying is indeed correct, they are none-interference, but that said there are one or two tales of bent valves as a result IIRC... one of my mates seems to think the same though, just run it till it snaps! I don't really do a huge mileage (3Kish P/A - it's not a daily driver), but as things stand it was done 6.5 years ago but only about 35K miles on the existing one, so although it probably *should* be done, it can probably wait.Don't quote me on this (as it's 10 yrs or so since I had mine) but I'm pretty sure the Turbo engines are non-interference. Sounds unbelievable these days but I seem to remember that. If it is then run it til it snaps if you're in the AA.
I can find out for you if you can't, although if you know OlberJ, he'll know more than me.
I also seem to remember that an engine mounting is located in the centre of the timing belt run, so that has to be seperated to do it.
Years ago I paid £150 cash to have mine done and I supplied the belt. Not too relative now but you know it'll be more than that.
Like I say, if they're non-interference you can just run it and save yourself some cash.
Let me know if you can't find out and I can speak to my mate tomorrow.
Garages may not tell you if it is, especially if they're going to lose out on the job.
See what your mate says though and let me know. I have had contact from someone who has seen the thread and not posted on it who can probably do it though, so at least I know there are a few options out there; I'd certainly rather have work done by those familiar with MR2s / mid-engined cars, as your normal run of the mill garage may well be out of their depth IMO, and it may end up costing more!
marky911 said:
You could try my mate Chris @ GTS Chris.com (Cramlington/Bedlington)
Should come up with a google search. I've only got his personal number so can't help with that.
He's been doing MR2s for years but he may just bust'em for parts now. I'm pretty sure he still does repairs too though.
+1 for this guy, he knows his MR2s.Should come up with a google search. I've only got his personal number so can't help with that.
He's been doing MR2s for years but he may just bust'em for parts now. I'm pretty sure he still does repairs too though.
Edited by marky911 on Thursday 21st July 21:40
Afternoon!
Right, spoke to Chris today and obviously the standard warning applies that he would never recommend going beyond manufacturers schedules, etc but, having said that....
he also went onto say if it still has the proper Toyota belt or it was fitted with a genuine Toyota belt last time, they are very good belts and he has seen original belts in 9 year old engines before!!
So he said personally he would run it until something else big needs doing, such as clutch and drop the engine out to do the whole thing in one go. Technically the belt can be done in-situ but he increasingly finds bolts rounded off, stripped, etc, depending on who has been in there in the past, so therefore ends up dropping the engine out anyway.
He says to make sure in the AA/RAC though, just incase.
Regarding the engines being non-interference. They are just. Basically, if the engine is running standard cams, etc and has never had the block or head skimmed, then valves should not contact if a belt goes. He has only ever seen valve damage on tuned motors or as mentioned engines that have previously had head-skims due to head-gasket failure etc.
If the belt goes the only thing it will damage on a standard engine is the plastic belt cover, as the snapped belt wraps around the bottom pulley, which busts the cover. No biggie then, on the scale of things.
Obviously there may be a very odd exception to the above, but Chris has been busting, repairing and tuning Jap cars (predominantly MR2s) for over ten years now, so has seen most examples of what can happen.
Hope that helps you decide. I'd be leaving it if money is tight, especially as you say the cost of the job compared to cost the of the car will be a fair percentage.
Good luck. I hope it's kind to you.
ETA - Stargazer, thanks for the kind words towards Chris. I'm sure he'll appreciate the positive feedback.
Right, spoke to Chris today and obviously the standard warning applies that he would never recommend going beyond manufacturers schedules, etc but, having said that....
he also went onto say if it still has the proper Toyota belt or it was fitted with a genuine Toyota belt last time, they are very good belts and he has seen original belts in 9 year old engines before!!
So he said personally he would run it until something else big needs doing, such as clutch and drop the engine out to do the whole thing in one go. Technically the belt can be done in-situ but he increasingly finds bolts rounded off, stripped, etc, depending on who has been in there in the past, so therefore ends up dropping the engine out anyway.
He says to make sure in the AA/RAC though, just incase.
Regarding the engines being non-interference. They are just. Basically, if the engine is running standard cams, etc and has never had the block or head skimmed, then valves should not contact if a belt goes. He has only ever seen valve damage on tuned motors or as mentioned engines that have previously had head-skims due to head-gasket failure etc.
If the belt goes the only thing it will damage on a standard engine is the plastic belt cover, as the snapped belt wraps around the bottom pulley, which busts the cover. No biggie then, on the scale of things.
Obviously there may be a very odd exception to the above, but Chris has been busting, repairing and tuning Jap cars (predominantly MR2s) for over ten years now, so has seen most examples of what can happen.
Hope that helps you decide. I'd be leaving it if money is tight, especially as you say the cost of the job compared to cost the of the car will be a fair percentage.
Good luck. I hope it's kind to you.
ETA - Stargazer, thanks for the kind words towards Chris. I'm sure he'll appreciate the positive feedback.
Edited by marky911 on Friday 22 July 17:46
Hi Marky, thanks for the advice, think I will leave it then... especially as the mileage I'm doing is very low anyway, and once the money situation gets better, I'll probably be moving on from it anyway, even if it is just to a better condition MR2! Thanks for asking though, I really do appreciate it
No probs at all.
We can all do with saving a bit where we can. Like I say, I hope you get away with it and it doesn't go pear shaped. You should be OK though.
Great cars the MR2s. Feel really special to drive. I liked mine a lot although could never totally relax with its handling, mainly when wet. It would always try and push the front wheels straight on at roundabouts, then the back end would snap round. You have to be bloody quick to catch them too!
Most of Chris' stock for breaking consists of cars with caved in rear corners.
In the dry though, they can out run a lot more expensive machinery, especially with a few choice mods and pop up lights are sooo cool!
I'd have another for smoking about in. I think a white Rev 3 with graphite Jap wheels on would be the one to go for.
Anyway, take it easy, enjoy it and if you need any info in the future, get in touch. Or ring Chris and say you've spoken to me.
We can all do with saving a bit where we can. Like I say, I hope you get away with it and it doesn't go pear shaped. You should be OK though.
Great cars the MR2s. Feel really special to drive. I liked mine a lot although could never totally relax with its handling, mainly when wet. It would always try and push the front wheels straight on at roundabouts, then the back end would snap round. You have to be bloody quick to catch them too!
Most of Chris' stock for breaking consists of cars with caved in rear corners.
In the dry though, they can out run a lot more expensive machinery, especially with a few choice mods and pop up lights are sooo cool!
I'd have another for smoking about in. I think a white Rev 3 with graphite Jap wheels on would be the one to go for.
Anyway, take it easy, enjoy it and if you need any info in the future, get in touch. Or ring Chris and say you've spoken to me.
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