Discussion
Further to the door hanging thread I thought this information might be useful to others and for future reference.
Complete upper hinge which was 'hacked' out of the body tub
Bobbins inside the door
Exploded hinge
The M10 bobbins and the nylon 'top hat' bushes are available from TVR Car Parts. As I understand it the critical thing is to have the M10 hinge bolt tighten into the bobbin
without any thread protruding, this is certainly so for the top hinge but possibly the bottom bobbin has a void below.
The unthreaded shank needs to be approx 52mm and the threaded length no more than 15mm, to achieve this you will have to have to cut down a longer bolt, probably 70 - 80mm overall length.
Earlier cars, possibly S1 but with TVR who knows, used M8 bobbins but neither they or the appropriate nylon bush is available. However the outside diameter of the both the M10 and M8 bushes are identical so as long as the bobbin glassed into the body shell is changed to an M10 earlier hinges can be reconditioned.
I have all the other dimensions if anybody would like them.
It does occur to me that replacement sets in stainless could be useful so if anyone is interested I could price up replacement sets. Obviously I would approach TVR Car Parts for bobbins/bushes.
This thread is also possibly useful http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Complete upper hinge which was 'hacked' out of the body tub
Bobbins inside the door
Exploded hinge
The M10 bobbins and the nylon 'top hat' bushes are available from TVR Car Parts. As I understand it the critical thing is to have the M10 hinge bolt tighten into the bobbin
without any thread protruding, this is certainly so for the top hinge but possibly the bottom bobbin has a void below.
The unthreaded shank needs to be approx 52mm and the threaded length no more than 15mm, to achieve this you will have to have to cut down a longer bolt, probably 70 - 80mm overall length.
Earlier cars, possibly S1 but with TVR who knows, used M8 bobbins but neither they or the appropriate nylon bush is available. However the outside diameter of the both the M10 and M8 bushes are identical so as long as the bobbin glassed into the body shell is changed to an M10 earlier hinges can be reconditioned.
I have all the other dimensions if anybody would like them.
It does occur to me that replacement sets in stainless could be useful so if anyone is interested I could price up replacement sets. Obviously I would approach TVR Car Parts for bobbins/bushes.
This thread is also possibly useful http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by Gerald-TVR on Monday 2nd May 08:21
Sorry if I'm being thick, but are all these photos of the top hinge? I managed to take up some of the sag in my door by tweeking the nuts either side of the lower hinge bracket. The bolt in the top was very stiff and I din't want to force it in case it ripped itself out of the moulding so I left it alone. If the bolt in the upper hinge designed so that if you tighten it, ie turn it clockwise, it effectively pulls the dood up? Mine's still not quite perfect but I've been reluctant to push my luck any further. Thanks. Joe
v8s4me said:
Sorry if I'm being thick, but are all these photos of the top hinge? I managed to take up some of the sag in my door by tweeking the nuts either side of the lower hinge bracket. The bolt in the top was very stiff and I din't want to force it in case it ripped itself out of the moulding so I left it alone. If the bolt in the upper hinge designed so that if you tighten it, ie turn it clockwise, it effectively pulls the dood up? Mine's still not quite perfect but I've been reluctant to push my luck any further. Thanks. Joe
The first is the top hinge and the exploded the lower but they are identical in all respects. The center bolt is just the hinge pin and tighten it will only serve to lock it tighter in the bobbin, unless you have more than 15mm of thread when it could just break through the painted area above the top hinge. As you can see the is a large, 20mm, gap between the head and the body of the hinge so when new (and not clagged and rusted up) the hinge plate would slide up and down the bolt shank. The only things that locates the door in the vertical are the top hat nylon bushes. If there is excessive plane up and down then I would guess that if the bushes were replaced that would remove the play. Or possibly adding new thin nylon washersv8s4me said:
If the bolt in the upper hinge designed so that if you tighten it, ie turn it clockwise, it effectively pulls the dood up?
No will NOT pull the door up, unless the bolt head is flush to the hinge plate and it isnt designed to be that way but possible I suppose it the wrong sort of bolt has been fitted.v8s4me said:
Mine's still not quite perfect but I've been reluctant to push my luck any further.
Wise moveThanks Norman. So all the adjustment comes from the bottom hinge then? On mine (bottom) there is a nut on either side of the door plate so by slackening the upper nut and tightening the lower one I was able to lift the door and take out some of the sag. From memory, the shaft on which the plate slides seems to be threaded all the way to the bolt head. Does that sound right to you? Would trying to “lift” it a bit more put the upper hinge under any strain or is that just pusing my luck? Many thnaks. Joe
v8s4me said:
On mine (bottom) there is a nut on either side of the door plate so by slackening the upper nut and tightening the lower one I was able to lift the door and take out some of the sag.
Hi JoeSounds very different from what I thought the standard setup was. I would be very wary of tightening the top bolt because of the potential to crack through the body tub above the door but I guess there is a void below the lower bobbin. Would be very useful if you could take a photo the next time you have the door card off. Cant give you any other advice, sorry
Norman
v8s4me said:
The door cards will be comming off next month to so I'll take some photos then if I can get a shot of it. I'm not taking the window frame out so getting a clear view might be tricky but I'll have a go. I did it all by feel last time.
From memory you can't see alot without taking the window frame out, the bottom of the frame in mine rests on the hinge. The hole in the bottom of the frame goes round one of the two adjustment bolt ends.Liam
Gerald-TVR said:
The unthreaded shank needs to be approx 52mm and the threaded length no more than 15mm, to achieve this you will have to have to cut down a longer bolt, probably 70 - 80mm overall length.
I have found out that an M10 bolt x 75mm long should have a shank of 49mm, which would be fine, and a threaded length of 26mm which would have to be shortned definatly for the top bolt and possibly for the lowerNorman
Norman,
The pictures of the hinge in the last set of photos, with the nuts showing rather than the bolt heads, is exactly how mine looks and mine is an S2.My window frame also bolts to the front of the door as in your photo.
Are any two TVR's the same?????
I'm in the process of ordering the bushes and when the weather improves I'm going to have a go at trying to profile the doors. I will take some photos and once I have learnt to attach them to these threads, I will post them.Any advice in attaching photos, how to add my car to the members car list and adding to the parts list would be appreciated.
Tom
The pictures of the hinge in the last set of photos, with the nuts showing rather than the bolt heads, is exactly how mine looks and mine is an S2.My window frame also bolts to the front of the door as in your photo.
Are any two TVR's the same?????
I'm in the process of ordering the bushes and when the weather improves I'm going to have a go at trying to profile the doors. I will take some photos and once I have learnt to attach them to these threads, I will post them.Any advice in attaching photos, how to add my car to the members car list and adding to the parts list would be appreciated.
Tom
tom traynor said:
Any advice in attaching photos, how to add my car to the members car list and adding to the parts list would be appreciated.
Tom
Hi TomTom
if you "Start Topic" or "Reply to Topic" you will see some options lined up above the panel you type in. The right hand side has "upload an image (beta)"... click on that and you can follow the options from there via browse it will take you to your pc's explorer, find the folder with your pics in and away you go. Theres a max size but you should be OK...
If you open the S1 to S3 Owners List Wiki, you will again see options in the top left of the screen - "Update this article" is the one you want... the formatting is a bit cranky but you had best just copy a whole line of someone else, paste it at the bottom of the list (unless you can find a vacant number) and then edit the detail to your own
so "||2|| bills1||S1||Arabian Blue||1988||E735TVR-||Axminster||-||2000||2009||"
becomes:
| 2 | bills1 | S1 | Arabian Blue | 1988 | E735TVR- | Axminster | - | 2000 | 2009 |
if you get stuck, just yell out and I'll fix it for you
K
v8s4me said:
Brilliant drawing Norman. if this was the bottom hinge, would there be an adjusting nut on either side of the hinge plate? Thanks. Joe
No adjusting nuts at all on either top or bottom hinge, dont forget this is an S2 and itspossible that the S3 and later might differ. However i still have an S3 door (but not at home), when I get a chance I'll strip the hinges on that as well and check for differencesGassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff