POR 15 ADVICE ! FROM GUYS THAT HAVE USED IT

[PYNEY]

hi all

i've opened a tin of por 15 "grey" and given it a good stir and have done a test
with it on some of my chassis

its very thin "pissy" with no body "covering ability" to it at all,does this seem right ? the tin is 1.5 years old never opened
i've also done the same with the top coat "stirling silver" this required a good stir and has good body "covering ability" to it

does this seem correct , or has the paint got a limited shelf life ?

thanks keith

[tvrgit]

The POR15 grey is very thin, the first coat doesn't seem to cover, but I found the second coat bound a lot better and was very even.. I didn't use a brush I used a foam pad thing I bought from a ship's chandlers - it gave good coverage using the sides and edges as well as just the tip, like a brush would.

Can't comment on the Sterling Silver - I used red "Hard Nose" topcoat, it went on better and was very even after 2 coats as well.

[TonupS2]

Not used it but would the first coat act like a stabiliser or ensure a good key for the thick top coat?

[DeadSpider]

Have used it quite a bit first on my S and then on the Taimar.

Lots of people have used it on here one of the latest posts below.

http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a... 15 PAINT

It is in my experience very thin stuff but is very good, working particulary well on seasoned metal.





Follow the instructions on the web site and you cant go wrong. Preperation is the key degrease using there metal clean and wash off . Then apply the etch primer allow to cure and wash off ,then apply two coats of the POR 15.
Just do not get it on yourself as it really does not come off. Have you tried re opening the tin,has a habit of welding the lid in place.
I get round this by inverting the tin and putting two small self tappers through the bottom one to pour out of and one to allow the air in when doing so.
Have fun with the stuff.

Cheers Andy





http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a... 15 PAINT

[tinks v8S]

i was told to buy some ACF 50 ,told it goes on great and is clear,comes in a spray can
on ebay £9,99 a can

only when your chassis has been painted

Edited by tinks v8S on Monday 25th October 21:26

[PYNEY]

thanks guys

i'm also thinking whether the por 15 grey coat is best for me so more advice required
the previous owner has applied a rust converter to the chassis which has worked well but i want
to apply a paint finish to it to give it more protection for the winter months

the surface of the chassis is quiet smooth because of the rust converter finish
and i think the por 15 requires the natural rust to help key it in
would you stick with the por 15 grey ? 2 coats and 1 top coat
appply just the stirling silver topcoat , this on my test sample looks very good and am thinking of applying 2 coats of this
or is there another paint i can apply to the rust converter , hammerite or something ?

[phillpot]

tinks v8S said:

i was told to buy some ACF 50 ,told it goes on great and is clear,comes in a spray can
on ebay £9,99 a can

But thats not a paint ? Its more like a "thicker, gooyer WD40" very good for protecting bzp parts like nuts and bolts, the bit of the cv joints thats not covered by the boot, fuel pump, etc. etc.

[DeadSpider]

Not sure that POR 15 would be any good over the already applied rust inhibitor. As it does need I believe to be applied over seasoned metal and following the steps already stated. Mine has been shot blasted.

Your probably better off just applying the silver topcoat for added protection.
Would not bother with hammerite in my experience tends to chip easily

Edited by DeadSpider on Monday 25th October 21:53

[PYNEY]

applying the stirling silver at the moment great stuff , flows really well

for those that dont know this ! i cleaned out my brushes the other day with the por solvent
it smelt just like white spirits ?

so today i cleaned out the brushes with white spirits it actualy worked better and alot cheaper than there special solvent ?