Replacing rocker cover gaskets, how hard a job?
Replacing rocker cover gaskets, how hard a job?
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markbigears

Original Poster:

2,485 posts

298 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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Afternoon all, noticed a small amount of oil around the base of the rocker cover (2.9 V6), looks like it's time for a gasket change. Had a look through the "bible" but didn't see a walk through of replacing them? How hard a job is it? What are the torque settings of the bolts? Apart from the gaskets, anything else I should replace at the time? and lastly .... do you put cork gaskets on, or silicon ones? (if they exist?, supplier?). Cheers, Mark



Edited by markbigears on Thursday 2nd September 13:39

hallsie

2,185 posts

249 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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Hi Mark

Ive just done mine on my 280i FHC which is pretty much the same, and all in all is a 30 min job (taking away the fact that I sanded back the old paint and surface rust and re painted with hi temp paint, 2 days)
I used cork gaskets with a cheeky smear of hylomar sealant and done the bolts up finger tight with just under a quater turn on the ratchet afterwards!

Not sure if there is a specific torque setting, Ive always done them by feel!

Stu

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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New available from Ford dealers (or were a couple of months ago) Motorcraft 1651474 (but double check) and have metal inserts and sticky on one side to make the job easy

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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Mark, pretty easy job.

Remove spark plug leads, oil filler cap (nearside cover) and breather hose (offside cover).

Then you need to remove the alternator - disconnect battery, disconnect both alternator cables ( do NOT do this while battery is connected!) loosen pulley bolt, take off fan belt, then take off alternator complete with bracket - 2 13mm bolts under the front, 1 19mm bolt behind no 1 spark plug.

Then 8 10mm bolts on each rocker cover, remove cover & old gasket.

You get cork gaskets, 2 types - pattern ones are cork only, genuine Ford ones had metal pins embedded so that you couldn't over-compress the gasket. They also have 1 self-adhesive side which makes a big difference!

Clean off any oil, peel the backing paper off and stick the gasket onto the cover. Waggle the cover on. Replace the bolts and spreaders. They only need to be nipped up enough to slightly compress the cork. If you "tighten" them, you'll squash the gasket right out of the join, and it'll piss out oil like a BP Eco-disaster. This happened to me the one time I followed a torque setting.

The rest, in finest Haynes tradition, is a reverse of removal.

[edited because Iphones are pish]

Edited by tvrgit on Thursday 2nd September 14:16

markbigears

Original Poster:

2,485 posts

298 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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Chaps, what can I say, many thanks for all your input, parts numbers and detailed advice. Will order the gaskets up and crack on!


TonupS2

401 posts

219 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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When I took mine off recently I noticed that they had previously been over tightened. No leaks but when I laid the rocker covers flat on the worktop I could see that the mateing surfaces were not flat and level, and had pulled down slightly at the bolt positions. So be careful not to over tighten them.
PS I am about to get the half moon shaped spreader washers under the rocker bolts re-nickle plated. I have some extras so will get these done too, I will therefore have an additional 15 shiny spares. If somebody wants them let me know. Or if somebody has 1 spare (of the striaghter variety) and could send it to me before Monday/Tuesday (when I take them to the plater's) I will have a full set of 16 going free (first dabs to whoever sends a spare).
Tony

Edited by TonupS2 on Thursday 2nd September 16:26

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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Tony, yhm

Mike.

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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tvrgit said:
Then you need to remove the alternator - disconnect battery, disconnect both alternator cables ( do NOT do this while battery is connected!) loosen pulley bolt, take off fan belt, then take off alternator complete with bracket - 2 13mm bolts under the front, 1 19mm bolt behind no 1 spark plug.
Didnt have to do any of the above, just manourvered the covers carefully

Norman

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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Your alternator must be good bit higher then mine then - the cover almost touches the bracket, there's no way I would get the cover over the rockers, at any angle, with the alternator in place.

mep12345

2,061 posts

230 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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tvrgit said:
edited because Iphones are pish
Or cos you've got sausages for fingers Andrew hehe

mikel003003

1,084 posts

195 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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is it wise to do valve timings at the same time ?

orange_dodo

694 posts

218 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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When I did mine I didn't tighten them enough but its fairly obvious as smoke starts billowing out from the bonnet as oil hits the exhaust manifold! a nip tighter than that and they sealed fine. I have a torque wrench that has a scale of 10-80Nm and I think 10 would be too much.



They don't need to be tight though. If you snap a bolt its too tight...not that I've done that you understand paperbagwhistle

steve j

3,223 posts

257 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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orange_dodo said:
When I did mine I didn't tighten them enough but its fairly obvious as smoke starts billowing out from the bonnet as oil hits the exhaust manifold! a nip tighter than that and they sealed fine. I have a torque wrench that has a scale of 10-80Nm and I think 10 would be too much.



They don't need to be tight though. If you snap a bolt its too tight...not that I've done that you understand paperbagwhistle
laughlaughlaughlaughlaughlaughlaughlaughlaughlaughlaugh
Tom, nearly as bad as me and my brakes biggrin

orange_dodo

694 posts

218 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
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boxedin





nearly.....but not quite hehe