Replacing rocker cover gaskets, how hard a job?
Discussion
Afternoon all, noticed a small amount of oil around the base of the rocker cover (2.9 V6), looks like it's time for a gasket change. Had a look through the "bible" but didn't see a walk through of replacing them? How hard a job is it? What are the torque settings of the bolts? Apart from the gaskets, anything else I should replace at the time? and lastly .... do you put cork gaskets on, or silicon ones? (if they exist?, supplier?). Cheers, Mark
Edited by markbigears on Thursday 2nd September 13:39
Hi Mark
Ive just done mine on my 280i FHC which is pretty much the same, and all in all is a 30 min job (taking away the fact that I sanded back the old paint and surface rust and re painted with hi temp paint, 2 days)
I used cork gaskets with a cheeky smear of hylomar sealant and done the bolts up finger tight with just under a quater turn on the ratchet afterwards!
Not sure if there is a specific torque setting, Ive always done them by feel!
Stu
Ive just done mine on my 280i FHC which is pretty much the same, and all in all is a 30 min job (taking away the fact that I sanded back the old paint and surface rust and re painted with hi temp paint, 2 days)
I used cork gaskets with a cheeky smear of hylomar sealant and done the bolts up finger tight with just under a quater turn on the ratchet afterwards!
Not sure if there is a specific torque setting, Ive always done them by feel!
Stu
Mark, pretty easy job.
Remove spark plug leads, oil filler cap (nearside cover) and breather hose (offside cover).
Then you need to remove the alternator - disconnect battery, disconnect both alternator cables ( do NOT do this while battery is connected!) loosen pulley bolt, take off fan belt, then take off alternator complete with bracket - 2 13mm bolts under the front, 1 19mm bolt behind no 1 spark plug.
Then 8 10mm bolts on each rocker cover, remove cover & old gasket.
You get cork gaskets, 2 types - pattern ones are cork only, genuine Ford ones had metal pins embedded so that you couldn't over-compress the gasket. They also have 1 self-adhesive side which makes a big difference!
Clean off any oil, peel the backing paper off and stick the gasket onto the cover. Waggle the cover on. Replace the bolts and spreaders. They only need to be nipped up enough to slightly compress the cork. If you "tighten" them, you'll squash the gasket right out of the join, and it'll piss out oil like a BP Eco-disaster. This happened to me the one time I followed a torque setting.
The rest, in finest Haynes tradition, is a reverse of removal.
[edited because Iphones are pish]
Remove spark plug leads, oil filler cap (nearside cover) and breather hose (offside cover).
Then you need to remove the alternator - disconnect battery, disconnect both alternator cables ( do NOT do this while battery is connected!) loosen pulley bolt, take off fan belt, then take off alternator complete with bracket - 2 13mm bolts under the front, 1 19mm bolt behind no 1 spark plug.
Then 8 10mm bolts on each rocker cover, remove cover & old gasket.
You get cork gaskets, 2 types - pattern ones are cork only, genuine Ford ones had metal pins embedded so that you couldn't over-compress the gasket. They also have 1 self-adhesive side which makes a big difference!
Clean off any oil, peel the backing paper off and stick the gasket onto the cover. Waggle the cover on. Replace the bolts and spreaders. They only need to be nipped up enough to slightly compress the cork. If you "tighten" them, you'll squash the gasket right out of the join, and it'll piss out oil like a BP Eco-disaster. This happened to me the one time I followed a torque setting.
The rest, in finest Haynes tradition, is a reverse of removal.
[edited because Iphones are pish]
Edited by tvrgit on Thursday 2nd September 14:16
When I took mine off recently I noticed that they had previously been over tightened. No leaks but when I laid the rocker covers flat on the worktop I could see that the mateing surfaces were not flat and level, and had pulled down slightly at the bolt positions. So be careful not to over tighten them.
PS I am about to get the half moon shaped spreader washers under the rocker bolts re-nickle plated. I have some extras so will get these done too, I will therefore have an additional 15 shiny spares. If somebody wants them let me know. Or if somebody has 1 spare (of the striaghter variety) and could send it to me before Monday/Tuesday (when I take them to the plater's) I will have a full set of 16 going free (first dabs to whoever sends a spare).
Tony
PS I am about to get the half moon shaped spreader washers under the rocker bolts re-nickle plated. I have some extras so will get these done too, I will therefore have an additional 15 shiny spares. If somebody wants them let me know. Or if somebody has 1 spare (of the striaghter variety) and could send it to me before Monday/Tuesday (when I take them to the plater's) I will have a full set of 16 going free (first dabs to whoever sends a spare).
Tony
Edited by TonupS2 on Thursday 2nd September 16:26
tvrgit said:
Then you need to remove the alternator - disconnect battery, disconnect both alternator cables ( do NOT do this while battery is connected!) loosen pulley bolt, take off fan belt, then take off alternator complete with bracket - 2 13mm bolts under the front, 1 19mm bolt behind no 1 spark plug.
Didnt have to do any of the above, just manourvered the covers carefullyNorman
When I did mine I didn't tighten them enough but its fairly obvious as smoke starts billowing out from the bonnet as oil hits the exhaust manifold! a nip tighter than that and they sealed fine. I have a torque wrench that has a scale of 10-80Nm and I think 10 would be too much.
They don't need to be tight though. If you snap a bolt its too tight...not that I've done that you understand

They don't need to be tight though. If you snap a bolt its too tight...not that I've done that you understand


orange_dodo said:
When I did mine I didn't tighten them enough but its fairly obvious as smoke starts billowing out from the bonnet as oil hits the exhaust manifold! a nip tighter than that and they sealed fine. I have a torque wrench that has a scale of 10-80Nm and I think 10 would be too much.
They don't need to be tight though. If you snap a bolt its too tight...not that I've done that you understand

They don't need to be tight though. If you snap a bolt its too tight...not that I've done that you understand













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