Leaks, leaks everywhere!
Discussion
I'm having a few problems with leaks since I found out about them driving through the torrential rain after TiTT4 this year.
I have 3 major leaks:
1. Above the drivers footwell, this causes a LOT of water to run down the steering column and onto the clutch pedal/my foot! After TiTT4 there was an inch of water in the footwell.
I've half fixed this by removing and resealing the hole in the bulkhead that the heater wire and a couple of electrical wires went through. It now leaks less but there is still something leaking, I think through the bolt holes that hold the brake compensator thingy in. Any ideas on how to seal that would be welcome.
Oh and I have sealed the windscreen edge with Captain Trolley's Creepin' Crack Cure (thanks Tvrgit!) so that is now waterproof.
2. All around the stitching for the rear screen. No idea how to seal this at all.
3. The drivers door doesn't seal against the frame so I get a stream of water coming in in the rain. See pictures below.
This is how the door sits, there is a gap at the top of the window but also the metal frame is about 5mm from the inner door seal.
This is where it should sit after I put some pressure on it.
Thanks all,
Tom
I have 3 major leaks:
1. Above the drivers footwell, this causes a LOT of water to run down the steering column and onto the clutch pedal/my foot! After TiTT4 there was an inch of water in the footwell.
I've half fixed this by removing and resealing the hole in the bulkhead that the heater wire and a couple of electrical wires went through. It now leaks less but there is still something leaking, I think through the bolt holes that hold the brake compensator thingy in. Any ideas on how to seal that would be welcome.
Oh and I have sealed the windscreen edge with Captain Trolley's Creepin' Crack Cure (thanks Tvrgit!) so that is now waterproof.
2. All around the stitching for the rear screen. No idea how to seal this at all.
3. The drivers door doesn't seal against the frame so I get a stream of water coming in in the rain. See pictures below.
This is how the door sits, there is a gap at the top of the window but also the metal frame is about 5mm from the inner door seal.
This is where it should sit after I put some pressure on it.
Thanks all,
Tom
, it n reverse order !
3. the accepted way to adjust a leaking door back when I was in the trade was to sit in the car sort of sideways, knees stop door shutting and "gently" pull on the top of door/quarter light till it bends a little (you won't notice it , just try a bit, if not enough a bit more and so on). works with metal doors, not tried it with fibreglass ?
2. Various hood treatments on the market or try camping/caravan shops.
1. Undo mounting nuts, lift it a little, good squirt of silicone sealant or Sikaflex or instant gasket around studs and tighten up before it sets.
HTH Mike.
3. the accepted way to adjust a leaking door back when I was in the trade was to sit in the car sort of sideways, knees stop door shutting and "gently" pull on the top of door/quarter light till it bends a little (you won't notice it , just try a bit, if not enough a bit more and so on). works with metal doors, not tried it with fibreglass ?
2. Various hood treatments on the market or try camping/caravan shops.
1. Undo mounting nuts, lift it a little, good squirt of silicone sealant or Sikaflex or instant gasket around studs and tighten up before it sets.
HTH Mike.
Does look like your glass aint square, and could go up a bit more. Done mine ages ago, but can't remember how. Someone will be along to explain.
Anything that goes through the bulkhead should be sealed again, as the old tvr sealing will fail (Worse after 20 odd years, than when new lol) without fail.
There are also some rubber gromets in the footwell, i'd seal round these as well as the seat mounting bolts. TVRs use more sealant than petrol, it's a fact. Glad i'm in the glazing industry, and get mmine free.
Anything that goes through the bulkhead should be sealed again, as the old tvr sealing will fail (Worse after 20 odd years, than when new lol) without fail.
There are also some rubber gromets in the footwell, i'd seal round these as well as the seat mounting bolts. TVRs use more sealant than petrol, it's a fact. Glad i'm in the glazing industry, and get mmine free.
orange_dodo said:
1. Above the drivers footwell, this causes a LOT of water to run down the steering column and onto the clutch pedal/my foot! After TiTT4 there was an inch of water in the footwell.
I had this a few years ago. It was water seeping through the wiper spindle holes (it doesn't help that these are located in wells that collect the water). They probably need resealing. orange_dodo said:
2. All around the stitching for the rear screen. No idea how to seal this at all.
Fabsil or Thompsons waterseal.
Hmm, maybe a bit of adjusment on the door hinge? mine leaked at the leading edge of the door window frame, all I did was put a strip of rubber on the door frame so it butts up against the seal on the car. A good impact adhesive did the job, bingo, no more leaks. Bulkhead; seal wherever you can find a grommet, also look at the two large bolts just under the bonnet by the pedal box, I believe they hold the pedal box in place, they may need sealing too. 
hope this helps.
hope this helps.Thanks for all the ideas!
I'll try out the Thompsons/Fabsil stuff. That leak doesn't really bother me but I dont want the fabric going mouldy. It doesn't help the water collects in the fold of fabric between the rear body and the roof.
I discovered on a little check this morning that the 2 screws holding the inner side of the metal window quarterlight guide thingy aren't actually screwed into anything, they are just loose so my glass the holes up with some wood behind them and re attach so see where that gets me. I like the rubber strip idea too. Hopefully I can get the frame to touch the seal by adjusting it though.
Also had a good look at all the bolts penetrating the bulkhead around and above the footwell and I think a lot of them could do with replacing/cleaning up as they are all pretty rusty so I'll do that and waterproof them at the same time.
Just about to make some calls to see if I can rent a garage for it which should give me somewhere dry to work on the thing.
Oh and I have no idea why that second picture is upside-down, its the right way up on my computer!
I'll try out the Thompsons/Fabsil stuff. That leak doesn't really bother me but I dont want the fabric going mouldy. It doesn't help the water collects in the fold of fabric between the rear body and the roof.
I discovered on a little check this morning that the 2 screws holding the inner side of the metal window quarterlight guide thingy aren't actually screwed into anything, they are just loose so my glass the holes up with some wood behind them and re attach so see where that gets me. I like the rubber strip idea too. Hopefully I can get the frame to touch the seal by adjusting it though.
Also had a good look at all the bolts penetrating the bulkhead around and above the footwell and I think a lot of them could do with replacing/cleaning up as they are all pretty rusty so I'll do that and waterproof them at the same time.
Just about to make some calls to see if I can rent a garage for it which should give me somewhere dry to work on the thing.
Oh and I have no idea why that second picture is upside-down, its the right way up on my computer!
My quarterlight frame at the front where it finishes down by the top hinge is now fastened to the door by 1/4 inch countersunk bolts through the door a washer and stiff nut, aerospace grade of course 
the original self tapping screws being inadequate for the job. I got sick of self tapping screws into fibreglass, smacks of Reliant 
the original self tapping screws being inadequate for the job. I got sick of self tapping screws into fibreglass, smacks of Reliant HA this thread is funny, I was going to post exactly the same thread myself this evening but you've beaten me to it and with pics too.
I have tried replacing the rubber seal along the roof edge which contacts the glass, the one I got was from TVRcarparts and has a metal channel with the rubber sliding into a groove (aparently this system was used on the griff and chimera). Unfort it's still left the gap at the quarterlight area in the picture.
On a slightly different subject I've managed to cure the leaking windscreen cure with "Captain Tulleys creeping crack cure" sounds dodgy but its great stuff!
I have tried replacing the rubber seal along the roof edge which contacts the glass, the one I got was from TVRcarparts and has a metal channel with the rubber sliding into a groove (aparently this system was used on the griff and chimera). Unfort it's still left the gap at the quarterlight area in the picture.
On a slightly different subject I've managed to cure the leaking windscreen cure with "Captain Tulleys creeping crack cure" sounds dodgy but its great stuff!
orange_dodo said:
Just about to make some calls to see if I can rent a garage for it which should give me somewhere dry to work on the thing.
Good luck with finding a garage, in my (limited) experience of such places they are usually not too generous space wise i.e. not enough room to work on car in them, barely enough width to open door and get out !And no electric ( no such thing as "cordless drills" ) back when I rented.
Maybe, hopefully things have changed ?
steve j said:
My quarterlight frame at the front where it finishes down by the top hinge is now fastened to the door by 1/4 inch countersunk bolts through the door a washer and stiff nut, aerospace grade of course the original self tapping screws being inadequate for the job. I got sick of self tapping screws into fibreglass, smacks of Reliant
Ahhhh bolts...that may be an easier and better way of doing things. May have to go for bog standard as opposed to aero grade though! the original self tapping screws being inadequate for the job. I got sick of self tapping screws into fibreglass, smacks of Reliant JT said:
HA this thread is funny, I was going to post exactly the same thread myself this evening but you've beaten me to it and with pics too.
I have tried replacing the rubber seal along the roof edge which contacts the glass, the one I got was from TVRcarparts and has a metal channel with the rubber sliding into a groove (aparently this system was used on the griff and chimera). Unfort it's still left the gap at the quarterlight area in the picture.
On a slightly different subject I've managed to cure the leaking windscreen cure with "Captain Tulleys creeping crack cure" sounds dodgy but its great stuff!
Well it's an S, they aren't renowned for their water tight qualities!I have tried replacing the rubber seal along the roof edge which contacts the glass, the one I got was from TVRcarparts and has a metal channel with the rubber sliding into a groove (aparently this system was used on the griff and chimera). Unfort it's still left the gap at the quarterlight area in the picture.
On a slightly different subject I've managed to cure the leaking windscreen cure with "Captain Tulleys creeping crack cure" sounds dodgy but its great stuff!
I used the creeping crack cure too, great stuff. I'll have to try some on the wiper spindles too to see if they are a leak.
orange_dodo said:
I used the creeping crack cure too, great stuff. I'll have to try some on the wiper spindles too to see if they are a leak.
On mine, it was the wiper spindles that put up the most resistance - I used gallons of that bloody stuff, then when I went round a corner it was dripping off the back of dashboard, where most of it had run down and accumulated, onto my knees. Car is now watertight though! Less so, my explanation for the stains on my trousers, I don't think she believed me...
phillpot said:
orange_dodo said:
Just about to make some calls to see if I can rent a garage for it which should give me somewhere dry to work on the thing.
Good luck with finding a garage, in my (limited) experience of such places they are usually not too generous space wise i.e. not enough room to work on car in them, barely enough width to open door and get out !And no electric ( no such thing as "cordless drills" ) back when I rented.
Maybe, hopefully things have changed ?
Only problem is it's 4 miles away so it's a bit of a walk if I don't want to leave my other car there when I take the S out.
orange_dodo said:
steve j said:
My quarterlight frame at the front where it finishes down by the top hinge is now fastened to the door by 1/4 inch countersunk bolts through the door a washer and stiff nut, aerospace grade of course the original self tapping screws being inadequate for the job. I got sick of self tapping screws into fibreglass, smacks of Reliant
Ahhhh bolts...that may be an easier and better way of doing things. May have to go for bog standard as opposed to aero grade though! the original self tapping screws being inadequate for the job. I got sick of self tapping screws into fibreglass, smacks of Reliant JT said:
HA this thread is funny, I was going to post exactly the same thread myself this evening but you've beaten me to it and with pics too.
I have tried replacing the rubber seal along the roof edge which contacts the glass, the one I got was from TVRcarparts and has a metal channel with the rubber sliding into a groove (aparently this system was used on the griff and chimera). Unfort it's still left the gap at the quarterlight area in the picture.
On a slightly different subject I've managed to cure the leaking windscreen cure with "Captain Tulleys creeping crack cure" sounds dodgy but its great stuff!
Well it's an S, they aren't renowned for their water tight qualities!I have tried replacing the rubber seal along the roof edge which contacts the glass, the one I got was from TVRcarparts and has a metal channel with the rubber sliding into a groove (aparently this system was used on the griff and chimera). Unfort it's still left the gap at the quarterlight area in the picture.
On a slightly different subject I've managed to cure the leaking windscreen cure with "Captain Tulleys creeping crack cure" sounds dodgy but its great stuff!
I used the creeping crack cure too, great stuff. I'll have to try some on the wiper spindles too to see if they are a leak.
phillpot said:
tvrgit said:
Only problem is it's 4 miles away so it's a bit of a walk if I don't want to leave my other car there when I take the S out.
Sounds good, if S is safe there don't know why you wouldn't want to leave other car there but why not get a push bike !! 
steve j said:
Hey Tom, your profile says you`re an engineer marine/aero, where do you work?
I should probably change that now actually. I did a degree in Aerospace Engineering but ended up working as a marine engineer (including for the RNLI for a bit which was fun). Now I work as a computer modeller for a science/engineering consultancytvrgit said:
Well for example I might want to bring the S here to use in the evenings but still have the "day car" for mundane stuff like getting to work...
I thought about that approach after reading your exploits on your website but unfortunately there aren't many farms near the middle of Southampton! I'm currently using SWMBOs car for the daily slog as she is a nurse so doesn't need it that much. Don't half get whined at when she does want the car though. She always wants to know why I'm not using my car. That's pretty much the reason why I want it waterproof(ish) so I don't get soggy if I have to take the S to work in the rain.
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