ARB Drop Link Length
Discussion
Opinion of the sages required here...
How critical is the length of the Drop Links ? mine are standard TVR and are 104 mm between centres... I have an alternative which is 110mm without any modifications and my feel is that the 6mm wont matter in the general geometry and function of the link ?
what do you think ?
if its a go'er, I'll share the details of the alternative on here...
K
How critical is the length of the Drop Links ? mine are standard TVR and are 104 mm between centres... I have an alternative which is 110mm without any modifications and my feel is that the 6mm wont matter in the general geometry and function of the link ?
what do you think ?
if its a go'er, I'll share the details of the alternative on here...
K
mep12345 said:
I have just fitted Steve H's rose jointed drop links and his set up instructions, which can be downloaded here, just say the length must match either side. Mine seemed to stiffen the car up and reduce body roll - but that could just be wishful thinking
HTH
Mark
I doubt it's wishful thinking — that is exactly what they are designed to do. The main problem with the original design is the fact they use rubber bushes and the ARB spends most of it time compressing the rubber rather than actually applying the corrective force. HTH
Mark
Edited by shpub on Monday 8th February 19:05
ketvrin said:
have now replaced all suspension/ARB and wishbone bushes, brake pipes, filters, gearbox and engine mounts, steering rack, ball joints and track-rod ends plus new coolant hoses of the black and smelly variety. I just need some decent weather so I can get the chassis cleaned up and I can start bunging all the bits back on and get it set up for April fools day
K
You haven't done much then, get your finger out mate K
. Never been in the garage this winter apart from plugging in the optimate in, loads to do(mostly on the M) can't get going this year. ketvrin said:
["coolant hoses of the black and smelly variety."
K
Talking about black and smelly things, a new large puppy in the house has kept me busy last few weeks so i have an excuse, he's in training to be co-pilot this year. K
You about at home this week or next Kev - might get myself out for a bit.
Ian
shpub said:
mep12345 said:
I have just fitted Steve H's rose jointed drop links and his set up instructions, which can be downloaded here, just say the length must match either side. Mine seemed to stiffen the car up and reduce body roll - but that could just be wishful thinking
HTH
Mark
I doubt it's wishful thinking — that is exactly what they are designed to do. The main problem with the original design is the fact they use rubber bushes and the ARB spends most of it time compressing the rubber rather than actually applying the corrective force. HTH
Mark
Edited by shpub on Monday 8th February 19:05
OK for the princely sum of £27.00 the pair...
what you see here (for each side) is
two 12mm Rose Joints
two M12 half(thin) nuts one length of M12 steel rod,
one 12mm 10.9 alloy HT shoulder bolt with M10 thread and self locking nut. (the rose joint is 12mm but the wishbone mounting hole is 10mm and I didnt want to drill it out to 12 - I could have used a 12mm bolt)
various washers and spacers and an R pin.
The ARB end was actually 12.4mm dia on mine so had to be reduced to 12.0 to closely fit the female rose joint. The black you see in the top picture is heat shrink to keep the grime off the nuts etc.
McGills Motorsport supplied the rose joints etc
Its probabbly not as pretty as Steve Heaths excellent product but I just wanted to see what I could do...
HTH
K
ETA second picture and some detail
what you see here (for each side) is
two 12mm Rose Joints
two M12 half(thin) nuts one length of M12 steel rod,
one 12mm 10.9 alloy HT shoulder bolt with M10 thread and self locking nut. (the rose joint is 12mm but the wishbone mounting hole is 10mm and I didnt want to drill it out to 12 - I could have used a 12mm bolt)
various washers and spacers and an R pin.
The ARB end was actually 12.4mm dia on mine so had to be reduced to 12.0 to closely fit the female rose joint. The black you see in the top picture is heat shrink to keep the grime off the nuts etc.
McGills Motorsport supplied the rose joints etc
Its probabbly not as pretty as Steve Heaths excellent product but I just wanted to see what I could do...
HTH
K
ETA second picture and some detail
Edited by ketvrin on Wednesday 28th April 18:29
Hi Tony
yes they are a success, they do what was aimed for and stiffen the whole thing up. worth every penny spent.
one thing to watch (and its important) is the available diameters of the rose joints and the diameter of your ARB (the end bit obviously)as you cannot afford any free-play here, they must be bang on as they are metal to metal...
I'm actually selling my old ones on fleabay at this very moment... I have no idea what the buyer will do with them but thats up to him as they are being sold as worn out... maybe he has a source of poly bushes to fit ?
K ;¬)
yes they are a success, they do what was aimed for and stiffen the whole thing up. worth every penny spent.
one thing to watch (and its important) is the available diameters of the rose joints and the diameter of your ARB (the end bit obviously)as you cannot afford any free-play here, they must be bang on as they are metal to metal...
I'm actually selling my old ones on fleabay at this very moment... I have no idea what the buyer will do with them but thats up to him as they are being sold as worn out... maybe he has a source of poly bushes to fit ?
K ;¬)
Thanks!
I debated whether to go to 1/2 inch rod ends but the arb is just undersized and would give play once cleaned up - so I will have to reduce to 12mm with care. I'll probably open up the hole in the bottom wishbone to 12mm as the chances of reverting to standard links is pretty remote. (Although I see that McGills to offer a 12 to 10mm joint reducer).
Cheers
Tony
I debated whether to go to 1/2 inch rod ends but the arb is just undersized and would give play once cleaned up - so I will have to reduce to 12mm with care. I'll probably open up the hole in the bottom wishbone to 12mm as the chances of reverting to standard links is pretty remote. (Although I see that McGills to offer a 12 to 10mm joint reducer).
Cheers
Tony
Yes I debated but ended up going with a shoulder bolt of 12mm (shoulder is a ground finish so spot on for rose joint) with a 10mm thread, works fine.
the ARB was as you say reduced to 12mm with extreme care, I think mine was 12.4 when I started. I just did the end part (cant remember the length now but enough to get the rose joint on with a washer before the R-Pin. theory being I could always revert to using the remaining original dia portion if things turned brown and smelly - they didnt...
K
the ARB was as you say reduced to 12mm with extreme care, I think mine was 12.4 when I started. I just did the end part (cant remember the length now but enough to get the rose joint on with a washer before the R-Pin. theory being I could always revert to using the remaining original dia portion if things turned brown and smelly - they didnt...
K
TurboTony said:
I thought about the shoulder bolt - very neat but I'm not sure of the length needed or where to obtain, if you can give me an idea.
Norman:
Are those arb links or pieces of modern art? They do look great!!
Cheers
Tony
I used a 10mm and a 12mm rose joint so no shoulder thread and the 12 was left handed to make adjustable on the car. My tame fabricator machined the links in stainless but no one was interested when I offered them in the forum!!Norman:
Are those arb links or pieces of modern art? They do look great!!
Cheers
Tony
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