Just bought my first TVR S3
Discussion
Just bought my first TVR S3...
After 100 magical miles driving it home (with another 60 still to do!) the temperature gauge went into the red with resultant steam coming from under the bonnet.
Friendly AA man thinks it's either the water pump or the head gasket(s) - both of which I know the previous owner had done recently! As there didn't appear to be any loss of power during the journey - and the fact that the temperature rise was sudden - I'm hoping it's the water pump! Oh the joys of TVR ownership!
Anyway, I'm looking for advice from any of you guys in or around the Newport (South Wales) area - any recommendations for a garage to look at the car?
Thanks in advance
Dave
After 100 magical miles driving it home (with another 60 still to do!) the temperature gauge went into the red with resultant steam coming from under the bonnet.
Friendly AA man thinks it's either the water pump or the head gasket(s) - both of which I know the previous owner had done recently! As there didn't appear to be any loss of power during the journey - and the fact that the temperature rise was sudden - I'm hoping it's the water pump! Oh the joys of TVR ownership!
Anyway, I'm looking for advice from any of you guys in or around the Newport (South Wales) area - any recommendations for a garage to look at the car?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Dave
Assuming it's not the normal "which cap goes where?" problem, the chances are that, if it happened while you were moving, it's the pump. Could also be the thermostat sticking shut. Also, have you checked for leaks all over the system? (Radiator seams, hose connections, etc).
If you were stopped at the time, it could be the fans not cutting in.
I see you're from Scotland but currently resident in Wales - see and drop by the Central Scotland club if you're around this way, we have a regular 6 or 7 S owners in this area who would like to see your car! Oh and you as well (obviously!)
Assuming it's not the normal "which cap goes where?" problem, the chances are that, if it happened while you were moving, it's the pump. Could also be the thermostat sticking shut. Also, have you checked for leaks all over the system? (Radiator seams, hose connections, etc).
If you were stopped at the time, it could be the fans not cutting in.
I see you're from Scotland but currently resident in Wales - see and drop by the Central Scotland club if you're around this way, we have a regular 6 or 7 S owners in this area who would like to see your car! Oh and you as well (obviously!)
Hi Dave.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. The AA man should be able to give a reasonable diagnosis (an engines an engine) so presume he had his reasons for diagnosing a pump or head gasket. However, I would suggest some basic checks before jumping in too far.
If it has lost water with no obvious leaks, a coolant pressure test can be done by any garage providing you can get the car there, to rule out any leaks which may be difficult to find, unless you know someone with a pressure tester who can help?
If head gasket, is there any signs of excessive water from the exhausts? A cylinder compression test my provide a clue as to what has happened and is easy to do? If it has recently had head gaskets, I wonder if a warped head was missed previously? There could be any number of reasons as have previously been mentioned (fans, thermostat etc) but it may not be the end of the world!
If you suspect a head or gasket problem, I came across an additive which has proven useful on a couple of occasions "K seal" You add it to the coolant and run the engine. If your symptoms go then you have an idea where to look and it may keep you on the road for a while. My Freelander cracked its head and K seal kept me running for a couple of months until I got all the parts together to sort it out. Don't know how long it would have lasted but did not want to take the chance.
Hope this helps?
Stew
Sorry to hear of your troubles. The AA man should be able to give a reasonable diagnosis (an engines an engine) so presume he had his reasons for diagnosing a pump or head gasket. However, I would suggest some basic checks before jumping in too far.
If it has lost water with no obvious leaks, a coolant pressure test can be done by any garage providing you can get the car there, to rule out any leaks which may be difficult to find, unless you know someone with a pressure tester who can help?
If head gasket, is there any signs of excessive water from the exhausts? A cylinder compression test my provide a clue as to what has happened and is easy to do? If it has recently had head gaskets, I wonder if a warped head was missed previously? There could be any number of reasons as have previously been mentioned (fans, thermostat etc) but it may not be the end of the world!
If you suspect a head or gasket problem, I came across an additive which has proven useful on a couple of occasions "K seal" You add it to the coolant and run the engine. If your symptoms go then you have an idea where to look and it may keep you on the road for a while. My Freelander cracked its head and K seal kept me running for a couple of months until I got all the parts together to sort it out. Don't know how long it would have lasted but did not want to take the chance.
Hope this helps?
Stew
Hi, welcome and sorry you've had a bad start to your "TVR Experience"
Water pumps are pretty basic things, unless water is pissing out through the shaft seal behind the pulley not a lot else to go wrong but there are an awful lot more places that can leak, hoses, rad, swirl pot etc.
Fords V6 is fairly bullit proof, not prone to head gasket problems, but if recent repairs were not done properly, new bolts and tightened correctly, that could be your problem?
Hope you get it sorted soon and without too much expense
Water pumps are pretty basic things, unless water is pissing out through the shaft seal behind the pulley not a lot else to go wrong but there are an awful lot more places that can leak, hoses, rad, swirl pot etc.
Fords V6 is fairly bullit proof, not prone to head gasket problems, but if recent repairs were not done properly, new bolts and tightened correctly, that could be your problem?
Hope you get it sorted soon and without too much expense
Hi all. This was my car, so I can give a bit of detail of past work.
The car has been regularly serviced, by Tower View, Austec and Str8six.
Both head-gaskets were done in October 2007 by Tower View. They weren't bad (apparently) but were done as a preventative measure whilst the new ACT manifolds were being fitted.
I had an overheat while at Zolder in June 2008. The water pump had failed. I had the water pump replaced, along with the fan switch and thermostat. I also had it pressure tested and all was fine. I had further teething issues (fixed by replacing a suspect swirl cap along with a lower hose and clip) and all has been well since August 08.
Recently (May 09) I had a full 12,000 mile service done at str8six. They found a small leak in the radiator, which was fixed.
Over my 6 years of ownership it has been a brilliant car. I hope Dave can get it sorted quickly and cheaply.
The car has been regularly serviced, by Tower View, Austec and Str8six.
Both head-gaskets were done in October 2007 by Tower View. They weren't bad (apparently) but were done as a preventative measure whilst the new ACT manifolds were being fitted.
I had an overheat while at Zolder in June 2008. The water pump had failed. I had the water pump replaced, along with the fan switch and thermostat. I also had it pressure tested and all was fine. I had further teething issues (fixed by replacing a suspect swirl cap along with a lower hose and clip) and all has been well since August 08.
Recently (May 09) I had a full 12,000 mile service done at str8six. They found a small leak in the radiator, which was fixed.
Over my 6 years of ownership it has been a brilliant car. I hope Dave can get it sorted quickly and cheaply.
page3 said:
Hi all. This was my car, so I can give a bit of detail of past work.
Hello all, thankyou for the warm welcomes. Hello Adam, please don't worry about what's happened. I would much rather have your car with one small problem than another with unknown history and pedigree!
I'm reassured by the comments that lead me to think it may indeed be the water pump and not the head gaskets.
I'm still a bit out of my depth down here in deep dark Wales, so any pointers about garages from local S owners would be much appreciated.
Dave
This might help:
http://www.tvrcc-south-wales.co.uk/Infopages.asp
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to recommend somewhere...
http://www.tvrcc-south-wales.co.uk/Infopages.asp
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to recommend somewhere...
page3 said:
This might help:
http://www.tvrcc-south-wales.co.uk/Infopages.asp
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to recommend somewhere...
Thanks for the link Adam, I'd actually got Roath Garage's number from a guy at work so am waiting to here back from them...http://www.tvrcc-south-wales.co.uk/Infopages.asp
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to recommend somewhere...
Any other recommendations gratefully received...
Dave
Sometimes if you over fill the swirlpot it will overflow !
Kept doing this on mine for the first 6 months of ownership until i realised what the correct level was.
Seems each car is different but my water level sits correctly about 4 inches from the top of the swirlpot.
Any higher then it steams up. Also agree you have to bleed the rad to.
For me Step one is to bleed the rad whilst the engine is on as you fill up at the swirlpot.
Step two - dont overfill the swirlpot.
Then take it for a drive round the block (very near you home !!)
Just far enough to see if it goes into the red (and hopefully at this pointthe fan will cut in) or blows up again.
If nothing happens then your fixed but if it steams up call a garage !Best of luck !
Kept doing this on mine for the first 6 months of ownership until i realised what the correct level was.
Seems each car is different but my water level sits correctly about 4 inches from the top of the swirlpot.
Any higher then it steams up. Also agree you have to bleed the rad to.
For me Step one is to bleed the rad whilst the engine is on as you fill up at the swirlpot.
Step two - dont overfill the swirlpot.
Then take it for a drive round the block (very near you home !!)
Just far enough to see if it goes into the red (and hopefully at this pointthe fan will cut in) or blows up again.
If nothing happens then your fixed but if it steams up call a garage !Best of luck !
Edited by Mr Clifford on Saturday 19th December 21:20
Mr Clifford
Check the cap on the swirl pot, if its the pressure type ie with seal and spring check it allows 'tidal flow' back from expansion tank. If not as the water expands it throws out the excess and cant pull it bacl from expansion tank thereby allowing air into the system.
As an experiment put the non pressure cap ie without spring on the swirl potand the pressure cap on expansion tank and monitor water levels, I bet the swirl pot stays full
Norman
Check the cap on the swirl pot, if its the pressure type ie with seal and spring check it allows 'tidal flow' back from expansion tank. If not as the water expands it throws out the excess and cant pull it bacl from expansion tank thereby allowing air into the system.
As an experiment put the non pressure cap ie without spring on the swirl potand the pressure cap on expansion tank and monitor water levels, I bet the swirl pot stays full
Norman
The comments about other possible reasons for your problem are valid so have a good look at the water pump and see if there is any play on the shaft as generally when the pump goes it loses water which then washes the grease from the bearings which then collapse hence the slow leak start and final gush which generally happens. If the pump seems to be OK try refilling the system and give it another go after carefully bleeding the air out.
If you aren't sure about this - to refill the system put the heater control on hot then fill into the swirl pot leaving the radiator bleed screw (top n/s of rad I think) open until water (with antifreeze naturally!) comes out of the top (not just a little dribble let it run for a few seconds to make sure it takes any remaining air with it) then tighten the bleed valve (finger tight is all it needs) and fill the swirl pot to the top whilst squeezing the hoses nearby to help with air removal. Then with the swirl pot cap off start the car and let it warm a little revving gently; air will come out so when this stops with it still revving a little (the water level drops when you do this) top it up and then put on the pressure cap (having made sure there is a rubber washer under it - make one from an old inner tube or similar - as the metal to metal contact doesn't seal completely and you will slowly lose water); then ensure the header tank is at least half full leave it to warm up until the fan comes on revving every now and then, to help to remove air, then switch off and leave to cool completely. Take the cap off the swirl pot then top that up and check the header is about half full (any over what you need will be blown out OK when it gets hot but you need enough in it so when the engine next cools down it will suck back coolant rather than air). That should be all you need to do but there may still be a little air in the system which will hopefully come out via the swirl pot so keep checking the swirl pot is full when cold until you don't have to top up again then just maintain the level in the header tank.
Phew! Sorry for the long winded version but it may help - so good luck with sorting it and enjoy!
Jim
If you aren't sure about this - to refill the system put the heater control on hot then fill into the swirl pot leaving the radiator bleed screw (top n/s of rad I think) open until water (with antifreeze naturally!) comes out of the top (not just a little dribble let it run for a few seconds to make sure it takes any remaining air with it) then tighten the bleed valve (finger tight is all it needs) and fill the swirl pot to the top whilst squeezing the hoses nearby to help with air removal. Then with the swirl pot cap off start the car and let it warm a little revving gently; air will come out so when this stops with it still revving a little (the water level drops when you do this) top it up and then put on the pressure cap (having made sure there is a rubber washer under it - make one from an old inner tube or similar - as the metal to metal contact doesn't seal completely and you will slowly lose water); then ensure the header tank is at least half full leave it to warm up until the fan comes on revving every now and then, to help to remove air, then switch off and leave to cool completely. Take the cap off the swirl pot then top that up and check the header is about half full (any over what you need will be blown out OK when it gets hot but you need enough in it so when the engine next cools down it will suck back coolant rather than air). That should be all you need to do but there may still be a little air in the system which will hopefully come out via the swirl pot so keep checking the swirl pot is full when cold until you don't have to top up again then just maintain the level in the header tank.
Phew! Sorry for the long winded version but it may help - so good luck with sorting it and enjoy!
Jim
Gerald-TVR said:
Mr Clifford
Check the cap on the swirl pot, if its the pressure type ie with seal and spring check it allows 'tidal flow' back from expansion tank. If not as the water expands it throws out the excess and cant pull it bacl from expansion tank thereby allowing air into the system.
As an experiment put the non pressure cap ie without spring on the swirl potand the pressure cap on expansion tank and monitor water levels, I bet the swirl pot stays full
Norman
Hi NormanCheck the cap on the swirl pot, if its the pressure type ie with seal and spring check it allows 'tidal flow' back from expansion tank. If not as the water expands it throws out the excess and cant pull it bacl from expansion tank thereby allowing air into the system.
As an experiment put the non pressure cap ie without spring on the swirl potand the pressure cap on expansion tank and monitor water levels, I bet the swirl pot stays full
Norman
My problem was 4 years ago. Water level has been fine since.
Cheers Adrian.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff