Clutch(?) Drama - Act 3
Discussion
The engine came out of the V8S on Saturday - the gearbox remains in situ. Surprisingly there's nothing apparently wrong with the clutch assembly, the fork or release bearing, save for a little wear and tear so I still can't understand why I had the "solid" clutch pedal with no travel whatsoever - bearing in mind the master and slave cylinders both appeared to work OK when taken off the car. Perhaps you were right after all Johno - the angle of attack of the arm into the master itself may have been the problem and it temporarily got stuck. I'm going to replace ALL the clutch components in their entirity anyway. Incidently the clutch plate is an AP item - anyone know if this is OE on the V8S? Also whipped off the heads and appeared to have caught a potential blown head gasket on the left bank in its early stages - may have saved me some money in the long run. I haven't got round to removing the cam yet, although on first sight one of the lobes in particular is so badly worn down it's hardly surprising I had a clattering top end! Unfortunately having an empty engine bay has exposed many areas of the chassis and suspension that are going to need some work too! Will keep you posted.
Keep us in the picture, quite literally if you have a digital camera, as this may be something I carry out over next winter.
Incidentally what mileage does the engine have, as when I was looking at the V8’s there didn't seem to be a direct link between cam/engine condition and mileage (more to do with driving styles and oil changes IMHO). However I have heard said that 80K is about tops for a cam, even if has had a gentle life.
Good luck, I/we look forward to a Jono style daily update!
Harry
Incidentally what mileage does the engine have, as when I was looking at the V8’s there didn't seem to be a direct link between cam/engine condition and mileage (more to do with driving styles and oil changes IMHO). However I have heard said that 80K is about tops for a cam, even if has had a gentle life.
Good luck, I/we look forward to a Jono style daily update!
Harry
I'm experiencing something similar with my S3 - The pedal is completely solid and the fluid looks a bit low. I'd noticed that the pedal 'clunked' on a couple of occasions recently when it was depressed. It seems like either the piston in the master cylinder has siezed, something has come adrift or maybe as you say the angle of the rod has somehow shifted. As far as I know the master cylinder is the same on both the V8 and the S3 so if you've found the cause can you let me know.
I suppose the first thing will be master cylinder off so if I see anything obvious I'll post it up.
I suppose the first thing will be master cylinder off so if I see anything obvious I'll post it up.
quote:
I'm experiencing something similar with my S3 - The pedal is completely solid and the fluid looks a bit low. I'd noticed that the pedal 'clunked' on a couple of occasions recently when it was depressed. It seems like either the piston in the master cylinder has siezed, something has come adrift or maybe as you say the angle of the rod has somehow shifted. As far as I know the master cylinder is the same on both the V8 and the S3 so if you've found the cause can you let me know.
I suppose the first thing will be master cylinder off so if I see anything obvious I'll post it up.
Would it not be easier to put a bowl or container under the car to catch the fluid, then undo the clutch pipe on the slave cylinder and attatch a bleed pipe to direct the fluid into the bowl, then try the pedal again. If the fluid comes through and the pedal goes all the way down with ease, then the master cylinders ok and you've proved it's the slave cylinder thats jammed. If the pedal doesnt go down then it has to be the master cylinder as with the clutch pipe off there should be no resistance to stop the pedal going down.
Just a thought, as they arent the easiest of bits to come off (Esp the slave!) and at least this way you should be able to dianose which end the problem is without ending up taking both bit off.
Cheers,
Dave.
>> Edited by Dave_H on Friday 22 March 19:14
I did as you suggested Dave prior to deciding to lift the engine out - no problems at all. Then had the slave off and no probs apparent with that either. Im going to replace everything anyway as I said in my earlier post. btw - anyone know the source car(s) for the clutch master and slave for the V8S?
According to the S bible the master cylinder is TVR specific (the same for all S's) - I'm not sure about the slave but if anyone knows I'd be interested as I think mine needs replacing/overhauling. I've had a closer look at mine now. I drained the system and diconnected the pipe from the slave as you suggested Dave and the pedal now moves freely (so I suppose the master is OK). The slave appears to be jammed in the fully extended position so the clutch is disengaged - I presume the slave has therefore failed otherwise its a problem with the internal release gear. The problem now is getting the slave off under tension - because its fully extended the fork is pushing hard against it.
The Slave is the worst one to get off.
I found I had to undo the adjustment of the pushrod that meets the fork to get the slave cylinder off. It's worth counting the number of threads either side of the nuts on the pushrod, so when you re-assemble you've got a rough guide as to where it was set to - should save on the final re-adjustment time.
I don't think it's that much to buy (think I heard it's around £40) so as it's a pain to take off, I'd say it's worth replacing it rather than rebuilding it.
Cheers,
Dave.
>> Edited by Dave_H on Monday 25th March 18:38
I found I had to undo the adjustment of the pushrod that meets the fork to get the slave cylinder off. It's worth counting the number of threads either side of the nuts on the pushrod, so when you re-assemble you've got a rough guide as to where it was set to - should save on the final re-adjustment time.
I don't think it's that much to buy (think I heard it's around £40) so as it's a pain to take off, I'd say it's worth replacing it rather than rebuilding it.
Cheers,
Dave.
>> Edited by Dave_H on Monday 25th March 18:38
Undo the pipe from the slave cylinder and move it out of the way, pull off the rubber dust shield then undo the nut and bolt that holds the slave cylinder bracket to the bellhousing and wiggle (struggle, swear etc) it about, you should then have the lot in your hand which is much easier to fix when off of the car.This is how I changed mine a few weeks ago when my slave cylinder jammed fully open on the S2.
Cheers
LeeBee
Cheers
LeeBee
Thanks - I'll give it a go. You're right about the swearing etc its a real pain to get the whole bracket free and the upper bolt on the slave itself is nogo because its impossible (for me?) to get on to the nut. Where did you source the replacement and what was it - i.e. are the local motor factors likely have it if I take it along for them to match it?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
quote:
Thanks - I'll give it a go. You're right about the swearing etc its a real pain to get the whole bracket free and the upper bolt on the slave itself is nogo because its impossible (for me?) to get on to the nut. Where did you source the replacement and what was it - i.e. are the local motor factors likely have it if I take it along for them to match it?
Thanks for your help.
Lees right, sorry I forgot to mention the swearing bit
The part isnt TVR only, but you may end up spending ages trying to find out what car it's from - Unless someone else here can shed any light?
I't pretty cheap to replace and If you speak to Mark at Tower View (020-8452 6922) He'll sort one out for you.
Cheers,
Dave.
I bought mine from a TVR dealer, it was about £49 inc vat & P+P.I have no idea where it originates from but there was a chap on this list with a 350i who had one for sale (along with an electric fan) a while ago so have a long look back on this list, he was only after about £28 if I remember corectly?
Cheers
LeeBee
Cheers
LeeBee
According to the Pistonheads parts listing for an S (see www.pistonheads.com/tvr/s/parts)the clutch slave cylinder is Lucas part number 74066169 although haven't actually needed to buy one (yet?) so can't confirm. Good Luck
Don't know if its the same as S1, but:
Cheers
Matt
quote:
Replaced the clutch hydraulics on my '87 S1 18 months ago and the parts I used were:-
Master cylinder - Girling 64676310 (£42.89p)
Slave cylinder - Lockheed LB13DC002A (45.24p)
I was told the master cylinder was ex-Morris 1000 (?)
I did have to modify the length of the push rod between
the slave cylinder and the actuating arm to get the clutch action right but it's run fine ever since.
Best of luck.
Chris Page
Cheers
Matt
Finally sorted it today having managed to get the slave cylinder from Partco locally who were really helpful and managed to get it within 24 hours over the holiday weekend. The part no. is GIR PJH144 and it cost £45.50 + vat. Apparently it comes from the Austin black cab.
Thanks to all who helped out with advice etc.
Thanks to all who helped out with advice etc.
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