Petrol Gauge Problems (again...)
Discussion
I have searched archive and looked at all the previous threads on petrol gauge problems and can only conclude that my probelms seem very similar to others so far reported - but there are few solutions?
Basically, the fuel gauge readings are now totally random. Reads empty when known to be more than half full. Fluctuates wildly between half full and empty. Now gauge reads empty for most of the time.
Bought the car TVR S3 nearly one year ago and the petrol gauge worked fine. Problems seem to have begun when I replaced the rubber seal on the tank sender. But this could be a coincidence.
Have removed sender again and tested using a meter. I get a nice progressive change in resistance as the float arm is moved, which seems to indicate all is well? Advice and comments please.
Anyway, answers to the following questions might help me isolate the problem.
1. What resistance reading should one see at the two extremes of full tank & empty tank. At one extreme is the reading zero ohms?
2. From 1. above, can one short the two wires that connect to the sender and what reading should that show on a "working" petrol gauge?
3. How do you remove the petrol gauge from the dash?
4. I understand that replacement petrol gauges are no longer available - is this true? If yes, does anyone know of a company that can repair them?
5. How much does a replacement sender cost? And in most people's experience, is it the sender at the root of most problems and would you suggest a gamble and buy a sender anyway.
Basically, the fuel gauge readings are now totally random. Reads empty when known to be more than half full. Fluctuates wildly between half full and empty. Now gauge reads empty for most of the time.
Bought the car TVR S3 nearly one year ago and the petrol gauge worked fine. Problems seem to have begun when I replaced the rubber seal on the tank sender. But this could be a coincidence.
Have removed sender again and tested using a meter. I get a nice progressive change in resistance as the float arm is moved, which seems to indicate all is well? Advice and comments please.
Anyway, answers to the following questions might help me isolate the problem.
1. What resistance reading should one see at the two extremes of full tank & empty tank. At one extreme is the reading zero ohms?
2. From 1. above, can one short the two wires that connect to the sender and what reading should that show on a "working" petrol gauge?
3. How do you remove the petrol gauge from the dash?
4. I understand that replacement petrol gauges are no longer available - is this true? If yes, does anyone know of a company that can repair them?
5. How much does a replacement sender cost? And in most people's experience, is it the sender at the root of most problems and would you suggest a gamble and buy a sender anyway.
quote:
Have removed sender again and tested using a meter. I get a nice progressive change in resistance as the float arm is moved, which seems to indicate all is well? Advice and comments please.
have got the same problem and don't know the answers to you enumerated questions, but:
if you see the resistance changing, when the sender is built out, do you also read this changing, when putting the electrodes of the meter on the connectors of the loom, the last one being connected to the sender. The S-bible says that the connectors are prone for corrosion, since exposed to the wheel without any protection. Does WD-40 help?
Would be interested about your outcome.
Cheers Patrick
Guys,
I had a simular problem, mine was down to a bad connection at the sender though. I fitted a new spade connector - all ok.
If you connect the live wire at the petrol tank sender unit to earth (with the ignition on) the petrol gauge should read all the way to the end stop. This should prove that the gauge and wiring to it are ok.
Not sure if this helps, but it's a tried and trusted way of testing the gauge.
Cheers,
Dave.
>> Edited by Dave_H on Friday 15th March 20:57
I had a simular problem, mine was down to a bad connection at the sender though. I fitted a new spade connector - all ok.
If you connect the live wire at the petrol tank sender unit to earth (with the ignition on) the petrol gauge should read all the way to the end stop. This should prove that the gauge and wiring to it are ok.
Not sure if this helps, but it's a tried and trusted way of testing the gauge.
Cheers,
Dave.
>> Edited by Dave_H on Friday 15th March 20:57
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