Slave cylinder DIY recon advice
Discussion
The clutch biting point is getting a little low on my s and the 1st/2nd and reverse is not ideal.
So after reading various other threads about this problem thought I,d have a go replacing the seals in the slave cylinder and putting some fresh fluid in.
The master cylinder is fairly new. The slave cylinder has been weeping a little judging by the condition of the paint on the mounting plate.
Have a new seal kit ready to fit.
Any advice about doing the job would be helpful.
1990 S3
Cheers
Alan
So after reading various other threads about this problem thought I,d have a go replacing the seals in the slave cylinder and putting some fresh fluid in.
The master cylinder is fairly new. The slave cylinder has been weeping a little judging by the condition of the paint on the mounting plate.
Have a new seal kit ready to fit.
Any advice about doing the job would be helpful.
1990 S3
Cheers
Alan
Edited by Wiz on Thursday 14th May 21:28
Alan,
Having gone down the seal replacement route myself I would advise spending £10 to get a new cylinder. The only issue you may have is getting a 7/16" unf union fitted to the end of the pipe as the TVR one is metric. I have a friendly garage who did it for me in 10 minutes.
Here's the link to the route I took and where to get a cylinder from. TVR car parts do one for 50+ quid.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The previous owner regularly removed and cleaned/replaced the seals but it only lasted a couple of months before the problem returned.
Steve
Having gone down the seal replacement route myself I would advise spending £10 to get a new cylinder. The only issue you may have is getting a 7/16" unf union fitted to the end of the pipe as the TVR one is metric. I have a friendly garage who did it for me in 10 minutes.
Here's the link to the route I took and where to get a cylinder from. TVR car parts do one for 50+ quid.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The previous owner regularly removed and cleaned/replaced the seals but it only lasted a couple of months before the problem returned.
Steve
Just replaced my slave for the £10 landy one, I have a bog standard brake pipe flaring kit (costs about £15)that has the righe size die for the larger bore clutch pipe, took about 5 minutes to cut the end off and flare it.
I think the problem is the bore in the cylinder corodes and there is nothing a new seal kit will do, so after a shortime I would assume the roughness in the bore will kill the new seals, for info the landy one is ali and seems lighter than the original!
I think the problem is the bore in the cylinder corodes and there is nothing a new seal kit will do, so after a shortime I would assume the roughness in the bore will kill the new seals, for info the landy one is ali and seems lighter than the original!
Considered the ebay/Landrover cylinder but by the time I'd payed the garage to do the job including the pipe flaring,it wouldn't work out much cheaper than replacing the cylinder myself with the correct part.
Also thinking that replacing the seals from a reputable source i know there new and at least i get to keep the original girling unit, rather than replace with a pattern one.
Will find out once i can get motivated to go out in the rain and get the car up on stands. Get the cylinder off and have a look.
The company i got the kit from - http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/ found them very helpfull.
Also thinking that replacing the seals from a reputable source i know there new and at least i get to keep the original girling unit, rather than replace with a pattern one.
Will find out once i can get motivated to go out in the rain and get the car up on stands. Get the cylinder off and have a look.
The company i got the kit from - http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/ found them very helpfull.
Edited by Wiz on Friday 15th May 10:27
And mines gone like that, think its a bit of a dodgy TVR adaption to use a hydraulic cylinder on a release arm designed by Ford for cable operation. Doesn't seem to cause a problem but am looking at "improving" when g'box comes out one day (which I am now assured can be done, with a bit of struggling !)
Got the cylinder off the car and it is corroded inside the cylinder bore. In the lower inside where moisture must gather whilst its stood i guess. Have cleaned it up with wet&dry. The back of the cylinder had quite a bit of muck in it as well, the bleed was blocked too.
New seals fitted, just a case of refitting it to the car and bleeding it. Job can wait till tomorrow as the weather looks bad any way.
New seals fitted, just a case of refitting it to the car and bleeding it. Job can wait till tomorrow as the weather looks bad any way.
Got everything refitted, bled and off the stands.
Now the gear selection is worse - probably half what i had about 1" from the floor.
Will bleed it again. One thing I'm not sure of though is the position of the push rod on the slave. When i took it off it was in the large hole in the arm which gives a straight action from the cylinder center. Noticed on a couple of other threads some are fitted to the small hole further out, which although looks wrong will give me a bit more adjustment.
Realy annoying when after spending time on a job it becomes worse
Now the gear selection is worse - probably half what i had about 1" from the floor.
Will bleed it again. One thing I'm not sure of though is the position of the push rod on the slave. When i took it off it was in the large hole in the arm which gives a straight action from the cylinder center. Noticed on a couple of other threads some are fitted to the small hole further out, which although looks wrong will give me a bit more adjustment.
Realy annoying when after spending time on a job it becomes worse
Alan
Keep smiling mine was, is and always has been into the inner hole. Waiting with interest to see how you get on. I've also rebuilt a rusty slave cylinder and I'm thinking thats the wrong move. Ideally want a new cylinder I can bolt straight in without messing with new pipe ends. Have you done the master cylinder seals? Andy
Keep smiling mine was, is and always has been into the inner hole. Waiting with interest to see how you get on. I've also rebuilt a rusty slave cylinder and I'm thinking thats the wrong move. Ideally want a new cylinder I can bolt straight in without messing with new pipe ends. Have you done the master cylinder seals? Andy
S2Andy said:
Alan
Keep smiling mine was, is and always has been into the inner hole. Waiting with interest to see how you get on. I've also rebuilt a rusty slave cylinder and I'm thinking thats the wrong move. Ideally want a new cylinder I can bolt straight in without messing with new pipe ends. Have you done the master cylinder seals? Andy
Master cylinder was replaced by previous owner and is ok. Have had another go bleeding mine and wound out the pushrod a little can get gears now and have tried winding out the master cylinder rod, just lifts the pedal higher.Keep smiling mine was, is and always has been into the inner hole. Waiting with interest to see how you get on. I've also rebuilt a rusty slave cylinder and I'm thinking thats the wrong move. Ideally want a new cylinder I can bolt straight in without messing with new pipe ends. Have you done the master cylinder seals? Andy
Beginning to think the clutch itself is the culprit. Only have to lift the pedal off the floor a little and the cars moving
Any rough ideas on cost for a indy garage fit clutch any body?
Got the clutch sorted, or at least Steve at SSCC did.
Been without the car for a couple of weeks while they got time to have a look. Innitially it looked like the release bearing or arm and i feared the worse and most expensive outcome.
Picked the car up today all sorted.
Turned out the pushrod which is pictured earlier on was worn very badly hence the notch in it. A bit of welding and grinding later its working better than ever.
Been without the car for a couple of weeks while they got time to have a look. Innitially it looked like the release bearing or arm and i feared the worse and most expensive outcome.
Picked the car up today all sorted.
Turned out the pushrod which is pictured earlier on was worn very badly hence the notch in it. A bit of welding and grinding later its working better than ever.
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