Exhaust Manifold
Discussion
After a great run on Sunday I developed that dreaded noise !!!!
Having only wrapped them with Thermotec 8 weeks ago the offside manifold has developed a hole in it at the bend. The only thing keeping the noise down is the the wrapping over the top of it ....
Has anyone done their own manifolds. The nuts on mine look well corroded. Been there for years and very inaccessible. I will replace both at the same time as a pair.
If I do it myself then I'll probably take the old ones off with hacksaw etc to allow better access to the nuts.
Or do I just hand it over to the specialists....it is my everyday car so I need to turn it around quickly...
Suggestions and experiences please..
Cheers
Mark
Having only wrapped them with Thermotec 8 weeks ago the offside manifold has developed a hole in it at the bend. The only thing keeping the noise down is the the wrapping over the top of it ....
Has anyone done their own manifolds. The nuts on mine look well corroded. Been there for years and very inaccessible. I will replace both at the same time as a pair.
If I do it myself then I'll probably take the old ones off with hacksaw etc to allow better access to the nuts.
Or do I just hand it over to the specialists....it is my everyday car so I need to turn it around quickly...
Suggestions and experiences please..
Cheers
Mark
I never changed the manifold on my S3 but have tried on two of my previous cars,both times shearing off at least one of the bolts
.
So IMO i would take it to a specialist because then they are responsible if the break them and probably have the tools to get a broken bolt out and re-tap the thread,unless of course you have the tools,but i think it could be very time consuming.
Good Luck
Simon
. So IMO i would take it to a specialist because then they are responsible if the break them and probably have the tools to get a broken bolt out and re-tap the thread,unless of course you have the tools,but i think it could be very time consuming.
Good Luck
Simon
In my experience Mark it's best left to the pros.
A friend of mine once had a pair made on the cheap for a Rover V8 project, he then had "new" ground clearance problems and his existing pipework didnt run very well down the car due to the end of the manifolds not being in the right place.
And what with the almost one and only position that the S exhaust has to fit correctly, I'd say you'd be best to just replace with the factory items or ones made by a recognised firm.
The previous owner on mine replaced them, they cost £100 each plus VAT.
Have you tried a temporary repair just to buy you some time? Depending on the size of the hole, that JBWeld (Halfords £8) has helped me out in the past.
Hope you get it sorted.
Cheers,
Dave.
A friend of mine once had a pair made on the cheap for a Rover V8 project, he then had "new" ground clearance problems and his existing pipework didnt run very well down the car due to the end of the manifolds not being in the right place.
And what with the almost one and only position that the S exhaust has to fit correctly, I'd say you'd be best to just replace with the factory items or ones made by a recognised firm.
The previous owner on mine replaced them, they cost £100 each plus VAT.
Have you tried a temporary repair just to buy you some time? Depending on the size of the hole, that JBWeld (Halfords £8) has helped me out in the past.
Hope you get it sorted.
Cheers,
Dave.
) 
Decision has been taken.
I'm not taking it to the specialists.
Reasoning.......
1 - Studs look shagged and no chance of them coming out of head.
2 - Will therefor need to pay specialist to take the heads off
3 - I am more than capable of doing the job and well prepared to take the top off the engine if I have too.
4 - Cost, Cost and Cost. Tower View reckon all the S's of my kinda age range have had snapped bolts and therefor the heads have had to come off. At this point you are looking at silly money.....upto £1000 !!!
So this is the plan.....
Will take a week off work as haven't had any time off for at least 4 months anyway.
Take car back to Dad's workshop and remove the manifolds completely out of the way and attack the studs. Likely result will be to have to have the engine apart. This lot will take no longer than 2 day top whack. Get the studs out of the head if necessary helicoiled...1 day.....reassemble the whole lot.....2 days.....fire the beastie up and be in Devon in time for Peninsula to service it....on the 6th day... the 7th day will be for rest !!!
Project will start next Friday !! Due to leave for Devon at 5:30am the following Friday.
Am going to go for Stainless Steel manifolds as only slightly dearer than Mild Steel. Will wrap with Thermotec before reassembly.
Look out for posts later next week and the following days ....
Cheers for the suggestions. Hopefully can get big brakes on and new ARB mounts in at the same time, may even have time to sort out the passenger electric window which has broken !!
I'm not taking it to the specialists.
Reasoning.......
1 - Studs look shagged and no chance of them coming out of head.
2 - Will therefor need to pay specialist to take the heads off
3 - I am more than capable of doing the job and well prepared to take the top off the engine if I have too.
4 - Cost, Cost and Cost. Tower View reckon all the S's of my kinda age range have had snapped bolts and therefor the heads have had to come off. At this point you are looking at silly money.....upto £1000 !!!
So this is the plan.....
Will take a week off work as haven't had any time off for at least 4 months anyway.
Take car back to Dad's workshop and remove the manifolds completely out of the way and attack the studs. Likely result will be to have to have the engine apart. This lot will take no longer than 2 day top whack. Get the studs out of the head if necessary helicoiled...1 day.....reassemble the whole lot.....2 days.....fire the beastie up and be in Devon in time for Peninsula to service it....on the 6th day... the 7th day will be for rest !!!
Project will start next Friday !! Due to leave for Devon at 5:30am the following Friday.
Am going to go for Stainless Steel manifolds as only slightly dearer than Mild Steel. Will wrap with Thermotec before reassembly.
Look out for posts later next week and the following days ....
Cheers for the suggestions. Hopefully can get big brakes on and new ARB mounts in at the same time, may even have time to sort out the passenger electric window which has broken !!
blazing: 
Nice one Mark,
You might as well decoke the heads & valves while the heads are off and replace the valve seals - these come with the 2.9 top gasket (decoke) set. You'll need the set for the manifold gaskets anyway.
If you do, don't buy the gaskets from Ford, they now sell the decoke set for £75 without the head gaskets
...they want another £30 each for the head gaskets - call me old fashioned but I always though the head gasket(s) were part of the decoke??
I picked up a good quality set from Cafco for around £60 when I did mine.
Good luck and let us know how it goes,
Cheers,
Dave.
You might as well decoke the heads & valves while the heads are off and replace the valve seals - these come with the 2.9 top gasket (decoke) set. You'll need the set for the manifold gaskets anyway.
If you do, don't buy the gaskets from Ford, they now sell the decoke set for £75 without the head gaskets
...they want another £30 each for the head gaskets - call me old fashioned but I always though the head gasket(s) were part of the decoke?? I picked up a good quality set from Cafco for around £60 when I did mine.
Good luck and let us know how it goes,
Cheers,
Dave.
Mark,
I've just taken the manifolds of mine. sods law will mean that one side, all the bolts will come out ok, and hey presto when you touch the other side with a feather the buggers will brake off. You may be lucky, but remember the engine came out of a ford!
Ford use a soft wood for the bolts called pine and it don't take kindly to heat!
Incidently, take some pictures as i need to see how you get the injection system off the top of the head.
But please don't send me 22.9mb worth (you know what i mean)
good luck.
when's this S meet then ?
all the best
gadgit
I've just taken the manifolds of mine. sods law will mean that one side, all the bolts will come out ok, and hey presto when you touch the other side with a feather the buggers will brake off. You may be lucky, but remember the engine came out of a ford!
Ford use a soft wood for the bolts called pine and it don't take kindly to heat!
Incidently, take some pictures as i need to see how you get the injection system off the top of the head.
But please don't send me 22.9mb worth (you know what i mean)
good luck.
when's this S meet then ?
all the best
gadgit
Pat,
I have pictures of that already !! I'll send them over.
I suspect though that my fuel rail and yours are different and therefor any instructions I give you will not be much use !! The fuel rail changed on the later 2.9s, of which I believe you have.....
The injectors themselves are the same and if it is the same as mine then you can reove them all while still attached to the fuel rail by easy them out rocking from one side to the other. They are only attached to the fuel rail by little clips, the actual electrical plugs are more awkward and prone to snapping a lug off if not treated with kid gloves.
I'll send them shots today...
Cheers
Mark
I have pictures of that already !! I'll send them over.
I suspect though that my fuel rail and yours are different and therefor any instructions I give you will not be much use !! The fuel rail changed on the later 2.9s, of which I believe you have.....
The injectors themselves are the same and if it is the same as mine then you can reove them all while still attached to the fuel rail by easy them out rocking from one side to the other. They are only attached to the fuel rail by little clips, the actual electrical plugs are more awkward and prone to snapping a lug off if not treated with kid gloves.
I'll send them shots today...
Cheers
Mark
Blowing from the manifolds is obviously a common problem with S's. I need to do exactly the same job on mine.
I have been accumulating over the past few months all the bits and pieces:
New one piece manifold gaskets from Ford.
Forged open ended ring spanner to fit.
Assorted second hand ring and open ended spanners that can be butchered about as necessary.
Several cans of ease it oil, penetrating oils and sprays - different makes
Heat proof silver spray paint to repaint manifolds.
Jointing paste for re-assembly of manifold to exhaust.
However, I would welcome ANY advice and tips from all those who have done the job before. Plus...
Q. The new Ford one piece mainfold gasket does not appear to be a design that needs jointing paste as well. Has anyone used this latest design and what do they recommend?
Q. Johno - can you please send me the pictures as well?
I have been accumulating over the past few months all the bits and pieces:
New one piece manifold gaskets from Ford.
Forged open ended ring spanner to fit.
Assorted second hand ring and open ended spanners that can be butchered about as necessary.
Several cans of ease it oil, penetrating oils and sprays - different makes
Heat proof silver spray paint to repaint manifolds.
Jointing paste for re-assembly of manifold to exhaust.
However, I would welcome ANY advice and tips from all those who have done the job before. Plus...
Q. The new Ford one piece mainfold gasket does not appear to be a design that needs jointing paste as well. Has anyone used this latest design and what do they recommend?
Q. Johno - can you please send me the pictures as well?
I have got to source a digital camera for the time I'm away or I'll just have to tkae normal photo's and get some more prints done.
I haven't had time to sort any special kit for the job and am diving in blind !!!
I am under strict time pressures so it will be interesting to see how I get on !!
Will definitely sort it though !!!!!!
Gadgit,
Will sort S meet ASAP....need time to breath at moment..
Cheers
Mark
I haven't had time to sort any special kit for the job and am diving in blind !!!
I am under strict time pressures so it will be interesting to see how I get on !!
Will definitely sort it though !!!!!!
Gadgit,
Will sort S meet ASAP....need time to breath at moment..
Cheers
Mark
quote:
Q. The new Ford one piece mainfold gasket does not appear to be a design that needs jointing paste as well. Has anyone used this latest design and what do they recommend?
Peter, as long as you get rid of any remains of the old gasket(s) and ensure both metal surfaces are clean you shouldnt need to use joining paste.
I found one of those scrapers with the stanley knife blade in was good to get the bulk of the old gasket off, then I used wet and dry to finish.
Cheers,
Dave.
quote:
First of a variety of questions......
1 - When removing the head do the push rods come off with the head ?
2 - Do I have to remove the Rocker shaft to get the head off ?
I will get to the Haynes guide eventually but until then ..... HELP !
Cheers
Mark
Hi Mark,
Yes the rocker shafts come off first, then you can pull the push rods out before removing the head.
Cheers,
Dave.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff