New trailing arm issue

[sparkypete]

Just on with fitting a new trailing arm for the V8s which I got from TVR carparts.
However the new arm does not have the bracket which the flexi pipe from the caliper connects to the copper pipe run down the arm.

Has anybody else had this, and what did you do to sort the problem.

Pete

[Barkychoc]

Make sure is it a V8S arm before you bash it about (you will!) getting it to fit.

Look at this thread - make sure your trailing arm has the extra bit sticking out indicated on the white trailing arm.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

The reason I say this is that bracket is only required for rear discs - so I was thinking maybe you've been given an S3 trailing arm for rear drums.

[sparkypete]

Chris

Yep Its the right type of arm for the V8s.



Looks like a slip up at the manufacturing end. Wonder if I can bolt a bracket on to the arm, otherwise it will have to go back.

Pete

Edited by sparkypete on Friday 27th February 22:18

[Barkychoc]

You may be able to make something with a caddy clip AKA girder clip - I'm sure with your PH name you've seen these before!

Not ideal - for what that must have cost I would have preferred it to be right!

[sparkypete]

Bloody good idea chris, I work with these day in day out.

Cheers mate

Pete

[TonupS2]

Pete I'm going through a full rebuild and have changed my rear drums to disks. Had the same problem of no cleat to bolt the solid/flexey break hose union to. Whilst the trailing arm was off (but already powder coated) I drilled and taped two 6mm holes and made up a small 'L' bracket. Even though I taped the hole I intended to also use small nylocs. Seemed a good idea but I didn't realise that there is hardly any space over the half shaft end within the trailing arm recess (bolt ends fouled halfshaft). So the bracket is back off and I am deciding what to do. I guess I will cut down the 2 fixing screws and loctite them in but I'm not sure yet. Make sure you consider where you put the bracket because of the proximity of the half shaft. Sorry pic is a bit out of focus but you can see the problem.

[magpies]

if you remove the drive shafts you could put the bolts in from underneath - the bolt heads will be shallower than the nylok nuts

[TonupS2]

Yes but that half shaft is not right in Square. The nuts were stopping it going fully in before I realised the problem. The gap is even tighter than shown (on mine anyway) about 2-3mm gap, it really is tight.

[Barkychoc]

Just a thought Tony would it work if you put the bolt through from underneath with the driveshaft out?
Even if you had to file the head down a bit to reduce the thickness you might get away with it.
You're right though there really isn't much room there.

[TonupS2]

If I had thought about what I was doing before I drilled the holes I could have possibly postioned away from the pinch point, but this pic shows just how tight it actually is in there.



I will try to grind the s/s bolt head down to wafer thin and put in from underneth as you both suggested. It is screwing into the taped hole so that will stop the head pulling through. Locktite as well me thinks.
Really just trying to make sure Pete doesn't make my silly mistake. I was worried about using the beam clips because from memory they cut into the paint to grip and I was worried about rust getting a hold?

Edited by TonupS2 on Saturday 28th February 17:41

[sparkypete]

Thanks for the pics mate, I think I will be going down a similar route of yours, but I will have to make sure I locate the bracket away from the shaft.

Pete

Edited by sparkypete on Saturday 28th February 17:41

[Ragtop]

Pop rivets may be the answer for Pete, but probably too late for Tony.