Non Starter for 10 ....
Discussion
Had a really frustrating day yesterday,
Broke down on the A322 in Bagshot causing miles of tailbacks (sorry guys to the 2 Chimeras and 1 Cerbera who passed).
Basically - completely dead - no power whatsoever. After about 20 attempts she started up again, she fired up as if there was no problem ! I dropped it into 1st and it promptly died again.
Mr. AA dribbled & drooled over the car, but could find nothing wrong at all. The battery was fine (reading 13.8 on his meter). Anyhow he managed to break a wire off the battery, so he replaced it. She started fine !
Got to Basingtoke no probs (on the inside lane of the M3 - quite a frustrating experience).
Going home last night, same thing again - just died on the A30. Fortunately this time I was about 5 feet from a bus stop layby, so just rolled into it.
However this time I noticed (as it was dark) that the headlights/indicators/interor light worked OK - there was just nothing going to the ignition at all.
It restarted first time I tried, all aok and crawled home. Had to get petrol so stopped at Q8 garage. At which point she would not restart at all.
2nd Mr. AA dribbled & drooled over it, and a after thorough going over reckoned it was the immobiliser thats causing the problem - which I dispute.
When the immobiliser is on the engine still turns, but does not fire. In my instance there's just no power at all.
Eventually got a flatbed to take me home @ 10:30.
"Sorry Darling .... it's like this .. car .... dead ... no, there is no other woman .... I know what night it is ...."
Sorry for rambling on ... anyway - can anyone give me any pointers as what it could possibly be?
Bottom line - The battery is 100% ok, and is providing power for headlights, etc. But when I try to start it it's 100% dead, not even the starter motor clicks - no response from the gauges - no lights (handbrake, etc) on the dash.
And on a side-note: Can anyone recommend a mobile engineer who can come out and have a shifty?
Frustrated (and nearly divorced) of Sunningdale
Broke down on the A322 in Bagshot causing miles of tailbacks (sorry guys to the 2 Chimeras and 1 Cerbera who passed).
Basically - completely dead - no power whatsoever. After about 20 attempts she started up again, she fired up as if there was no problem ! I dropped it into 1st and it promptly died again.
Mr. AA dribbled & drooled over the car, but could find nothing wrong at all. The battery was fine (reading 13.8 on his meter). Anyhow he managed to break a wire off the battery, so he replaced it. She started fine !
Got to Basingtoke no probs (on the inside lane of the M3 - quite a frustrating experience).
Going home last night, same thing again - just died on the A30. Fortunately this time I was about 5 feet from a bus stop layby, so just rolled into it.
However this time I noticed (as it was dark) that the headlights/indicators/interor light worked OK - there was just nothing going to the ignition at all.
It restarted first time I tried, all aok and crawled home. Had to get petrol so stopped at Q8 garage. At which point she would not restart at all.
2nd Mr. AA dribbled & drooled over it, and a after thorough going over reckoned it was the immobiliser thats causing the problem - which I dispute.
When the immobiliser is on the engine still turns, but does not fire. In my instance there's just no power at all.
Eventually got a flatbed to take me home @ 10:30.
"Sorry Darling .... it's like this .. car .... dead ... no, there is no other woman .... I know what night it is ...."
Sorry for rambling on ... anyway - can anyone give me any pointers as what it could possibly be?
Bottom line - The battery is 100% ok, and is providing power for headlights, etc. But when I try to start it it's 100% dead, not even the starter motor clicks - no response from the gauges - no lights (handbrake, etc) on the dash.
And on a side-note: Can anyone recommend a mobile engineer who can come out and have a shifty?
Frustrated (and nearly divorced) of Sunningdale
I had a similar problem last year, but I suspected that it was something to do with the Piranha alarm immobiliser.
Never got to the bottom of it, but it reset if the battery was disconnected, then reconnected. If you get stuck it's worth a try.
It could just be the "Boringstoke effect"!
>> Edited by Roy C on Friday 15th February 08:56
Never got to the bottom of it, but it reset if the battery was disconnected, then reconnected. If you get stuck it's worth a try.
It could just be the "Boringstoke effect"!
>> Edited by Roy C on Friday 15th February 08:56
Cheers Roy - I'll try that over the weekend. I was too knackered last night. I'll also go thru the Bible in detail to see if I can trace it.
As for your solution - that may explain why it did work, as Mr. AA #1 disconnected the battery, Mr. AA #2 did not. I would not think of doing that, as there is power anyway.
So I assume yours is running aok now?
The problem I have is that my is a daily driver, which I'm heavily dependant on - so I'll have to get the root of the problem. I don't particularly fancy crusing to a standstill on the outside lane of the M3.
As for the 'Boringstoke' effect ... don't start me on that one - I'd have one of Ted's now infamous rants.
As an aside to all this - I'm going to get a mobile engineer to come look at/service the [Laserline] immobiliser anyway.
As for your solution - that may explain why it did work, as Mr. AA #1 disconnected the battery, Mr. AA #2 did not. I would not think of doing that, as there is power anyway.
So I assume yours is running aok now?
The problem I have is that my is a daily driver, which I'm heavily dependant on - so I'll have to get the root of the problem. I don't particularly fancy crusing to a standstill on the outside lane of the M3.
As for the 'Boringstoke' effect ... don't start me on that one - I'd have one of Ted's now infamous rants.
As an aside to all this - I'm going to get a mobile engineer to come look at/service the [Laserline] immobiliser anyway.
Been there and had this.....
On a side note Interflora the FU****S didn't deliver my flowers yesterday........WA****S !!
My car died one morning and point blank refused to turnover, start anything.
Left it and got taxi to work. Came back that night and started fine. I removed all the earthing connections and cleaned them all back to bare metal and greased them. No more problems at all..
....Until 3 weeks ago (previous incident 6 months back) when I filled up ith petrol and got back in the car to start it , no go. Wouldn't turn over or do anything....Pushed the car away from pumps and she fired up first time once out of the way. Again no issues since...
S's are known for their electrical frailties and I suspect your problem will centre around either connections as Paul V has suggested. Certainly I would check the ignition wiring and earthing straps around the car.
I would also then check all the ignition leads, coil and alternator connections. Due to their poor ability to earth the S is very usceptable to these kind of mystery gripes.
I was never able to say with certainty that cleaning the earths solved my initial incident, but it appeared to work afterwards and never gave me any issues. I put the last incident down to me running the battery so low (wipers, heater, lights) that given the slightest chance not to turn over it took it.
Cheers
Mark
On a side note Interflora the FU****S didn't deliver my flowers yesterday........WA****S !!
My car died one morning and point blank refused to turnover, start anything.
Left it and got taxi to work. Came back that night and started fine. I removed all the earthing connections and cleaned them all back to bare metal and greased them. No more problems at all..
....Until 3 weeks ago (previous incident 6 months back) when I filled up ith petrol and got back in the car to start it , no go. Wouldn't turn over or do anything....Pushed the car away from pumps and she fired up first time once out of the way. Again no issues since...
S's are known for their electrical frailties and I suspect your problem will centre around either connections as Paul V has suggested. Certainly I would check the ignition wiring and earthing straps around the car.
I would also then check all the ignition leads, coil and alternator connections. Due to their poor ability to earth the S is very usceptable to these kind of mystery gripes.
I was never able to say with certainty that cleaning the earths solved my initial incident, but it appeared to work afterwards and never gave me any issues. I put the last incident down to me running the battery so low (wipers, heater, lights) that given the slightest chance not to turn over it took it.
Cheers
Mark
This forum is very usefull as people post problems and others share their (similar) previous experiences and hopefully find a cure. I have had a similar problem and the man from the AA was able to point me in the right direction.
My S3 just died one night some miles from home. I was not an AA member so had to join at the roadside and pay for all help (£126) But compared with the alternative of leaving my lovely car for the vandals to attack? And anyway I got good value for my money and I am not complaining.
The problem - the car was blowing ignition fuses and then simply dying on me. The AA man traced the fault to the wiring loom within the engine compartment, particularly those parts of the loom that had at one time been cut and spliced to fit the Clifford Alarm (fitted by dealer from new I believe)
The solution - having first dis-connected the battery, strip off the outer insulation tape wrapping to the wiring loom and carefully check any spliced soldered joints. Clean all individual wires with a clean rag to remove any accummulated damp bits of debris, water droplets & crap you find. Solvent might be used but check thit doesn't melt any plastic insulation first. Having cleaned all the wires, re-wrap them with new insulation tape and resecure as necessary using cable ties. The most vulnerable areas are the spliced joints where bare wire will be found.
The part of the loom giving me problems was the section from the n/s bulhead passing around the distributor. So I cleaned and retaped all wiring on the left hand side of the engine (lhs when looking forward from the drivers seat)
What may be happening with your car is that the crap, damp and even trapped water droplets that has worked their way into the loom is allowing the cable to short to earth or to somewhere. It is not always the case that the fuse will blow.
Tip
If the ignition fuse has blown, the tachometer does not work. This becomes obvious when you are turning the engine over and it will not start and the tacho needle does not move. Under normal starting the tacho moves immediately.
Tip
If you have a repeat of the problem do not get frustrated and try to think logically. Make carefull note of anything odd, what electrical items are working, but more particularly what is not working. This information will be really valuable later in trying to find the possible source of the problem.
Good luck
My S3 just died one night some miles from home. I was not an AA member so had to join at the roadside and pay for all help (£126) But compared with the alternative of leaving my lovely car for the vandals to attack? And anyway I got good value for my money and I am not complaining.
The problem - the car was blowing ignition fuses and then simply dying on me. The AA man traced the fault to the wiring loom within the engine compartment, particularly those parts of the loom that had at one time been cut and spliced to fit the Clifford Alarm (fitted by dealer from new I believe)
The solution - having first dis-connected the battery, strip off the outer insulation tape wrapping to the wiring loom and carefully check any spliced soldered joints. Clean all individual wires with a clean rag to remove any accummulated damp bits of debris, water droplets & crap you find. Solvent might be used but check thit doesn't melt any plastic insulation first. Having cleaned all the wires, re-wrap them with new insulation tape and resecure as necessary using cable ties. The most vulnerable areas are the spliced joints where bare wire will be found.
The part of the loom giving me problems was the section from the n/s bulhead passing around the distributor. So I cleaned and retaped all wiring on the left hand side of the engine (lhs when looking forward from the drivers seat)
What may be happening with your car is that the crap, damp and even trapped water droplets that has worked their way into the loom is allowing the cable to short to earth or to somewhere. It is not always the case that the fuse will blow.
Tip
If the ignition fuse has blown, the tachometer does not work. This becomes obvious when you are turning the engine over and it will not start and the tacho needle does not move. Under normal starting the tacho moves immediately.
Tip
If you have a repeat of the problem do not get frustrated and try to think logically. Make carefull note of anything odd, what electrical items are working, but more particularly what is not working. This information will be really valuable later in trying to find the possible source of the problem.
Good luck
I am another who has had this problem. Have you noticed any unusual smells lately in the cabin. When my S3 started intermittently going dead on me, I noticed an odd smell in the cabin which I initially put down to a personal hygiene problem 
until on closer inspection I discovered the multiplug which houses the ignition leads, behind the steering cowling, was in the process of meltdown. In fact I had to saw it apart in the end as the multiplug which normally easily unclips was melted together. The answer was to solder the corresponding wires together and wrap in insulating tape.. no probs since and no chance of future meltdown. Of course this may not be your problem but it's worth a check.
Regards
Dave S3c
until on closer inspection I discovered the multiplug which houses the ignition leads, behind the steering cowling, was in the process of meltdown. In fact I had to saw it apart in the end as the multiplug which normally easily unclips was melted together. The answer was to solder the corresponding wires together and wrap in insulating tape.. no probs since and no chance of future meltdown. Of course this may not be your problem but it's worth a check. Regards
Dave S3c
Nope - no funny smells that I noticed, other than the usual damp sheep smell.
I'll have a thorough investigation over the weekend, and if/when I have any updates, I'll post them here for future reference. I've got 2 weeks holiday now, so I've plenty of time to try and get it resolved.
Thank you all for pointers and help - it's all very much appreciated .
I'll have a thorough investigation over the weekend, and if/when I have any updates, I'll post them here for future reference. I've got 2 weeks holiday now, so I've plenty of time to try and get it resolved.
Thank you all for pointers and help - it's all very much appreciated .
In response to the no power / will not start article, I have seen a similar problem on a V8S. It turned out to be the main power feed to the back of the starter solenoid. The connection inside the ring terminal was corroded. To fix it, we re-soldered the connector and hey presto. To be honest though, as can be seen from the numerous other articles, 'S' series eletrics can be a little tempermental so keep looking and good luck!
I had this problem with the dead sometimes, ok other starting.... mine turned out to be a knackered ignition barrel. Replaced it with one from ford £18 and its purrrrfect.
worth a look, take off the rear end of the ignition barell with the grub screws & get a feel for how good the internal connections are. Try turning the key very slowly in the ignition if it happens again as it may catch at certain places.
worth a look, take off the rear end of the ignition barell with the grub screws & get a feel for how good the internal connections are. Try turning the key very slowly in the ignition if it happens again as it may catch at certain places.
My 2500M started doing this. First thing we did was replace the starter motor. The car would still do this, though usually once every couple of months, usually after driving about one mile from cold. Applying 12 volts direct from the battery to the solenoid would make it start fine. It started getting worse and worse. I replaced the starter switch, wiring, battery cables...trips to Indianapolis or Chicago for Woodwork became hell - every fuel stop required push starting or burning one's hand on the exhaust manifold.
Finally, the started locked up half engaged. Both starters must have been bad. I installed a new gear reduction starter and everything has been perfect, though since it is designed for some other vehicle, when mounted on a Tr6 lump the drain hole is on the top of the motor :-(
Finally, the started locked up half engaged. Both starters must have been bad. I installed a new gear reduction starter and everything has been perfect, though since it is designed for some other vehicle, when mounted on a Tr6 lump the drain hole is on the top of the motor :-(
Well I've finally got the car running again.
2 weeks ago I checked all the wiring, connections, fuses, earthing points, etc, and everything appears to be in A1 condition. Had me completely stumped.
Rechecked what worked/did not work .... Lights work ok, radio works ok, interor light works ok, dial lights works ok, basically everything not directly related to the ignition. But other than that the car was completely dead.
Last night (after 2 weeks holiday) I decided to re-trace everything again. Again, all was fine - all connections nice & tight, all earthing points fine, fuses fine, no corroded connections anywhere, etc .... but still no luck. In fact I'm suprised at the excellent condition of everything.
Anyhow, there is an old carphone installed, so I decided to remove it. Tons of cabling associated with it, with direct connections off the battery, most of which ran directly behind the stereo and immobiliser. Took about 30 mins to remove carefully. Reconnected everything, and thought I'd give it another go ..... AND IT WORKED!
The lights on the dash came on (handbrake, battery), the dials sprung into life. Turned the key and it fired up !!!! With complete disbelief I turned it off, removed the key, put the steering lock on, waited for the immobiliser to kick in, and went thru the start-up procedure again, and again it worked perfectly.
So, the above would 'suggest' that the old carphone electrics were causing the problem, but I can't believe this to be the case, as it's more or less independant of everything else - with the exception of 1 power lead which I can't trace. Anyhow, what I suspect is that in removing the tons of cabling I somehow pulled/pushed another cable which made a connection.
I'm going to re-check everything again tonight, but bottom line it's working, and I'm not really sure why, but assume I rejigged a cable/connection somewhere behind the stereo!
Thank you all for the various pointers which was really useful.
2 weeks ago I checked all the wiring, connections, fuses, earthing points, etc, and everything appears to be in A1 condition. Had me completely stumped.
Rechecked what worked/did not work .... Lights work ok, radio works ok, interor light works ok, dial lights works ok, basically everything not directly related to the ignition. But other than that the car was completely dead.
Last night (after 2 weeks holiday) I decided to re-trace everything again. Again, all was fine - all connections nice & tight, all earthing points fine, fuses fine, no corroded connections anywhere, etc .... but still no luck. In fact I'm suprised at the excellent condition of everything.
Anyhow, there is an old carphone installed, so I decided to remove it. Tons of cabling associated with it, with direct connections off the battery, most of which ran directly behind the stereo and immobiliser. Took about 30 mins to remove carefully. Reconnected everything, and thought I'd give it another go ..... AND IT WORKED!
The lights on the dash came on (handbrake, battery), the dials sprung into life. Turned the key and it fired up !!!! With complete disbelief I turned it off, removed the key, put the steering lock on, waited for the immobiliser to kick in, and went thru the start-up procedure again, and again it worked perfectly.
So, the above would 'suggest' that the old carphone electrics were causing the problem, but I can't believe this to be the case, as it's more or less independant of everything else - with the exception of 1 power lead which I can't trace. Anyhow, what I suspect is that in removing the tons of cabling I somehow pulled/pushed another cable which made a connection.
I'm going to re-check everything again tonight, but bottom line it's working, and I'm not really sure why, but assume I rejigged a cable/connection somewhere behind the stereo!
Thank you all for the various pointers which was really useful.
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