Just bought it and the stripdown starts - already a problem

[magpies]

Hi
Just purchased a dead S1 from Essex
Started to strip it down (body off ) to have the chassis straightened. I've not seen this amount of oil on a chassis / in the gearbox bellhousing on something which was supposed to have had a fortune spent on it. Talk about EVERYTHING needing to be either overhauled or renewed.
Anyway the problem is that when undoing 7 of the 8 nuts bolts that hold the seats on undid a couple of turns and then the bolts also turn with the nuts and are not unscrewing (the 8th didn't have a nut on it!!) What do I do now to remove the seats? do I cut the bolts above the nuts or will the bolts come out with futher turning?

[spivvy]

they are not captive nuts on the seats you have to get a spanner in the runner on the head of the bolt or jam as screwdriver in to stop it turning

[magpies]

Cheers spivvy - will do that tomorrow evening

[Gerald-TVR]

Mick

It can be a screaming bastrd I invested in nut splitters from Machine Mart a tenner very well spent, it was the only way I could get the seats out (and a number of other nuts removed)

[Barkychoc]

Norman is the chassis from the white one a better bet than that?

[Le TVR]

It seems to be a design idea with the 2,8 that there will be enough oil leakage from rocker covers, crank seals etc to ensure that the surrounding chassis doesnt rust. Clearly got the idea from Landrover.....
Ford said they could replace my front seal but that it would only do it again.

[Gerald-TVR]

Chris body is still on but I think so from what I can see

[merky300]

I managed to wedge the bolts with a pair of long nosed pliers jammed into the back of the seat runner. When you eventually replace the seats use allen head cap screws, much easier to remove if the seats have to come out again.

Tony

[GreenV8S]

magpies said:

Anyway the problem is that when undoing 7 of the 8 nuts bolts that hold the seats on undid a couple of turns and then the bolts also turn with the nuts and are not unscrewing (the 8th didn't have a nut on it!!) What do I do now to remove the seats? do I cut the bolts above the nuts or will the bolts come out with futher turning?

Slide the seat out of the way to give you access to the bolt head, put an open-ender onto the bolt head endways and use that to stop the bolt from spinning while you turn the nut. You might need a glamorous assistant to hold the spanner in place while you grovel about underneath, but as long as the bolt hasn't actually seized it's quite straight forward.

[magpies]

Cheers chaps

will have a go Friday night as tonight I removed the diff as I'm going to RSbreakers tomorrow to get an LSD and want to make sure I get the correct one - will probably be the one out of the gggranada Im getting the 24v cossy out of.
Sod of a job getting the diff out asone drive bolt was extremely tight - bent 2 spline bits before a 3rd undid it with a 3ft bar. Also the front offside cradle bolt cannot be got at (all the others were ok) so whole cradle undone to lower that bolt to get a socket on it - 2ft extension to the wheel arch and a 5ft tube over a breaker bar and with a lot of effort it finally went with a bang. Still - I found out the rear diff mount is sh#gged. I presume it is the standard cossy version?
Mick