S2 Oil Sump Removal
Discussion
Hi
The sump on my S2 has sprung a leak (19 years of corrosion...) and I need to fix it. I'm pretty sure it isn't going to come out with the engine in situ (chassis cross member runs underneath and there isn't enough clearance even with the anti roll bar removed, and bellhousing stops it moving backwards).
Has anyone tried to do this with just an engine lift (two or three inches would probably be enough to get the sump out) or is it going to need to be a complete engine out job?
Also, is it possible to remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds still attached, as there isn't a lot of clearance in front of them to the chassis (1.5 inches approximately)?
Thanks for any help.
The sump on my S2 has sprung a leak (19 years of corrosion...) and I need to fix it. I'm pretty sure it isn't going to come out with the engine in situ (chassis cross member runs underneath and there isn't enough clearance even with the anti roll bar removed, and bellhousing stops it moving backwards).
Has anyone tried to do this with just an engine lift (two or three inches would probably be enough to get the sump out) or is it going to need to be a complete engine out job?
Also, is it possible to remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds still attached, as there isn't a lot of clearance in front of them to the chassis (1.5 inches approximately)?
Thanks for any help.
I honestly don't know for sure but the engine really isn't that hard to get out complete with the gearbox.
I think theres a big multiconnector or two on the V6 - the V8 has a million individual wires that all need labelling!
The V8 comes out with the exhaust manifolds on and you can't get a fag paper down the side of them when its in the car so I'm pretty sure you will be OK.
You could take the opportunity to put a new clutch in while its out.
Be warned, you'll then clean the engine bay, then the chassis, then before you know it the body is off
I think theres a big multiconnector or two on the V6 - the V8 has a million individual wires that all need labelling!
The V8 comes out with the exhaust manifolds on and you can't get a fag paper down the side of them when its in the car so I'm pretty sure you will be OK.
You could take the opportunity to put a new clutch in while its out.
Be warned, you'll then clean the engine bay, then the chassis, then before you know it the body is off
Cheers Barkychoc,
most stuff is disconnected now, just need to disconnect some more of the engine wiring and the fuel lines. I pulled the plug on the distributor and the whole body turned! Turns out the local tuning specialist didn't tighten it up a couple of years ago.
I'm assuming if I undo the gearbox mount I'll be able to pivot the rear of the gearbox down and take the whole thing out on an angle.
Does anyone know how much clearance I'll need under the gearbox to pivot it round enough?
You're right, take the engine out, then body off, Cosworth V6 in it's place, chassis stiffening mods, suspension mods... difficult to stop.
I have an "event" in May and the body off has to wait till after that, otherwise this would probably be easier without the body in the way.
most stuff is disconnected now, just need to disconnect some more of the engine wiring and the fuel lines. I pulled the plug on the distributor and the whole body turned! Turns out the local tuning specialist didn't tighten it up a couple of years ago.
I'm assuming if I undo the gearbox mount I'll be able to pivot the rear of the gearbox down and take the whole thing out on an angle.
Does anyone know how much clearance I'll need under the gearbox to pivot it round enough?
You're right, take the engine out, then body off, Cosworth V6 in it's place, chassis stiffening mods, suspension mods... difficult to stop.
I have an "event" in May and the body off has to wait till after that, otherwise this would probably be easier without the body in the way.
You will need to get the front end up on axle stands.
When lifting the engine out it does end up at quite a steep angle - I used a ratchet strap to adjust the angle as it came out. I feel a pic coming on.
Also I put the straps through the exhaust manifolds then they can't slip off.
When lifting the engine out it does end up at quite a steep angle - I used a ratchet strap to adjust the angle as it came out. I feel a pic coming on.
Also I put the straps through the exhaust manifolds then they can't slip off.
Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 5th February 15:20
Also - I think on the V6 once the gearbox spline has slid out the gearbox oil will empty itself on your floor!
I don't think you can get the prop off till you move the gearbox so prepare for some comedy moments!
Don't get the gearbox oil on your clothes either - it really stinks and the smell doesn't really go away even after washing.
I don't think you can get the prop off till you move the gearbox so prepare for some comedy moments!
Don't get the gearbox oil on your clothes either - it really stinks and the smell doesn't really go away even after washing.
Barkychoc said:
Also - I think on the V6 once the gearbox spline has slid out the gearbox oil will empty itself on your floor!
guess how I know 
Barkychoc said:
I don't think you can get the prop off till you move the gearbox so prepare for some comedy moments!
Yes you can see here steps 3 to 7Barkychoc said:
Don't get the gearbox oil on your clothes either - it really stinks and the smell doesn't really go away even after washing.
guess how I know Also as it is an S2 I would check the clutch and if anywhere near needing replacement change it as you need to do an engine out to get the gearbox out unless the chassis has previously been modified around the gearbox mount.
Good luck
Mark
Edited by mep12345 on Thursday 5th February 17:35
The garage that repaired my engine a couple of years ago cut out the cross member with the engine still in place and then removed the sump. They called TVR first, who were still answering the calls at the time!!! 
They said it was OK to do aslong as the car wasn't driven while the cross member was missing
The repair was done and a professional welder refitted the cross member...job done
I haven't had any problems (that I know of!)
They said it was OK to do aslong as the car wasn't driven while the cross member was missingThe repair was done and a professional welder refitted the cross member...job done
I haven't had any problems (that I know of!)
Ford want £167 + vat for a new one (that's 200 quid!!), and I can't find anyone doing a pattern one. I've had no luck with scrapyards either, so I'm going to clean mine back to the bare metal and repair it with JB Weld.
There is a place called Hartlepool Radiators who will coat it with epoxy, but I don't know how much they charge.
There is a place called Hartlepool Radiators who will coat it with epoxy, but I don't know how much they charge.
NorfolkSteve said:
Ford want £167 + vat for a new one (that's 200 quid!!), and I can't find anyone doing a pattern one. I've had no luck with scrapyards either, so I'm going to clean mine back to the bare metal and repair it with JB Weld.
There is a place called Hartlepool Radiators who will coat it with epoxy, but I don't know how much they charge.
Sounds like you need to add to Normans Parts Wanted list!There is a place called Hartlepool Radiators who will coat it with epoxy, but I don't know how much they charge.
hi guys my son mikee boy had the same problem he found it easier to buy a complete engine off flea bay. the engine was low miles and he fitted it and it has been fine, buying a complete engine may seem overkill but look at all the parts you get ie throttle pot,injectors, dizzy, w/pump and if you are lucky an alt and a starter it could make sense
Hello,
I had a strong leak under my TVR, we suspected it was the gasket, in fact, my anti-roll bar has ripped on my oil sump and made a hole on it.
We have been able to remove it without cutting the chassis or removing the engine (by lowering the gearbox).
Now I need a new oil sump. Can someone advise me a part number or a place to buy it?
I had a strong leak under my TVR, we suspected it was the gasket, in fact, my anti-roll bar has ripped on my oil sump and made a hole on it.
We have been able to remove it without cutting the chassis or removing the engine (by lowering the gearbox).
Now I need a new oil sump. Can someone advise me a part number or a place to buy it?
magpies said:
HugoS2 said:
Thanks for your answer.
Yes, it is pressed steel, I'll try a patch, i think...
if in doubt take it to a local engineering or fabrication company and aske them to braze a patch on.Yes, it is pressed steel, I'll try a patch, i think...
If you do it then make sure you check the welds for leaks (pour some thinners in at least)
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