Oil pressure problems....
Discussion
2002 hasn't been a good year so far, all I seem to have is car problems.
Todays niggle is my S3 has zero oil pressure.
I do have oil in the engine - checked that first
I know it's not the oil pump as I've replaced it, I've had a rocker cover off, and with the engine running I get really good oil flow over the rockers. And even with the old pump the gauge registered some pressure at least.
The wire is on the oil pressure sensor (bit on N/S of block??)but I ran out of time tonight to follow this wire back to the gauge.
The bible talks about a possible oil presure regulator??, possibly this is a question for SteveH, does anyone know where this is found?
Even though I'm sure this isnt serious, I'm not taking any chances with driving it now, apart from the weather, I'd really been enjoying using this everyday.
Anyone have any simular experiences?, any advice greatly received.
Cheers,
Dave (3 cars, only one works)
Todays niggle is my S3 has zero oil pressure.
I do have oil in the engine - checked that first
I know it's not the oil pump as I've replaced it, I've had a rocker cover off, and with the engine running I get really good oil flow over the rockers. And even with the old pump the gauge registered some pressure at least.
The wire is on the oil pressure sensor (bit on N/S of block??)but I ran out of time tonight to follow this wire back to the gauge.
The bible talks about a possible oil presure regulator??, possibly this is a question for SteveH, does anyone know where this is found?
Even though I'm sure this isnt serious, I'm not taking any chances with driving it now, apart from the weather, I'd really been enjoying using this everyday.
Anyone have any simular experiences?, any advice greatly received.
Cheers,
Dave (3 cars, only one works)
It is possible the oil pump needs priming or you only have partial pressure hence flow but no reading.
Worth a look to make sure it is nothing simply like a lead fallen off. If nothing obvious I would be tempted to fit a mechanical guage and confirm the pressure first. If Ok then sort out if it is an electrical or sender problem. The oil pressure regulator is normally in the oil pump and makes sure you don't get too high a pressure. The S bible reference is with the V8 engines. I would guess that the Fords have them as well though.
Definitely taking the right approachj in being cautious.
Steve
Worth a look to make sure it is nothing simply like a lead fallen off. If nothing obvious I would be tempted to fit a mechanical guage and confirm the pressure first. If Ok then sort out if it is an electrical or sender problem. The oil pressure regulator is normally in the oil pump and makes sure you don't get too high a pressure. The S bible reference is with the V8 engines. I would guess that the Fords have them as well though.
Definitely taking the right approachj in being cautious.
Steve
Dave,
I had a similar prob with my S at Christmas - when it started the gauge sat at zero and then moved up after a few minutes. It was checked with a manual pressure gauge and found to be ok, I was advised that the sender is usually the problem, however mine turned out to be a faulty gauge.
Cheers,
JSG.
I had a similar prob with my S at Christmas - when it started the gauge sat at zero and then moved up after a few minutes. It was checked with a manual pressure gauge and found to be ok, I was advised that the sender is usually the problem, however mine turned out to be a faulty gauge.
Cheers,
JSG.
I have an oil pressure problem too.
When cold the pressure goes up over 30, however after 10 mins the pressure drops, well under 0?
Do I still need to prime the oil pump? Prior to this, I did accidently allow the oil level to go quite low?
Also, is O - 40 the correct grade to use - is this the problem?
When cold the pressure goes up over 30, however after 10 mins the pressure drops, well under 0?
Do I still need to prime the oil pump? Prior to this, I did accidently allow the oil level to go quite low?
Also, is O - 40 the correct grade to use - is this the problem?
Thanks Guys,
A freind next door has a manual pressure gauge, I think as SH says that's proberly the next step as I'm sure this is electrical, or as your experience JSG even the gauge.
Steve500, as the engine warms up the oil thins, so the pressure will drop. You're using the right oil, I'd say you proberly need a manual pressure gauge to find out your true pressure as well. Mine originally had your symptoms and it turned out in my case to be a worn oil pump.
Cheers,
Dave.
A freind next door has a manual pressure gauge, I think as SH says that's proberly the next step as I'm sure this is electrical, or as your experience JSG even the gauge.
Steve500, as the engine warms up the oil thins, so the pressure will drop. You're using the right oil, I'd say you proberly need a manual pressure gauge to find out your true pressure as well. Mine originally had your symptoms and it turned out in my case to be a worn oil pump.
Cheers,
Dave.
Repeat after me...
If you have zero of very low oil pressure, stop the engine. Do not drive it until you are sure that you have oil pressure. This means plugging in a mechanical meter and measuring. This does not mean drive it 5, 10 or 30 miles to a dealer or home. Assume that you have a problem until proven otherwise. If all is well then you can drive the car while you trace the fault. If not, then you possible have saved yourself the cost of an engine rebuild. It is as simple as that. I know it is inconvenient, especially when the problem turns out to be an instrumentation issue but real low oil pressure means that the engine is about to die very quickly. Ignore it at your peril. Your choice though.
Would I prime the pump? If it was the cause of the low oil pressure I would but right now it is impossible to tell if there is a major problem or if it is with the instrumentation. If the oil was low you could well have problems like an unprimed pump or a broken pick up pipe or something else.
I'm sorry to be melodramatic but I've seen enough knackered engines caused by owners failing to act when the oil pressure drops or the water temp rise to fill a lifetime.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
If you have zero of very low oil pressure, stop the engine. Do not drive it until you are sure that you have oil pressure. This means plugging in a mechanical meter and measuring. This does not mean drive it 5, 10 or 30 miles to a dealer or home. Assume that you have a problem until proven otherwise. If all is well then you can drive the car while you trace the fault. If not, then you possible have saved yourself the cost of an engine rebuild. It is as simple as that. I know it is inconvenient, especially when the problem turns out to be an instrumentation issue but real low oil pressure means that the engine is about to die very quickly. Ignore it at your peril. Your choice though.
Would I prime the pump? If it was the cause of the low oil pressure I would but right now it is impossible to tell if there is a major problem or if it is with the instrumentation. If the oil was low you could well have problems like an unprimed pump or a broken pick up pipe or something else.
I'm sorry to be melodramatic but I've seen enough knackered engines caused by owners failing to act when the oil pressure drops or the water temp rise to fill a lifetime.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
The problem with the oil pressure light is that it only comes on with virtually zero pressure. I have heard many recommendations that you can ignore the gauge providing this doesn't come on. Trouble is if the pressure is really low but not zero then the engine could still be at risk, particularly cams and rockers. Also you may not know if this has been disconnected to hide an oil pressure problem?
Any decent garage should be able to do a pressure test providing they have a gauage and right adapter. I do suspect that Steve500's problem is a duff sender but I have seen similar symptoms on an engine minutes before it went bang so careful does it.
The 520 has a mechanical pressure and temp guage as does the Cerbera.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Any decent garage should be able to do a pressure test providing they have a gauage and right adapter. I do suspect that Steve500's problem is a duff sender but I have seen similar symptoms on an engine minutes before it went bang so careful does it.
The 520 has a mechanical pressure and temp guage as does the Cerbera.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Thanks for this advice, I will make attempts to book it into the dealer in Henley.
I've noticed this page is for "s series", I should be under the Griffith page. The car is older - 1995, will this mean anything different? So far, I have used it every day (40 miles a day) throughout the winter without any problems atall.
I've noticed this page is for "s series", I should be under the Griffith page. The car is older - 1995, will this mean anything different? So far, I have used it every day (40 miles a day) throughout the winter without any problems atall.
quote:
I've noticed this page is for "s series", I should be under the Griffith page. The car is older - 1995, will this mean anything different? So far, I have used it every day (40 miles a day) throughout the winter without any problems atall.
Steve, Whatever the car or engine, low oil pressure should be treated as a serious problem until it's proven not to be.
Cheers,
Dave.
quote:
I will continue the oil pressure queries. I recently had an incident on a high speed run, where both the oil pressure gauge started dancing around like a cat on a hot tin roof as did the speedo!!
Is this just usual TIV petulance or a sign of something more sinister?
Sounds more like an electrical problem if the speedo reading flicked about as well.
My MGs oil pressure reading does sometimes moves a bit (but never downwards) this has never proved to be a problem, but the MGs gauge is mechanical not electrical as with the TVR.
I know SteveH and I may seem to appear to be getting commission from the people that make these, but if there's any doubt about oil pressure, its best to get a manual test gauge put on to test the true pressure from the pump.
In my original posting I was after the symptoms/fixes for a zero gauge reading, but I always intended to test with one of these gauges as I'd diagnosed the old oil pump was faulty before this way.
Cheers,
DAve.
quote:
Actually, another thing is that the oil pressure warning light, above the steering column, has not illuminated once, despite the needle being well under "0".
I note someone said this should come on under a pressure of "7.5".
??
Are you sure it has an oil light mine don't. At my first service at Fernhurst I ask them to check why the oil light was not coming on when I turned the ignition on. Thier reply "Because it was not made with one"
Mark
quote:
quote:
Actually, another thing is that the oil pressure warning light, above the steering column, has not illuminated once, despite the needle being well under "0".
I note someone said this should come on under a pressure of "7.5".
??
Are you sure it has an oil light mine don't. At my first service at Fernhurst I ask them to check why the oil light was not coming on when I turned the ignition on. Thier reply "Because it was not made with one"
Mark
Mine had an unused 'MIL' light but no switch. Now I run with the MIL light wired up, plus two ultrabright flashing warning light and a loud buzzer. When I am on the track these are just about enough to get my attention! Oil surge can kill your engine in seconds, and they are so easy to fit there really is no reason not to.
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
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