Exhaust Replacement and hood re-waterproofing
Exhaust Replacement and hood re-waterproofing
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Discussion

Craigfa

Original Poster:

41 posts

234 months

Tuesday 30th September 2008
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I have discuovered a few holes in the front link pipes on my exhaustfrown. I've have a new pair being delivered tomorrow, and am looking for any top tips on replacing these sections - I don't want to end up having to replace the whole thing!!

Also, I need to re-waterproof my hood - can anyone recommend a product to do this with?

Cheers

Craig

Roy C

4,213 posts

313 months

Tuesday 30th September 2008
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Craigfa said:
I need to re-waterproof my hood - can anyone recommend a product to do this with?
I use Fabsil, others use Thompsons Waterseal. I've tried Renovo Ultraproofer, but it didn't last as long as Fabsil.

Renovo also make Fabric Hood Reviver (black or blue dye), which works very well.
http://www.vertar.com/renovo/

Road2Ruin

6,478 posts

245 months

Tuesday 30th September 2008
quotequote all
Roy C said:
Craigfa said:
I need to re-waterproof my hood - can anyone recommend a product to do this with?
I use Fabsil, others use Thompsons Waterseal. I've tried Renovo Ultraproofer, but it didn't last as long as Fabsil.

Renovo also make Fabric Hood Reviver (black or blue dye), which works very well.
http://www.vertar.com/renovo/
I went to the local camping shop and just got some NIC wax fabric waterprofer, worked a treat and a fraction of the price of the others.

seb400

459 posts

313 months

Wednesday 1st October 2008
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I've always used Thomson Water Seal (for exterior brickwork) on my roofs. Paints on (be careful with splashes on the paintwork) and is good value for money.

Steve

spivvy

1,535 posts

283 months

Wednesday 1st October 2008
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failly simply task to replace the downpipes i assume it is an S3 the are only held on by u bolts and rust smile


Craigfa

Original Poster:

41 posts

234 months

Wednesday 1st October 2008
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Spivvy, It is an S3, and luckily only 1 of the U-bolts is rusty - but there are 6 of them as someone has helpfully used 2 sections for each link pipe in the past with all sorts of funny welding and extra U-bolts!! The pipes at each end look well rusted though...could be fun eek

Looks like i'll be off to a camping shop at the weekend for some low-cost approach to waterproofing the hood - thanks for the product suggestions.

Wildfire

9,948 posts

281 months

Friday 3rd October 2008
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I had much fun trying to get my down pipes sorted out properly and sealed when I holed mine at warp factor 10 outside Leeds.

ACT nicely had a set fabricated in SS to go with my custom exhaust. It all fitted very nicely, except getting it to seal on the manifolds and old exhaust(my exhaust took a while and I ordered it a few months after) was a complete pain in the censored!!

My best tips I can give is the fit them in and then carry out what can only be termed as a repair.

I got some thin sheet metal Covered one side in High Temp RTV and wrapped it round. I then used 3 U Clamps on each join, where I could 2 to seal the "patch" and 1 in the middle to seal the exhaust.

I did this for the exhaust as well, until I got the new exhaust.

It eliminated my some of my pops and bangs, but there was no ticking and my economy and power went up!

As far as the roof goes. Check out my reviews of Renovo.

But I have recently found out that Renovo has a UV inhibitor in it which the other products don't have. Also if you are going to get the clenser, revitaliser, you may aswell get the kit.

ACT do a good deal on Renovo products. I have recently just bought the full kit from them.

clarenceboddiger

1,398 posts

244 months

Saturday 4th October 2008
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I used a product called Fabsil which I had left over from treating a Trailer Tent and it worked well.

greymrj

3,329 posts

233 months

Saturday 4th October 2008
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Not sure if this is any help because I dont know why yours is leaking but I did seek the advice of the upholsterer who did a good job on my seats. He showed me how cotton 'duck' material is constructed: a heavy cotton layer on the outside, a light lining on the inside and a a waterproof middle layer, and had a look at my hood. The majority of the hood material was fine but there were points at which the hood creates most at which the middle layer had broken up and the fabric of the inner layer was loose. The hood was definitely leaking at those points. We carefully cut the inner lining and painted Bostick onto the inside of the outer layer, painted a couple of layers and then carefully stuck the inner lining back. Apparently the Bostik stays flexible enough to seal for quite a long time. I then restored the outer appearance with Renovo, it was expensive (Very!, get it from a show or direct, some suppliers were almost twice as expensive)with the black dye, and the effect was extremely good.
The hood material is now 100% leak proof, but sealing the edges is a completely different matter and I have a lot to do yet. Anybody know an easy source of black stick on foam rubber (like the cheap window house window draft strips but in black)so I can a temporary job!