help please for my V8S distributor.

[sparkypete]

Just had a shit of a day with V8s, the plug leads were looking tired as was the distributor cap so i decided to replace the cap and rotor arm, coil and purchased some Magnacor leads.

This should have been a piss easy job, however this was not the case , when i pulled the rotor arm off to swap it the centre shaft seemed lift up.There after it would not sit back properly and seemed show excessive sideway and up and down play. I removed the dizzy and found that the weight springs had come off.
The question is what stops the shaft lifting up, all i could see was a little brittle plastic type collar but this looked shot and was not holding it down. Does this need replacing or could I just set the springs back onto the weights, put the dizzy back together, plonk the rotor arm back on and place it back in the car. Does the rotor arm stop the shaft lifting once the cap hold it down, or do i need a new plastic collar thingy, (if so where do you get these from).

Many thanks all

PS, what is the little hole in the side for, should there be a bung on this??

[Barkychoc]

I took mine to bits not long ago, I think there is a thrust washer and a pin through the bottom of the shaft.
Don't quote me on this though.
I took it apart as the innards had seized that the vacuum diagphragm moves.
You should able to turn the pickup within the distributor a few degrees.

I have been reading elsewhere and I found some posts (not on here) of someone that had been talking to TVR power about distributor & timing advance information, and they told him that they didn't have any as it was a standard Rover V8 item, it was not modified in any way.

Not what I've heard elsewhere, but maybe its all an urban myth !

Might be worth looking for a dizzy on ebay, at least you could make one dizzy from two.

Chris

[sparkypete]

Thanks for the reply, I have managed to swap the dizzy for one from a landrover, popped it back in same position as old unit and all seems well, will have to check timing with gun later. The old dizzy does not have any hole in the shaft where a pin could go, only a small plastic collar, anybody know if there should be a circlip to retain the shaft ??.
I noted that the No1 post of the dizzy is not as the bible but more a 5 o'clock position, this means that the nice new ready numbered Magnacor leads are now run untidly to reach their respectiv post. Question can the dizzy be re-positioned to make No1 post as the bible??.

[GreenV8S]

sparkypete said:

can the dizzy be re-positioned to make No1 post as the bible??.

That's determined by the position of the rotor arm when you install the dizzy. You should note the position of the arm before removal and ensure it goes back in the same position, bearing in mind that it will turn slightly as you install/remove the dizzy due to the helical drive gear.

[Barkychoc]

sparkypete said:

Thanks for the reply, I have managed to swap the dizzy for one from a landrover, popped it back in same position as old unit and all seems well, will have to check timing with gun later. The old dizzy does not have any hole in the shaft where a pin could go, only a small plastic collar, anybody know if there should be a circlip to retain the shaft ??.
I noted that the No1 post of the dizzy is not as the bible but more a 5 o'clock position, this means that the nice new ready numbered Magnacor leads are now run untidly to reach their respectiv post. Question can the dizzy be re-positioned to make No1 post as the bible??.

You are right - I remember now because I bent my circlip getting it off, sorry for the duff information before.
The circlip engages in a groove on the shaft if I remember correctly.
I took the circlip off but it still wouldn't come apart - I didn't really need to take it completely apart so I stopped at that point and put it back together before I broke something.

It has been said to me by a number of people (inc Pete Humphries - Thanks Pete) that the timing marks on the pulley may not be accurate - I did use them and my engine seems to run OK (set at 8 degrees BTDC, Pete did say you may be able to go a bit higher but I've left it at 8).

I marked up my distributor before I removed it - but too late for you now !

• Edited to say my distributor also is nowhere near the bible position.

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 9th September 16:16

[clarenceboddiger]

May seem an obvious question but where has the circlip gone?? Be carefull its not balanced anywhere ( or stuck in a bit of oil) waiting to fall down the distributor hole.A quick look could save a lot of time later.

[sparkypete]

Chris

is the circlip you refer to the large one which holds the serated cog on or is it approx 5mm wide and should be located in the top of the shaft. Looking at the replacement dizzy it appears that the shaft is only held in place with the plastic collar thingy located under the rotor arm, i cant see a circlip on it.
Took the Tiv out today with the replacement dizzy in and it appears to be running bang on, i dont think it needs timing up at the moment.
If I can source the little plastic collar thing i will re fit the original dizzy.

Just a word of advise to you all, when you pull off the rotor arm, its best to hold the shaft in place with a screw driver and then pull of the arm, this will stop any upwards pressure being applied to the plastic collar and therefore leaving you with a small job growing into a bloody nightmare

Thanks

Pete

[sparkypete]

Just had a thought, If i set piston on No1 cylinder to TDC the rotor arm is at 5 o'clock position, can i not lift the distributor whilst No1 is at TDC and turn it until the arm points to a post at 10 o'clock and designate this as No1 post. This will enable the leads to fit in a proper manner.
Any thoughts anybody.

Pete

[Barkychoc]

sparkypete said:

Just had a thought, If i set piston on No1 cylinder to TDC the rotor arm is at 5 o'clock position, can i not lift the distributor whilst No1 is at TDC and turn it until the arm points to a post at 10 o'clock and designate this as No1 post. This will enable the leads to fit in a proper manner.
Any thoughts anybody.

Pete

I'd say if its running bang on leave it alone !

I've just been looking at the pictures of Rover V8 Distributors on ebay, and to be honest I can't remember how it was Pete.
I do know mine didn't come apart in the manner you described - I pulled my rotor arm off without any problems.

I've just changed my plugs and leads - I got a set of Bosch Ignition leads off ebay (listed for a V8 Land Rover) for £15. Let me tell you the difference is incredible. The car has gone from fast to scary fast, and the engine runs far smoother than before.
Original plugs were gapped incorrectly, and the leads were the originals so pretty tired I think.

Chris

[GreenV8S]

sparkypete said:

Just had a thought, If i set piston on No1 cylinder to TDC the rotor arm is at 5 o'clock position, can i not lift the distributor whilst No1 is at TDC and turn it until the arm points to a post at 10 o'clock and designate this as No1 post. This will enable the leads to fit in a proper manner.
Any thoughts anybody.

Pete

That's exactly the right thing to do. Remember that the orientation of the #1 lead is determined entirely by the position of the rotor arm at #1TDC; the orientation of the dizzy body is arbitrary and you can turn it either way in 45 degree increments without making any difference.

[sparkypete]

Thanks for the help and replies, does anybody know where i might be able to get the little plastic collar which locates under the rotor arm to secure the shaft

[sparkypete]

Right, all sorted there is a repair kit for the V8 distributor, part No "RTC5971" In it is the little white plastic collar which broke and caused me so much joy yesterday.