TVR S3C leaking fuel tank

[Wouter]

Hi,

I just got myself a beautiful green 1991 6 cylinder S3C ... with a leaking fuel tank
Does anybody have a spare tank for this model that he/she would be willing to sell me?
Does anybody know if there is a place where I could get one without having to spend over US$ 1000?

Thanks very much,
TVR Rulez!
Wouter

[tinks v8S]

steve reid classics sell stainless ones ,he may have some standard
hes on the net

£345 01928 719267 fax [phone]

Edited by tinks v8S on Wednesday 11th July 19:07

Edited by tinks v8S on Wednesday 11th July 19:09

[Elfit]

Hi Wouter.
I had a similar problem when I bought my S2.
As well as stainless steel there was some discussion a while ago about aluminium ones from a company called Allisport.
www.allisport.com

My local garage knew a specialist company that were able to repair mine. They appear to have done a good job.

Cheers
Elfit

[nawarne]

Wouter,
Before condemming the tank check for poor sealing at the following areas:
1) Filler cap hose to tank neck - body movement versus tank movement causes joint to weep. Fix by tightening/renewing jubilee clip(s) & resealing

2) Fuel tank level sender (on tank behind left hand rear wheel). If you have the one with the 'Ford' pattern sealing ring, you can dismantle (with an empty tank!!!) tap the 3 'tabs' over a bit more and re-assemble with a new gasket.

3) Bowl at bottom of tank - houses primary filter, up-stream of fuel pump suction.
Identical fixing to tank sender above. Same repair - same caution re mt. tank!!
Also opening this up allows you to clean filter and check for debris which has collected in this low point. I found swarf & muddy deposits here!

All the above is relevant to my 1992 V8S. Ive posted more detailed explanations last year I think.
Nick

[MickS2]

I had a similar problem earlier this year. I couldn't find anyone to repair it so after some investigation I went for a replacement stainless tank. Only David Gerald actually had one available, and it wasn't cheap, coming out at nearly £800 (including new sender and external filter). Some suppliers who used to do stainless have switched to aluminium which is a bit cheaper (around £400) but I prefer the extra strength of stainless steel considering the tank is low to the ground and behind the back wheels.

[Olav Bergman]

You'll have to, ofcourse, remove the tank. When you have, you might as well try to solder it. I did and it works fine. I located the hole, cleaned it good to bare metal. Then I plugged the hole so the solder wouldn't fall in the tank and covered the solder with a thin coper plate. Takes a few days to air out the fumes though before I put any torches near it.

[Wouter]

Hi Guys!

Thanks very much for your advice!
A few notes ...
- I have contacted Steve Reid (sTeVe Reid) and he is kinda stopping the business. He is not sure if he will ever have a fuel tank for sale. I am awaiting his final answer ;-)
- The problem is not the sealing or the tubing. There are some small punctures that slowly drip fuel, and some spots that 'sweat' a bit. I have checked, but my garage claims that this is either beyond repair, or will require permanent attention after a repair. I think that is not an option.

So ... thanks again for your valuable input.

Wouter

[pies]

If Steve cant supply try David Gerald

http://www.davidgeraldtvr.com/

[mep12345]

I have just repaired my leaking tank using Plastic Padding leak stop available from any motor factors. It is easy to apply you just need to prep the area first. My leak was around the fuel sender (the welded on ring was leaking - not via the seal but between the ring and the tank) but is is supposed to work on rust holes too. A couple of hours and the jobs a good-un.

[wharfedale]

Northern radiators reseal them with some sort of epoxy inside and out for about £80, they do clasics and stuff you cant replace.

[thegamekeeper]

Firstly may I thank Henri (wouter) for being polite enough to telephone me from Holland enquiring about the fuel tank. I started to offer these tanks in stainless over 4 years ago having identified a real need, I have seen many hundreds of "S" Series cars and a large proportion of them have seriously corroded fuel tanks. Take the filter out (where is that many will say, didn't know it had one )and see how much s**t comes out of the tank, most of which is the rust from the inside of the tank. Have a good look round the filter bowl housing on the bottom of the tank and the fuel sender fittings and you may see signs of corrosion, I've seen plenty.

Not a week as gone by without someone enquiring about new tanks because their's is leaking or looking as though it is badly corroded.That is over 200 phone calls and in that time I have sold 11 tanks and 190+ people are thinking about it!!!!

There are 3 variations of the S fuel tank (4 if you count the 2 fuel return variations of the V8 ). I have made jigs for all variations and laser cut all the fittings but if people wont pay for them its not worth making them. The first batch of 10 took nearly 4 years to sell and making them as one offs is not economically viable. They take a long time to make and are pressure tested, its not just a box with 2 holes in. At around £350 per tank I have lost money on them so I am reluctant to continue making them unless they can be made in at least small batches.

Aluminium in my opinion is not a good idea,they still corrode and are too vulnerable to stones puncturing etc and as with leaky corroded tanks you are sitting with 10+ gallons of fuel dierecty above the exhaust.

Some of the suggestions I have read above this response terrify me, at best they are short term bodges and a 15 - 20 year old mild steel box sitting under the car is not going to last for ever. Most of the tanks I have seen which are terminal are as a result of leaving the car over winter in the garage with a gallon of fuel in the bottom. The air space above in winter causes condensation to form, filling the tank with water which gatheres in the bottom and rots it from the inside (if your tank is still good and you lay it up for long periods fill it to prevent the above)

So the upshot of the above is : 1. if you think you might need a tank soon please contact me and if sufficient interest I will make another batch and convince my fabricator that it is still viable for me to offer them.

2. there will probably be a small increse in the price (last price has not changed for 4 years but cost of food has gone up )

3. A deposit will be required with order.

4. Keep soldering, plastic padding, slosh sealing.


The same applies to the stainless swirl tanks, quite happy to make small batches on same basis but one offs are not cost eefective


sTeVeR

[CTE]

Hi,

Some great information sTeVeR.

Lucky for me, my tank is fine, except I cannot stop a small drip from the filter(new one on me)bowl cap. I am now so annoyed with it, I am going to remove it. This then leaves the problem of resealing it. Does anyone know how this is done, or where gaskets can be purchased. Is the filter inside replaceable, or is it simply to be cleaned?
My car also cut out on me the other day, and now I know there is a filter which is prone to blockage after all these years, it looks very likely to be the culprit. I shall definately relish cleaning it out.

[ketvrin]

I have not seen Steves Fuel Tanks but can vouch for the swirl tanks... heres one I bought a couple of months ago...



the muts nuts or what ?