I've started my water pump replacement....a few questions!

[markbigears]

Thanks to you guys, I took your advice and had a crack at it myself. So here's where i'm at - Firstly got the belt off, and got the pulley off the pump, drained and flushed the cooling system, spayed the waterpump bolts with penetrating spray and while the car was up on the jack gave the engine a really good clean (which took most of the day!). This leads me to a few questions. Reading the "S" manual it says loosen the pivot bolts to the alternator and slip the belt off. So I loosen the bolts and drop the alternator to the lowest level it will go, but I still coudn't get the belt off. Finally got if off by taking the pump pulley off and that released the belt.
Now i'm wondering, did your belt come off just by slackening the bolts or have I a smaller than normal belt on it? (unipart) Also having trouble getting the larger of the 2 waterpump hoses off, did you release the jubilee clip at the pump end or the other end? and finally how do you tighten up the pulley bolts when refitting as the whole thing moves on the waterpump, and what tourque do I use.
There's something satisfying about working on your own car isn't there and I actually quite enjoyed myself!

[jimed]

Hi Mark - glad to hear you are having a go (and also hopefully saving some monbey as well) here is some info for you as requested:
-the fan belt is often a tight fit and has to be helped on/off the pulley by careful use of screwdriver/similar
- undo the jubilee clips on the hoses at the pump end and then give them a good wriggle round - they should come loose; if not try a very careful loosening round the end of the hose with a blunt screwdriver or something to get it moving
- put the pulley on the pump before you put it on the car as its easier.
The torque settings are (from the Haynes Manual)
Pulley bolts to w/pump 16-19 lb/ft
Water pump bolts 5-7 lb/ft.

When replacing the water pump be sure to clean the engine where the pump goes to ensure a good surface for the gasket and I also put a smear of the Blue Hylomar (I think that's what its called) gasket stuff on each side of the gasket as well - this doesn't set absolutely hard as some other stuff and is therefore easeier to get off next time but it will help with getting a good seal.
When you put the fan belt back on you will need to get it reasonably tight so as to avoid the possible rubbing with the top hose so keep an eye on that.
Good luck with it - as you say its theraputic ...
Jim

[markbigears]

Many thanks Jim, just the info I was looking for. I bought some of that universal blue from Hylomar and their tech dept emailed me on how to use it, nice people. Because of the Cat converters, there's buggerall room to give the bottom hose a good tug, tried a gentle screwdriver, but didn't budge it. I've put the Genuine part number for the Pump on the alternative "S" parts guide and will do the same for the bolts when i get them, might help someone out sourcing the genuine part. Just hope I can get the pump off without snaping a bolt or 2!

[jimed]

How did it go Mark? I assume you managed to get it sorted last weekend??
Jim

[markbigears]

Hi Jim, I've replaced the pump, just got to fill the system up with antifreeze and put the new fan belt on. Thank goodness I didn't break any bolts, all came out fine and in good condition although I replaced them all anyway with original Ford ones. Took my time (a lot!) but gave the engine and chassis the clean of its life while I was at it and replaced a lot of jubilee clips on various pipes. Replaced the coil the other day with a genuine one (had a lucas replacement early in its life), so just got plugs. distributor cap and arm and Oil and filter change to go now. Must admit feels great having done the job myself and saved several hundred pounds too! Must say a big thank you to you for all the help you gave me and constant emails I sent you!

[pies]

:cough: :cough:

[markbigears]

and of course all your help Col, how could I have been so forgetful!
and everybody else who chipped in on my various tiresome threads asking beginners (ie: Dumb) questions. Cheers guys, i'm almost back on the road!

Edited by markbigears on Tuesday 12th June 18:24

[jimed]

Good news Mark - in case you haven't done the fill up before (apologies if its teaching grannies, etc) - leave the heater control on full (not forgetting the valve on top of the radiator - open until fluid comes out and then retighten - don't over do that though) and fill to the top of the swirl pot then start up and gently rev (some air will come out of the system) - then top up to the top of the swirl pot, repeat until it is stabilised a bit - then get the cap on and leave to run with some gentle revving every now and then until fan trips in. It is useful to ensure the header tank is fairly full at this stage as it will need some to suck back when it cools. Leave overnight to cool properly and then ensure the swirl pot is full and the header at the correct level - then check it after the next run in case and off you go.
If you have fitted any silicon hoses you will need to retighten them a few times as they bed in with time/heat etc.
Jim

[markbigears]

Thanks Jim, Never filled the coolant up before, so many thanks for the advice. I'm a tad worried about touching the valve on the rad though, looking at a few threads in previous posts, there seems some don't close or leak. Do you have to touch it to get all the air out?

[jimed]

Yes you will need to use the valve on the rad or risk having air in the system which is a problem (it expands more than the fluid and will keep blowing water out until removed). Maybe some release fluid on the thread for a while and then careful use of pliers or similar to undo it; you only need a turn or so for it to work and its almost a good hand tighten afterwards.
Nearly there ...
Jim