New to TVR forum, TVR S info please.
Discussion
Hi All, new to the TVR forums (after selling my 944) and fancy either a late model s (or a cheap chimeria)
Can anybody tell me the diferent models of late S cars?, as far as I can tell the S3 has longer doors and a nicer dash with a horizontal instrument cluster in the centre console, and a host of different interiors, some quite plain grey leather and some gorgeous cream with wood dash.
What is the difference between the S3 and the S3C and S4?
Is it possible to tune the V6 or convert to a V8 eisily as I quite like the idea of a bit more power (but not the hump on the bonnet).
I also like the look of the large round spotlights on the later models but are there any differences under the skin that are really worthwhile having.
Is there anything (other than rotten chassis) that regularly go wrong with the S series cars and what should I be thinking of paying for a late model (basically are they selling for the prices they're being advertised for), and are they reliable? (I should say I've had a lotus elan in the past so have some experience with fibreglass cars)
Not sure I can afford a chimera as I do need a bit of economy but any info on the S or an idea of the best websites to have a look at would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Andy.
Can anybody tell me the diferent models of late S cars?, as far as I can tell the S3 has longer doors and a nicer dash with a horizontal instrument cluster in the centre console, and a host of different interiors, some quite plain grey leather and some gorgeous cream with wood dash.
What is the difference between the S3 and the S3C and S4?
Is it possible to tune the V6 or convert to a V8 eisily as I quite like the idea of a bit more power (but not the hump on the bonnet).
I also like the look of the large round spotlights on the later models but are there any differences under the skin that are really worthwhile having.
Is there anything (other than rotten chassis) that regularly go wrong with the S series cars and what should I be thinking of paying for a late model (basically are they selling for the prices they're being advertised for), and are they reliable? (I should say I've had a lotus elan in the past so have some experience with fibreglass cars)
Not sure I can afford a chimera as I do need a bit of economy but any info on the S or an idea of the best websites to have a look at would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Andy.
Hi, and welcome, please find replies to your answers below, i personally find the S2 dash nicer but thats a matter of taste.
What is the difference between the S3 and the S3C and S4? S3C same as the S3 but with cats and i think a limited slip diff. S4 same as S3 but with V8s bonnet, and disks at the rear
Is it possible to tune the V6 or convert to a V8 eisily as I quite like the idea of a bit more power (but not the hump on the bonnet). the 2.9 V6 is easily tuned to 200+bhp, i dont think you can fit a v8 without changing or modifying the bonnet, best conversion is to fit a 2.9 24v cosworth engine (same power as v8)
I also like the look of the large round spotlights on the later models but are there any differences under the skin that are really worthwhile having. No
Is there anything (other than rotten chassis) that regularly go wrong with the S series cars and what should I be thinking of paying for a late model (basically are they selling for the prices they're being advertised for), and are they reliable? (I should say I've had a lotus elan in the past so have some experience with fibreglass cars). The S cars are to my experience very reliable and cheap to maintain. Check that the electrics work and there are no clutch/gearbox or diff problems, you can allow for minor oil leaks though. Dont buy on age buy on condition of the car and history.
Not sure I can afford a chimera as I do need a bit of economy but any info on the S or an idea of the best websites to have a look at would be appreciated. To my experience the s handles better than the chimaera anyway, it is more chukable and marginaly slower, try tvrsseries.com.
What is the difference between the S3 and the S3C and S4? S3C same as the S3 but with cats and i think a limited slip diff. S4 same as S3 but with V8s bonnet, and disks at the rear
Is it possible to tune the V6 or convert to a V8 eisily as I quite like the idea of a bit more power (but not the hump on the bonnet). the 2.9 V6 is easily tuned to 200+bhp, i dont think you can fit a v8 without changing or modifying the bonnet, best conversion is to fit a 2.9 24v cosworth engine (same power as v8)
I also like the look of the large round spotlights on the later models but are there any differences under the skin that are really worthwhile having. No
Is there anything (other than rotten chassis) that regularly go wrong with the S series cars and what should I be thinking of paying for a late model (basically are they selling for the prices they're being advertised for), and are they reliable? (I should say I've had a lotus elan in the past so have some experience with fibreglass cars). The S cars are to my experience very reliable and cheap to maintain. Check that the electrics work and there are no clutch/gearbox or diff problems, you can allow for minor oil leaks though. Dont buy on age buy on condition of the car and history.
Not sure I can afford a chimera as I do need a bit of economy but any info on the S or an idea of the best websites to have a look at would be appreciated. To my experience the s handles better than the chimaera anyway, it is more chukable and marginaly slower, try tvrsseries.com.
TVR tended to do product development on the production line hence the comment that no two cars are identical! The S4 was the latest of the S Series cars and by definition the most developed. Despite the cats the S3c developed slightly more power than the S3. In my opinion the best looking bonnet was the S4 which had the driving lamps and vents down the sides in the style of the Chimaera. I believe I am right in saying that the bulge on the V8S was created for the 2.0 Turbo (intended for the Italian market but a non-starter) and the team decided to use it on the V8 to emphasis the power, because appaarently, the Rover V8 is no taller than teh Ford V6. Get a well sorted S3c or S4 and try a V8S to see if you want the extra power and can forgive the bulge 
First let me say I have no interest in this car, but take a look at the S3C in Hexham HC at the moment... 19000 miles and its mint! its not cheap, but I doubt you'll find one in better nick... I drooled when I saw it last week... bonnet has lamps and side vents.
good luck with your search
K
good luck with your search
K
To add to what has already been said. BTW I purchased my S just under 2 months ago, after 2 Caterhams over 6 years. I was attracted to TVR as a British company, and the fact that they had stopped making them (at least for the time being!?!?) made it more special. You will find the S heavy after a Lotus, big lump of iron V6 and no PAS), but very characterful. The Steve Heath book is well worth reading, my car came with a copy!!
Chassis condition is paramount but unless the body has been off before for refurb, there will be some rot somewhere. Essential to check all chassis but PARTICULARLY the outriggers and to do this properly the car will have to be in the air on a vehicle lift and the front arch liners removed so that you can see the front and rear outrigger tube tops. Also look at the fuel tank cradle and where the outrigger tube cross-member tubes join the main chassis rails. I bought a 1991 car with 56 k miles in good condition but it has already had and will need some more work in the next 6 months
Regular painting with Hammerite or similar and then waxoyling afterwards is essential at least once per year
Mechanical things to look for include (not in order)
Clutch/clutch master and slave cylinders
Steering bushes, play, the Ford Escort based column and bushes take a hammering
Cooling system, if the radiator/water pump has been replaced good!
Suspension, leaking dampers and saggy/corroded springs
Hood condition, expensive to refurbish, good to have the proper bags for the hood targa panels
Brakes, leaking rear drum brake cylinders
Get the car with the best history that you can find. V8 is nice but expensive, uprating the V6 could be expensive so if you really want power get the V8
Good luck and keep us posted!!
Chassis condition is paramount but unless the body has been off before for refurb, there will be some rot somewhere. Essential to check all chassis but PARTICULARLY the outriggers and to do this properly the car will have to be in the air on a vehicle lift and the front arch liners removed so that you can see the front and rear outrigger tube tops. Also look at the fuel tank cradle and where the outrigger tube cross-member tubes join the main chassis rails. I bought a 1991 car with 56 k miles in good condition but it has already had and will need some more work in the next 6 months
Regular painting with Hammerite or similar and then waxoyling afterwards is essential at least once per year
Mechanical things to look for include (not in order)
Clutch/clutch master and slave cylinders
Steering bushes, play, the Ford Escort based column and bushes take a hammering
Cooling system, if the radiator/water pump has been replaced good!
Suspension, leaking dampers and saggy/corroded springs
Hood condition, expensive to refurbish, good to have the proper bags for the hood targa panels
Brakes, leaking rear drum brake cylinders
Get the car with the best history that you can find. V8 is nice but expensive, uprating the V6 could be expensive so if you really want power get the V8
Good luck and keep us posted!!
for moneyHi Andy, Welcome to the "S" forum. I too came from a Porsche (924S, same engine as yours), and the first thing you will notice is you feel like you are driving a sports car. The suspension is harsher and you have to concentrate more, its less refined. Second thing is the roar from the exhaust! third, you can't help but smile, something that I rarely did in my Porsche, its a totally different car. My advice is too spend a bit more and buy the best condition car you can. Keep us posted!
Edited to say, Just seen that S is now sold, wonder who is went too?
Edited to say, Just seen that S is now sold, wonder who is went too?
Edited by markbigears on Tuesday 29th May 15:00
I started out looking for an S, and came across a V8 not 10 miles from where I live, owned by a PH (Pistonheads if you haven't worked out that one yet) member who mentioned he was thinking of selling, at a very reasonable price.
After a quick email I went to take a look.
Its got one or two minor frilly edges, but the chassis is absolutely mint and I decided that as the chassis was potentially such a pig to fix and / or expensive I'd take the risk on the oily bits and go for it.
It also came with the all important full MOT and 6 months tax.
There's negligible difference in insurance between the V6 & V8 and I have been very pleasantly surprised at the economy possible with the V8. The seller told me he reckoned he could get it knocking on the door of 30 mpg on a run taking it steady, I thought he was having a laugh but I have to say that so far my experience is proving this to be true.
I also put a wanted ad in pistonheads, and after a slow start this did get a number of leads many of which were not yet advertised. I'd also suggest putting a post on the S Series forum to see if anyone is thinking of selling.
Also - if you're considering buying from a PH member, look at their profile and see all the problems they've had under their forum postings ! I'm sure most members would tell you what they've been up to anyway.
I struggled to find the time to search for a car, so I was very demanding of some of the sellers, getting them to send me loads of hi resolution photos of their car if I thought it was a potential. In the end the V8S I bought was the first car I looked at but I reckon I've been pretty lucky.
You can read the exact details elsewhere but the V8S & S4 have a better chassis, limited slip diff, better brakes (discs all round). I have to say I do like the S1/S2 dash better, though I've read the instruments can reflect in the windscreen on these cars but have no idea how annoying this is.
I'd also say don't concentrate entirely on the car - pay attention to the seller, their attitude and whether you think you can trust them. Not an exact measure of anything but don't dismiss any signals you may get.
Happy Hunting
Chris
After a quick email I went to take a look.
Its got one or two minor frilly edges, but the chassis is absolutely mint and I decided that as the chassis was potentially such a pig to fix and / or expensive I'd take the risk on the oily bits and go for it.
It also came with the all important full MOT and 6 months tax.
There's negligible difference in insurance between the V6 & V8 and I have been very pleasantly surprised at the economy possible with the V8. The seller told me he reckoned he could get it knocking on the door of 30 mpg on a run taking it steady, I thought he was having a laugh but I have to say that so far my experience is proving this to be true.
I also put a wanted ad in pistonheads, and after a slow start this did get a number of leads many of which were not yet advertised. I'd also suggest putting a post on the S Series forum to see if anyone is thinking of selling.
Also - if you're considering buying from a PH member, look at their profile and see all the problems they've had under their forum postings ! I'm sure most members would tell you what they've been up to anyway.
I struggled to find the time to search for a car, so I was very demanding of some of the sellers, getting them to send me loads of hi resolution photos of their car if I thought it was a potential. In the end the V8S I bought was the first car I looked at but I reckon I've been pretty lucky.
You can read the exact details elsewhere but the V8S & S4 have a better chassis, limited slip diff, better brakes (discs all round). I have to say I do like the S1/S2 dash better, though I've read the instruments can reflect in the windscreen on these cars but have no idea how annoying this is.
I'd also say don't concentrate entirely on the car - pay attention to the seller, their attitude and whether you think you can trust them. Not an exact measure of anything but don't dismiss any signals you may get.
Happy Hunting
Chris
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 29th May 23:23
Ultimately its all service detail. Do not buy a car without a huge bundle of paperwork, bills and data. A car with a good mileage means it has at least done the miles and the niggles associated with an individual handbuilt car have been sorted. A daily driven car is an indication that it is at least reliable.
The 19,000 miler at HHC would scare the pants off me. A 13 year old + car with 19,000 miles on it would be a potential nightmare. Unless all rubbers and gaskets have been changed they perish over time etc.
My V8's regularly returns 25mpg+ - even on the 330 mile round trip ThunderBall run
to Blackpool and back when we were distinctly not dawdling 
If you hoof it, then of course...... but sitting in traffic is the usual thing that trashes the figures.
Find a good local indie - and thankfully there are a good few around. Expect to spend a few quid on upkeep. Most parts are fairly easy, but some are becoming harder to acquire, though owner ingenuity plays a part - see threads on indicator lenses for instance.
Buy the best you can, and then look after it the best you can and you won't regret it.
The 19,000 miler at HHC would scare the pants off me. A 13 year old + car with 19,000 miles on it would be a potential nightmare. Unless all rubbers and gaskets have been changed they perish over time etc.
My V8's regularly returns 25mpg+ - even on the 330 mile round trip ThunderBall run
to Blackpool and back when we were distinctly not dawdling If you hoof it, then of course...... but sitting in traffic is the usual thing that trashes the figures.
Find a good local indie - and thankfully there are a good few around. Expect to spend a few quid on upkeep. Most parts are fairly easy, but some are becoming harder to acquire, though owner ingenuity plays a part - see threads on indicator lenses for instance.
Buy the best you can, and then look after it the best you can and you won't regret it.
Tubbystu I'd agree entirely on the mileage thing - low mileage is not a good thing in my view in a car of this age.
Mine's done 65k over 15 years but personally I wouldn't be put off at any (high) mileage provided the history (and price) is right.
Also - make sure you understand fibreglass bodywork - that scratch may not be a scratch but a gel crack in the fibreglass bodywork. Similarly star cracks. All a pain in the proverbial to sort out, though it won't rust of course.
Mine's done 65k over 15 years but personally I wouldn't be put off at any (high) mileage provided the history (and price) is right.
Also - make sure you understand fibreglass bodywork - that scratch may not be a scratch but a gel crack in the fibreglass bodywork. Similarly star cracks. All a pain in the proverbial to sort out, though it won't rust of course.
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 29th May 23:21
I know what you guys mean about low mileage, and a car that has had lots of short runs over a long period and not serviced correctly would be a problem, but you would have to see the HHC car to understand what I mean. If you were in the market and price was no object you would buy it. Definitely
There was a buyers guide to the S in Thoroughbred and Classic Cars (August 2006) - p108-110
EVO had an article in Jan 2000 (no.015) - 10K buying guide which compared Porsche 944, Corrado VR6, TVR S3 and Clio Williams - pp114-124
Other articles have been Classic and Sports Car Jan 2007 (which had an S3 featured) and Classic Car Dec 1997 50yrs TVR (no specific S review though).
Hope this helps...past numbers usually available on ebay.
Cheers
EVO had an article in Jan 2000 (no.015) - 10K buying guide which compared Porsche 944, Corrado VR6, TVR S3 and Clio Williams - pp114-124
Other articles have been Classic and Sports Car Jan 2007 (which had an S3 featured) and Classic Car Dec 1997 50yrs TVR (no specific S review though).
Hope this helps...past numbers usually available on ebay.
Cheers
ketvrin said:
I know what you guys mean about low mileage, and a car that has had lots of short runs over a long period and not serviced correctly would be a problem, but you would have to see the HHC car to understand what I mean. If you were in the market and price was no object you would buy it. Definitely
My S has about 28k on it now... when i bought it had only done 23k..I have had a fair bit done but I would put that down to the age of the car rather than the mileage..
to give you an idea I have had:
recon gear box (under warranty)
new rad (under warranty)
clutch master cylinder (under warranty)
new exhaust
new clutch
new lambda sensors
new clutch slave cylinder
new hoses
new MAP sensor
new TP (hasn't everyone!!)
Apart from the above being done... which for a car of its age is maintenance really... everything else is fine...
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff