knocking noise

[vodkakid]

i have recently started to get a nocking noise from the rear of the car from pulling off and no other times!
(first time i heard this i checked over the car and found nothing, till i took one of the wheels off. which is when i found that the whole of the rear drum casing had been covered in copper grease!!!!??? now i thought that cant be right so i took as much off as i could but every now and then the nuts would get lose so and i have to clean it again) so when it happened again last night i checked the nuts but they seemed fine, what else could it be???

andy c

[johno]

As long as the copper slip is only on the outside of the casing it shouldn't cause too many issues and certainly not any knocking.

Reason for knocking at pull away ....

1 - exhaust on chassis
2 - knackered driveshaft UJ/UJ's
3 - knackered prop shaft UJ/UJ's
4 - sticking handbrake ??
5 - running over peasants

Exhaust is easy enough to spot. Play in the UJ's can be found by trying to turn the drive shaft when vehicle stationary. Should be no play at all, any play indicates wear and this is often shown up when pulling away. As is the play in the prop shaft UJ's which can be checked in the same manner. Easiest access is through the transmission tunnel from above if the tray behind the gearstick comes out. If not then you'll need to remove the cover complete.

Copper slip may cause the handbrake to stick if transferring onto inside of drum but this is unlikely to cause a knocking sound by the very nature of the cause.

Running over peasants is a tricky one and I haven't found a cure yet.

Cheers

Mark
:-)

[Dave_H]

quote:Running over peasants

One other thing, the Steve Heath book mentions the diff cradle bolts could be loose. They were on mine but I never fully got rid of the clonk till I replaced the driveshaft UJs on mine.

Cheers,

Dave.

[Greenv8s]

quote:i have recently started to get a nocking noise from the rear of the car from pulling off and no other times!

Number one suspect is a damaged CV joint, especially if it started quite suddenly and is more pronounced under heavy acceleration, with extra weight in the boot and when turning one way.

Fortunately they're quick and cheap to replace.

When I had my S2 they used to last about 18 months. Curiously in the V8S the same CVs lasted a lot better, and I usually twisted the half shaft in two before I wore the CV out. These days I'm using much bigger ones to cope with the extra power and these bits at least seem very reliable.

Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

[tvrmark]

I would agree with Peter. A CV will tend to knock repeatedly while under load. I have replaced 3 on by S3. I can't remember which but one side twice within a year and the otherside once.

Mark

[roulli]

Seems that these CV joints are underdimensioned.
Peter,
what bigger type are you using on your V8. CV joints on my S3C start to knock (70.000km) and why should I fit the standard ones if they can't take it.

Cheers - Patrick

[GreenV8S]

quote:
Seems that these CV joints are underdimensioned.
Peter,
what bigger type are you using on your V8. CV joints on my S3C start to knock (70.000km) and why should I fit the standard ones if they can't take it.

Cheers - Patrick

They're similar but bigger, 120mm instead of 100mm ish. The 500s use these bigger ones, too. I've also got thicker redesigned GKN half shafts as I kept breaking the standard thin ones. Unfortunately you can't just swap over to the 500 setup because the lengths are different. It takes quite a bit of work and will be expensive, worth it for me because having the half shafts snap every few months is no fun, replacing them regularly gets very expensive, and half shaft flex was agravating the tramping problems and stressing all the rest of the transmission. If your CVs are lasting 70k don't even consider going to these extremes. Well done by the way, on my S2 they lasted about 18 months on average!

Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

[roulli]

Peter,

thanks a lot for your details.
120mm CVs with original driveshaft, would that work as I do not believe that the V6 might shear off the driveshaft?
what Ford model are the 100mm and 120mm CVs from?
how much do they cost in uk?

thanks a lot
Cheers, Patrick

[Dave_H]

quote:
Peter,

thanks a lot for your details.
120mm CVs with original driveshaft, would that work as I do not believe that the V6 might shear off the driveshaft?
what Ford model are the 100mm and 120mm CVs from?
how much do they cost in uk?

thanks a lot
Cheers, Patrick

Patrick,

I replaced mine with the following parts from a motor factor - Ford will just work out more expensive:

CV joints (Driveshafts) ISOTrans DR3017 -Listed as Ford Granada
CV Joint boot kit - AP Lockheed Part No TBJ2042

I'm sure it worked out about £70-80 per side (2xCV joints and the boot kit)

These would be for the 100mm items.

Regards,

Dave.