Brakes binding again
Discussion
Hi Chaps ,
Meatman here after 2 year rebiuld of my S3 paint job from red to Tuscan Blue .new frame every nut and bolt bushes all new.Cost a packet !. Put her on the road, ran her for about 3 miles and all I could smell was burning . All 4 wheels locked up.
So I put new brake pipes new calipers new drum cylinders at the back ,that should do it more money out, no back on the road in to town 3 miles and bang same problem ,please can someone help as I have runout of what the hell is going on .
Could it be the drums and discs bent on the first burnout ? When the brakes go cold the wheels turn free .PLEASE HELP.
meatman
Meatman here after 2 year rebiuld of my S3 paint job from red to Tuscan Blue .new frame every nut and bolt bushes all new.Cost a packet !. Put her on the road, ran her for about 3 miles and all I could smell was burning . All 4 wheels locked up.
So I put new brake pipes new calipers new drum cylinders at the back ,that should do it more money out, no back on the road in to town 3 miles and bang same problem ,please can someone help as I have runout of what the hell is going on .
Could it be the drums and discs bent on the first burnout ? When the brakes go cold the wheels turn free .PLEASE HELP.
meatman
You have probably got the pushrod on the master cylinder adjusted up too tight. The piston in the m/c has to retract far enough to open the port to the reservoir. One way to tell is to try to push one of the front pistons back into the calliper. If it won't go, the most likely cause is m/c adjustment.
when you fitted the new brake pipes,did you also fit new flexi hoses? if not do so, some times due to deteriation of the pipe inner, the flexi works normally while cold (allowing fluid to run both ways in the pipe)but when warm they will let fluid through
when the brake is applied, but when released the fluid stays due to the pipe closing up,causing the brakes to stick on.
when the brake is applied, but when released the fluid stays due to the pipe closing up,causing the brakes to stick on.
Thanks Bigroy,
But yes all pipes changed I used Braided Hoses ,told they were the best ! AS soon as the bleed nipple is let of the brakes free ,I think it must be up at the master ? the servo is new as well ,I am stuck till tues as I can't get to the garage to work on her again.
When I get this all sorted I will post new pics of her as every part in and out of the car by the engine block is new ,thanks to gazman for the roof and all matching bits and bobs .also his shocks .
regards
Dave

But yes all pipes changed I used Braided Hoses ,told they were the best ! AS soon as the bleed nipple is let of the brakes free ,I think it must be up at the master ? the servo is new as well ,I am stuck till tues as I can't get to the garage to work on her again.
When I get this all sorted I will post new pics of her as every part in and out of the car by the engine block is new ,thanks to gazman for the roof and all matching bits and bobs .also his shocks .
regards
Dave

GreenV8S said:
You have probably got the pushrod on the master cylinder adjusted up too tight. The piston in the m/c has to retract far enough to open the port to the reservoir. One way to tell is to try to push one of the front pistons back into the calliper. If it won't go, the most likely cause is m/c adjustment.
Fully agree ,had this happen twice on different cars
Yes I think this is the problem ,I looked back at what had been changed and the servo is new ford fiesta ,but the master cylinder was left as is with remote chamber . should I put on one with integral chamber,as I am not sure what type is on it now ,I have looked at other threads some say saab and some say sierra ? Can I put on a fiesta master cylinder to complete the set.
Please let me know as I have booked the garage for next Monday to get it all done.
Regards
Dave
Please let me know as I have booked the garage for next Monday to get it all done.
Regards
Dave

I don't know which combinations will mix and match but what you need to do is get the pushrod length right so that the piston comes back to its stop at about the same point that the brake pedal/pushrod/servo assembly does. You may be able to achieve this by adjusting the servo and/or fitting spacers.
Well Chaps,
Jobs done with new servo and master cylinder from a ford fiesta xr2i , now the clutch has said its my turn to have new bits ,god it just goes on ! I put a new slave on bleed 3 times but clutch grinds in reverse and is stiff in one and two.
The garage now say time for master cylinder to be changed ,I got the slave from exeter fit chim and griff and s3 ? it had to be played with to fit got it there in the end.Now does any one know what master will match it please I don't want to go to exeter again as it was £65 for the slave and then found I could get one for £20 from ebay.
Help would be great the the party can begin for me ,I can make the next meet.
reards
Dave
Jobs done with new servo and master cylinder from a ford fiesta xr2i , now the clutch has said its my turn to have new bits ,god it just goes on ! I put a new slave on bleed 3 times but clutch grinds in reverse and is stiff in one and two.
The garage now say time for master cylinder to be changed ,I got the slave from exeter fit chim and griff and s3 ? it had to be played with to fit got it there in the end.Now does any one know what master will match it please I don't want to go to exeter again as it was £65 for the slave and then found I could get one for £20 from ebay.
Help would be great the the party can begin for me ,I can make the next meet.
reards
Dave
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