S3 Driveshafts and CV Joints
Discussion
Help please. (Before I do something I'll later regret)
Are the cv joints on an S3 retained on the driveshaft by circlips?
I've read a thread where it suggests they are not and that you can simply unclip the boot and pull the shaft out. I've also seen some conflicting information that suggests they are so the cv joints and shaft have to be pulled as a unit.
Background to this is that I am pondering how to clean up and paint the trailing arms and adjacent chassis. I'd really like to get the arms on the bench to do a decent job of it. Front suspension is off and the car is on stands so undoing the hub nuts isn't an option now. I don't fancy trying to undo the bolts at the diff end. I guess plan b would be to undo the arms and swing them on the drive shafts, suitably supported of course, which might make things a bit easier.
Grateful for any help, guidance, suggestions.
Ken
Are the cv joints on an S3 retained on the driveshaft by circlips?
I've read a thread where it suggests they are not and that you can simply unclip the boot and pull the shaft out. I've also seen some conflicting information that suggests they are so the cv joints and shaft have to be pulled as a unit.
Background to this is that I am pondering how to clean up and paint the trailing arms and adjacent chassis. I'd really like to get the arms on the bench to do a decent job of it. Front suspension is off and the car is on stands so undoing the hub nuts isn't an option now. I don't fancy trying to undo the bolts at the diff end. I guess plan b would be to undo the arms and swing them on the drive shafts, suitably supported of course, which might make things a bit easier.
Grateful for any help, guidance, suggestions.
Ken
Thanks chaps, thats very helpful.
So can I then unbolt the hub assembly from the end of the arm, ie does the inner hub pull through or does that need hub nut removed?
I'll get myself some decent allen keys, I doubt that my Poundland set is up to the job. Struggling with torque settings though, there doesn't seem to be a definitive list for the S posted, Chim/Griff listing ok?
Ken
So can I then unbolt the hub assembly from the end of the arm, ie does the inner hub pull through or does that need hub nut removed?
I'll get myself some decent allen keys, I doubt that my Poundland set is up to the job. Struggling with torque settings though, there doesn't seem to be a definitive list for the S posted, Chim/Griff listing ok?
Ken
I hope you are going to post some pictures of what you do Ken as you appear to be just ahead of me with your refurb. I'm igoring the back end at the moment until I've completed the car forward of the trailing arms... but then I will be into the area you are working on so pics would be great...
Edited by ketvrin on Wednesday 21st February 08:01
Hi,
Did my CV joints and replaced the diff about 6 months ago - as said the torx bolts were a pig to get off - one bit of advice before you start, get down to your ford dealer and order some new torx bolts to replace the ones you will mash up during removal they are from a Granada and are not expensive.
Graham
Did my CV joints and replaced the diff about 6 months ago - as said the torx bolts were a pig to get off - one bit of advice before you start, get down to your ford dealer and order some new torx bolts to replace the ones you will mash up during removal they are from a Granada and are not expensive.
Graham
They should be the same as on the sierra and therefore as on my old westfield. A top tip is to get some stiff wire and have a good poke around in the socket of the torx bolts to loosen all the old crud and then have a good blast with wd40 or compressed air and repeat until they are clean(ish). The point of doing this is that if they're not clean you won't get the torx bit fully in the socket and you stand a much better chance of breaking the bit or the bolt.
Regards,
Mark
Regards,
Mark
I've just removed mine on the diff side and they came off very easily. Will do the hub side tomorrow so hopefully that will be just the same. For the torx bits I have a set of Draper Pro series bits in a case. Covers hex and Torx in both long and short bits and costs about 25 quid and is available from most motorfactors. I've had them years and they've been very good.
Talked up trouble now though haven't I......
Talked up trouble now though haven't I......
OK, first stop Partco to look for torx bits. They have TX40 bits with 10mm hex shanks in packs of 2 for 2 quid, they'll do for now. Odd that they only had that one size, I wonder why.
Clean out the screw heads, blu-tac is useful for getting the last of the crud out. Surprised bits seem a bit sloppy in the screw and suspect that torx and tx aren't quite the same thing, one to follow up on later.
Give them a try anyway. Tx bit in socket on short t-bar, push, push, tap, tap and the first screw is mangled. Brute force and ignorance next, line everything up so that I can get a decent swing with the big hammer on the t-bar. Pull the bit as tight as I can into the screw and smack, success, the rest all came out ok. Used a mini drill with flexi-shaft to cut the mangled screw head off.
The rest was fairly straightforward, the usual problems with rusted and siezed bolts but even the arm pivot bolts came out ok once I'd worked out the right combination of sockets, extension bars and breaker bars to use. Getting the handbrake cable off is a bit of a fiddle, that spire clip with the push down tabs that looks like it should push through the backplate with the cable doesn't. You have to prise it open to clear the washer and pull it off the end of the cable.
So the first side is off, I'll post pics if anyone is interested. I think I'll try to borrow an impact wrench to to the other side, one of those hand held jobbies that you hit with hammer.
Many thanks to all for the guidance, it was a great help.
Clean out the screw heads, blu-tac is useful for getting the last of the crud out. Surprised bits seem a bit sloppy in the screw and suspect that torx and tx aren't quite the same thing, one to follow up on later.
Give them a try anyway. Tx bit in socket on short t-bar, push, push, tap, tap and the first screw is mangled. Brute force and ignorance next, line everything up so that I can get a decent swing with the big hammer on the t-bar. Pull the bit as tight as I can into the screw and smack, success, the rest all came out ok. Used a mini drill with flexi-shaft to cut the mangled screw head off.
The rest was fairly straightforward, the usual problems with rusted and siezed bolts but even the arm pivot bolts came out ok once I'd worked out the right combination of sockets, extension bars and breaker bars to use. Getting the handbrake cable off is a bit of a fiddle, that spire clip with the push down tabs that looks like it should push through the backplate with the cable doesn't. You have to prise it open to clear the washer and pull it off the end of the cable.
So the first side is off, I'll post pics if anyone is interested. I think I'll try to borrow an impact wrench to to the other side, one of those hand held jobbies that you hit with hammer.
Many thanks to all for the guidance, it was a great help.
spludge said:
They have TX40 bits with 10mm hex shanks in packs of 2 for 2 quid, they'll do for now. Odd that they only had that one size, I wonder why.
Could the reason that they had Torx 40 left be because you need Torx 45? Well mine are certainly T45. With the correct T45 bit there is no free play between the bit and the bolt head.
Good luck, and I did manage to undo all of mine without any damage to any head.
Have now got both trailing arms off and on the bench for clean up and paint. Much easier when you use the right tools, T45 bit this time and the cv joint split without me mangling the bolts.
Took an hour or two and a bucket of plus-gas to get the brake hose and bottom shock bolt out though.
Took an hour or two and a bucket of plus-gas to get the brake hose and bottom shock bolt out though.
spludge said:
So the first side is off, I'll post pics if anyone is interested. I think I'll try to borrow an impact wrench to to the other side, one of those hand held jobbies that you hit with hammer.
.
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I would like to see some pictures Ken as it sounds like what I have to look forward to in a couple of weekes ...
Kevin, posted a few pics here:
[url]http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u1[/url]
I'm not sure how much help they will be, they don't show you the how to and probably more importantly the how nots! If you are going to remove yours let me know and I'll jot down the steps I used. Step 1 is to start with the penetrating oil and I'd do that soon.
[url]http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u1[/url]
I'm not sure how much help they will be, they don't show you the how to and probably more importantly the how nots! If you are going to remove yours let me know and I'll jot down the steps I used. Step 1 is to start with the penetrating oil and I'd do that soon.
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