Rev counters and windows
Discussion
Hi there,
I have a couple of quick questions.
1. My rev counter has given up and I suspect that a wire has fraid, or come loose somewhere. Is the signal source taken from the dizzy, if so does anyone know the colour of the wire or the position –ve / +ve.
2. My electric windows are really crap. In fact the drivers side has just about given up. What are the typical repair procedures. Do I need a new motor, or can it be serviced.
Many thanks,
Z
I have a couple of quick questions.
1. My rev counter has given up and I suspect that a wire has fraid, or come loose somewhere. Is the signal source taken from the dizzy, if so does anyone know the colour of the wire or the position –ve / +ve.
2. My electric windows are really crap. In fact the drivers side has just about given up. What are the typical repair procedures. Do I need a new motor, or can it be serviced.
Many thanks,
Z
z_chromozone said:
Hi there,
2. My electric windows are really crap. In fact the drivers side has just about given up. What are the typical repair procedures. Do I need a new motor, or can it be serviced.
Many thanks,
Z
My drivers window is also painfully slow. I had the same thing on the MX-5. They cleaned up the mechanism and it worked a treat after that. Hoping its the same with the S. It's going in for a service later this month so I'll mention it then.
The rev counter is in series with the 12v supply to the coil, and works by monitoring the current pulses as the coil fires. The 3 wires will be
12v supply from the ignition switch
12v output to the coil
GND
Off the top of my head, I am not sure what the colours are, I don't have my circuit in front of me. If you disconnect the rev counter connector under the dash, the engine will not run as the coil gets no supply. You can bridge this connector temporarily so the car is useable while you take a look at the rev counter. It comes out easily by undoing a few nuts behind the dash.
Getting into the rev counter is not so easy, the front bezel is crimped onto the main body, so you have to prize it apart. You can get them serviced, search this forum archives for details.
Pete
12v supply from the ignition switch
12v output to the coil
GND
Off the top of my head, I am not sure what the colours are, I don't have my circuit in front of me. If you disconnect the rev counter connector under the dash, the engine will not run as the coil gets no supply. You can bridge this connector temporarily so the car is useable while you take a look at the rev counter. It comes out easily by undoing a few nuts behind the dash.
Getting into the rev counter is not so easy, the front bezel is crimped onto the main body, so you have to prize it apart. You can get them serviced, search this forum archives for details.
Pete
Z. Went to a motor rewind place this week and they suggested removing the machanism, taking the motor apart and cleaning the windings with white spirit. Make sure the brushes run freely and dont damage them when putting back together. Clear gearbox of all old grease and replace with new. I take it that all your guides are aligned correctly and lubricated. Im about to do this myself so let me Know how you get on.
Ginger.
PS. They also said they could supply me with new brushes
Ginger.
PS. They also said they could supply me with new brushes
The windows can be temperamental. They're quite sensitive to the runners being misaligned, and also if anyone has tried to 'improve' performance by oiling or greasing the runners this will rot the rubber causing it to expand and clamp the glass. The only solution to this is new rubbers. If you're going to lubricate the runners, use silicone rubber lubricant only. My experience aligning the runners is that it is very easy to make things worse and quite hard to make them better again. Not a job to be tackled lightly!
GreenV8S said:
The windows can be temperamental. They're quite sensitive to the runners being misaligned, and also if anyone has tried to 'improve' performance by oiling or greasing the runners this will rot the rubber causing it to expand and clamp the glass. The only solution to this is new rubbers. If you're going to lubricate the runners, use silicone rubber lubricant only. My experience aligning the runners is that it is very easy to make things worse and quite hard to make them better again. Not a job to be tackled lightly!
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll have a go at the drivers door this week if I get time and strip the motor. As the window is pretty much stuck at the moment I don't think it can get that much worse
I was going to spray PTFE along the runners and see if that helped, hopefully once the solvent has evaporated the teflon will not cause too many problems with the runners. Z
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I have had a few frustrating experiences with my dash.