TVR S1 - what to do before restart

[wamba]

Hi everyone,

I did put my S1 back together fully now, but am missing a few parts and am unsure how to find them. And what should I check and prep before trying to start up the engine again, as it was put apart completely?

Missing parts:
1) The battery is dead and my local dealer could not find one with the same size and stats. I couldn't find any specs either, only similar sizes with less charge, which supposedly would not last long. Any ideas what the actual requirements are? I forgot what my old battery has and what the dealer could find, but can look it up if needed.

2) The cylindrical coolant tank with the plastic overflow tank attached. I had unlucky timing with surprise frost right after filling the coolant system with distilled water to find and fix several leaky spots, but luckily only the top of the cylindrical tank blew off. Couldn't find a part number for this one, I guess I could have it welded, but that's plan b.


Checklist before startup:


I am 90% sure i set the distributor correctly, how would I check that the correct cylinder is trying to fire in a dry run?


The engine is lubricated and turns at 20-25nm torque, I remember the engine manual mentioning similar numbers but posting here for safety.


Valves are set, but have to be adjusted when the engine is warm. I do have to remove a lot of stuff to undo the valve covers, and I did not fit the gaskets there yes for that reason.

I had to replace the fuel line leading up to the side of the air intake, and I would assume I have to bleed that line. Will the rest of the fuel system fill up when I try to start the engine later, or do I need to bleed or check something else?


Any help and tips are appreciated, it was a journey with many setbacks to put it all back together and I am a bit scared to just try to start it up.

Thanks for reading!

[sixor8]

Not has an S1 but as far as car batteries go, anything that fits with the correct terminal orientation (i.e. positive on left or right) should do. Battery technology has moved on since it was built and they will almost all have sufficient Ah capacity and CCA available to work. Tayna list all the battery codes (they all have a number that gives you their dimensions) and may help:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/#

I would advise buying local though, returning a possible duff battery by courier can be a pain.

[wamba]

Thanks for the input, I'll just grab the one that fits then.

[NicBowman]

Engine is quite simple and robust, I would crank it over and see what happens! Soon tell if timing is right. Poor timing will mean poor running or no start, no disaster.

Good luck!

Nic

[v8s4me]

Take the plugs out, squirt some engine oil down the bores and down the push-rod tubes so the cam has plenty of oil on it before start up. Before re-fitting the plugs spin the motor over on the starter until the oil pressure gauge shows something like normal pressure. Then you can go for it.

The firing order is 1,4.2,5,3,6 so lift off the off side rocker cover, turn the engine over until both valves on No.1 cylinder are closed, find TDC and then check the distributor to see where the rotor arm is. It should be just passing HT lead No1 Wind the engine back about a 1/4 turn and then rotate forward again to where ever your static mark is (12⁰ BTDC?) and lock the distributor off there. That should be good enough to start the engine.

You can set the valve clearances cold and re-adjust when it's hot and running properly. You probably won't find there's much difference.

Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 2nd April 23:10

[88S1]

I would also check the plunger in the fuel distributor is moving freely. Mine was was stuck and needed to be freed.

https://tasteslikepetrol.net/2020/02/bosch-k-jetro...