TVR S1 cuts out when hot
Discussion
Evening all. This is my first post and so I apologise if this has been covered elsewhere. I have recently purchased a 1988 S1 2.8 and I admit I have not serviced it nor know the service history of the vehicle. The car starts and runs well but always cuts out when the engine is up to normal temperature which is making town driving very frustrating. I will of course be carrying out a major service soon but I just wondered if this is a common issue and what the resolution might be. Many thanks.
Bit of a change from a Cupra Turbo
Not familiar with the 2.8 engine and it's injection system but hopefully someone wil be along shortly with some advice.
Might also be worth joining the FaceBook group, be you a fan of FB or not that is where most of the "action" is these days although a few of us old die hards still check in here once in a while.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/tvrsseries
I would do your searches ask questions over on the TVR Wedge forum where there are many more cars running the 2.8...but, it is important that the metering head to butterfly pipe is 100% sealed. I used this as a start point on my 280DH
https://www.zeepoort.nl/jetronic/K-Jetronic-troubl...
A@
https://www.zeepoort.nl/jetronic/K-Jetronic-troubl...
A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 29th January 08:30
That could just as easily be an electrical fault but if you want to check the fuel system have a look at THIS.
Also check out the Useful Links WIKI
FB is OK for banter, chit-chat and buying/selling stuff but if you want proper technical info in a format you can follow easily with big photos stick to PH
Also check out the Useful Links WIKI
FB is OK for banter, chit-chat and buying/selling stuff but if you want proper technical info in a format you can follow easily with big photos stick to PH
Edited by v8s4me on Saturday 28th January 23:44
Another component worth checking is the ignition module. There's one on eBay at the moment HERE .
If you have another 2.8 owner locally it would be worth swapping the units over just to check yours is OK. There's no point in buying a unit of unknown quality unless it's for beer money. Mind you, that one on eBay is the equivalent to a round of 6 pints down south
If you have another 2.8 owner locally it would be worth swapping the units over just to check yours is OK. There's no point in buying a unit of unknown quality unless it's for beer money. Mind you, that one on eBay is the equivalent to a round of 6 pints down south
If it cuts out when you come to a stop and restarts again it is most likely an air leak after the metering unit. It could be a leak in the hose connecting to the throttle body or even a leak into the plenum chamber. With the car idling try spraying engine start around anywhere there could be a leak. If the engine speeds up you have a leak. I have had this problem a few times and on one occasion I had to tighten the bolts holding the plenum down.
Dave
Dave
i had a similar issue with one of my Tasmins:
i started well...i drove it several miles...and the engine died on traffic-light...and i could not start anymore. 15min later it started again.
everbody is thinking now: it must be fuel related...nope it wasnt: the ignition amplifier, which sits at the Tasmin front-left in enginebay, had a corroded connector...sounds im-plausible, but it was true.
i started well...i drove it several miles...and the engine died on traffic-light...and i could not start anymore. 15min later it started again.
everbody is thinking now: it must be fuel related...nope it wasnt: the ignition amplifier, which sits at the Tasmin front-left in enginebay, had a corroded connector...sounds im-plausible, but it was true.
It could be everything and nothing in the same time. It's very hard to find a failure when you don't have the history of the car. It could be the fuel system, or the ignition system. For example, last week, one of my mate has similar troubles on his 90's fuel ignition car. The engine was starting well, running well until the engine is warm. The engine start to struggle more and more at low rev and finish to stall. Pretty impossible to restart. In fact, the problem was just outdated spark plugs ....
It could be plugs, leads, ignition module etc. For the fuel system, other member proposals are good, look at the lines and accumulator. But on the K-JETRONIC there is a dedicated circuit for cold start and cold running. This circuit is cut off when the engine is warm. So if your injection system just need to be tuned, it's possible the engine is running fine when cold, and has troubles when warm.
It could be plugs, leads, ignition module etc. For the fuel system, other member proposals are good, look at the lines and accumulator. But on the K-JETRONIC there is a dedicated circuit for cold start and cold running. This circuit is cut off when the engine is warm. So if your injection system just need to be tuned, it's possible the engine is running fine when cold, and has troubles when warm.
Those symptoms shout ignition amp or coil falling over when hot. I'd start by looking at spark quality cold vs hot.
ie See how far you can get the spark to jump to earth.
1 Engine cold. Pull the king lead off the distributor cap and hold it close to the engine (use rubber pliers and gloves)
2. Get someone to crank the engine then observe the spark whilst slowly making the gap bigger until it no longer jumps. Make a note how big that gap is.
3. Warm engine up to point where its hot and fault occurs (ie it stops)
4 Repeat step 2. If the gap is smaller then its either the amp or the coil.
ie See how far you can get the spark to jump to earth.
1 Engine cold. Pull the king lead off the distributor cap and hold it close to the engine (use rubber pliers and gloves)
2. Get someone to crank the engine then observe the spark whilst slowly making the gap bigger until it no longer jumps. Make a note how big that gap is.
3. Warm engine up to point where its hot and fault occurs (ie it stops)
4 Repeat step 2. If the gap is smaller then its either the amp or the coil.
Sorry to come in late, I confess I don't visit the site that often anymore as there is far more action on our FB page now.
However I have had a 2.8S1 for about 15 years now and have learnt a fair bit about them as I do most of the work myself.
Do we a quick test please. About how long from cold does this happen? If you run the car up to temperature while standing at home does it do it? Now try running it up to temperature with the bonnet wide open, does it still do it?
What I am trying to do is test the ignition module, normally on the nearside inner bulkhead. They do start to break down over time and if it is original it could well be the cause. As the module starts to heat up it fails, often quite suddenly, the car cools and it mysteriously works OK again. Bonnet up it stays cooler and runs for longer, probably doesn't fail.
Test that and come back to me, then we can progress further. (I will put a tag on this post to notify me if there is a response)
Air leaks are a big issue with the K Jetronic but they cause various running problems rather than the engine cutting out when warm.
However I have had a 2.8S1 for about 15 years now and have learnt a fair bit about them as I do most of the work myself.
Do we a quick test please. About how long from cold does this happen? If you run the car up to temperature while standing at home does it do it? Now try running it up to temperature with the bonnet wide open, does it still do it?
What I am trying to do is test the ignition module, normally on the nearside inner bulkhead. They do start to break down over time and if it is original it could well be the cause. As the module starts to heat up it fails, often quite suddenly, the car cools and it mysteriously works OK again. Bonnet up it stays cooler and runs for longer, probably doesn't fail.
Test that and come back to me, then we can progress further. (I will put a tag on this post to notify me if there is a response)
Air leaks are a big issue with the K Jetronic but they cause various running problems rather than the engine cutting out when warm.
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