V8S service intervals and basics?
Discussion
Sorry if this has been done before, but I couldn't find anything and am new to my V8S. And with no TVR specialists in the country, it will fall to me...
So service every 6k miles.
Oil and oil filter.
Is there anything special to note about the RV8 when draining the oil and removing the filter? Is there a need to prime the oil system afterwards?
How often should the plugs be changed?
Anything else to be done?
And what has to be done on longer services?
Thanks in advance.
One last thing, where is best to get plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm? (or just Google and get the best deal?)
So service every 6k miles.
Oil and oil filter.
Is there anything special to note about the RV8 when draining the oil and removing the filter? Is there a need to prime the oil system afterwards?
How often should the plugs be changed?
Anything else to be done?
And what has to be done on longer services?
Thanks in advance.
One last thing, where is best to get plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm? (or just Google and get the best deal?)
The engine is a 'Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8'.
I recommend you leave the rotor arm, distributor cap, leads and plug extenders alone unless/until they start causing trouble. It's pretty common to see maintenance induced failures.
You need to grease the propshaft UJs and check the condition of brakes, suspension bushes, steering joints and so on. Renew the diff and transmission oil occasionally. Flush the brake fluid every few years or whenever it gets overheated. Renew the coolant every few years by draining a small amount and topping up with fresh concentrate to ensure the corrosion inhibitor doesn't get depleted. And a big part of it is just running your hands over everything and looking for things that are loose, seized, corroded, broken, too much play and so on.
I recommend you leave the rotor arm, distributor cap, leads and plug extenders alone unless/until they start causing trouble. It's pretty common to see maintenance induced failures.
You need to grease the propshaft UJs and check the condition of brakes, suspension bushes, steering joints and so on. Renew the diff and transmission oil occasionally. Flush the brake fluid every few years or whenever it gets overheated. Renew the coolant every few years by draining a small amount and topping up with fresh concentrate to ensure the corrosion inhibitor doesn't get depleted. And a big part of it is just running your hands over everything and looking for things that are loose, seized, corroded, broken, too much play and so on.
Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 5th October 15:44
https://www.tvr-car-club.co.uk/uploads/9/5/1/5/951...
"And with no TVR specialists in the Country" Which Country do you live in?
There are a lot of poor quality service items out there! As Peter says, don't go changing dizzy cap etc. unless you have an issue.
Propshaft UJ's is a funny one, by the 90's vast majority of manufacturers were using "sealed for life" but seems like TVR's went for Land Rover UJ's with grease nipples, somewhat more necessary in the extreme conditions a Land Rover may find itself used in than a little sports car that does few miles and many never even venture out if it's wet
It's a good idea to at least part fill the filter before screwing it on but unless the engine is left for any considerable time without oil and filter priming oil pump is not required.
Personally I like to pull the HT lead and spin engine over till pressure comes up on gauge.
"And with no TVR specialists in the Country" Which Country do you live in?
There are a lot of poor quality service items out there! As Peter says, don't go changing dizzy cap etc. unless you have an issue.
Propshaft UJ's is a funny one, by the 90's vast majority of manufacturers were using "sealed for life" but seems like TVR's went for Land Rover UJ's with grease nipples, somewhat more necessary in the extreme conditions a Land Rover may find itself used in than a little sports car that does few miles and many never even venture out if it's wet
It's a good idea to at least part fill the filter before screwing it on but unless the engine is left for any considerable time without oil and filter priming oil pump is not required.
Personally I like to pull the HT lead and spin engine over till pressure comes up on gauge.
Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 5th October 07:52
Keep an eye on electrical connectors and make sure they are clean.
Check the HT leads are well away from the exhaust manifolds.
Check the various earth connections and make sure they are secure and clean.
Have a look at the fuse/relay board and make sure it all looks OK - eg no evidence of overheating.
Does the car still have the dreadful yellow connecter under steering column? If it does replace with something more robust. It will fail, it's just a matter of when and perhaps more importantly, where!
Check the handbrake cable is free to move.
Change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done for a few years and while you're down there, check the condition of the fuel hoses, especially the one from the bottom of the tank.
There really isn't that much to do. Most problems are electrical so it's mostly a case of prevention being better than cure.
Check the HT leads are well away from the exhaust manifolds.
Check the various earth connections and make sure they are secure and clean.
Have a look at the fuse/relay board and make sure it all looks OK - eg no evidence of overheating.
Does the car still have the dreadful yellow connecter under steering column? If it does replace with something more robust. It will fail, it's just a matter of when and perhaps more importantly, where!
Check the handbrake cable is free to move.
Change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done for a few years and while you're down there, check the condition of the fuel hoses, especially the one from the bottom of the tank.
There really isn't that much to do. Most problems are electrical so it's mostly a case of prevention being better than cure.
Thanks guys, very much appreciate it.
I'm in Ireland, there was an official service agent up near Belfast, but they closed this year due to retirement from what I gather. The only other option is taking time off and getting a ferry/ B&B and go to the UK. But that is time and money.
On the HT leads and dizzy cap- I have a slight miss at certain revs. between 2400 and 3000 rpm. Mostly around 2400 rpm. So I was thinking of buying new ones and swapping them out one by one. Worst case it doesn't solve it, but no harm in having spares anyway.
Philpot- that service check list is great. Thanks!
I'm in Ireland, there was an official service agent up near Belfast, but they closed this year due to retirement from what I gather. The only other option is taking time off and getting a ferry/ B&B and go to the UK. But that is time and money.
On the HT leads and dizzy cap- I have a slight miss at certain revs. between 2400 and 3000 rpm. Mostly around 2400 rpm. So I was thinking of buying new ones and swapping them out one by one. Worst case it doesn't solve it, but no harm in having spares anyway.
Philpot- that service check list is great. Thanks!
Beast Master said:
........ I have a slight miss at certain revs. between 2400 and 3000 rpm. Mostly around 2400 rpm.
Check those HT leads, particularly the one at the back on the passenger side. Make sure there's been no contact with the exhaust manifold.As Phillpot says - it's a very simple car so do it yourself and avoid being ripped off by a "specialist".
A Rovergauge is a worthwhile investment.
Again thanks all.
Ireland does have a thriving rally and classic scene. I just need to find a classic garage that I trust. And I doubt many would have any experience of a TVR. But as you say, it's nothing fancy.
Just on the plug leads, Racing Green have three different options of varying price - Land Rover OEM, OEM replacement and I can't remember what the 3rd one is. And then Racetechdirect has a "uprated" set that is not a bad price.
Any preference or recommendations?
Ireland does have a thriving rally and classic scene. I just need to find a classic garage that I trust. And I doubt many would have any experience of a TVR. But as you say, it's nothing fancy.
Just on the plug leads, Racing Green have three different options of varying price - Land Rover OEM, OEM replacement and I can't remember what the 3rd one is. And then Racetechdirect has a "uprated" set that is not a bad price.
Any preference or recommendations?
I'll examine the current plug leads and see it they touch anything. They do lie flush on one of the rocker covers, but I presume they all do that?
I see Rovergauge on Ebay, so I will buy one. Where is the port in the car to connect it to?
I see Rovergauge on Ebay, so I will buy one. Where is the port in the car to connect it to?
Edited by Beast Master on Wednesday 5th October 19:52
While help is always available online I would recommend (on the assumption you have some basic and competent mechanical skills) getting a copy of the Haynes 'Classic Range Rover' manual - https://haynes.com/en-gb/land-rover/range-rover/19...
Plus a copy of the 'Bible' by Steve Heath. While not a comprehensive as the name suggests, it does shed a lot of light on how the S was thown together. - https://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/product/the-tvr-s-serie... I'm sure we [as a autonomous collective] can get a copy to Ireland.
Not sure if this would be of any help. Dodgey author. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382920887272
Plus a copy of the 'Bible' by Steve Heath. While not a comprehensive as the name suggests, it does shed a lot of light on how the S was thown together. - https://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/product/the-tvr-s-serie... I'm sure we [as a autonomous collective] can get a copy to Ireland.
Not sure if this would be of any help. Dodgey author. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382920887272
Beast Master said:
I'll examine the current plug leads and see it they touch anything. They do lie flush on one of the rocker covers, but I presume they all do that?
There should be clisp on the side of each rocker box, like this ...
Beast Master said:
....I see Rovergauge on Ebay, so I will buy one. Where is the port in the car to connect it to?....
This is the connector...
You'll find it in the mess of wiring spaghetti around the ECU.
Any good OEM quality HT leads will do, you don't need fancy competition stuff.
Pretty surprised that nobody's approach the oil grade/quality subject. The Range V8 engine has regular tappets and camshaft wear problems.
It seems that using an oil with a good zinc content (ZDDP) with a high viscosity (20W50), and closer service (3000 miles) is recommended to prevent premature cam wear.
It seems that using an oil with a good zinc content (ZDDP) with a high viscosity (20W50), and closer service (3000 miles) is recommended to prevent premature cam wear.
mk1fan said:
While help is always available online I would recommend (on the assumption you have some basic and competent mechanical skills) getting a copy of the Haynes 'Classic Range Rover' manual - https://haynes.com/en-gb/land-rover/range-rover/19...
Plus a copy of the 'Bible' by Steve Heath. While not a comprehensive as the name suggests, it does shed a lot of light on how the S was thown together. - https://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/product/the-tvr-s-serie... I'm sure we [as a autonomous collective] can get a copy to Ireland.
Not sure if this would be of any help. Dodgey author. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382920887272
Thanks. I actually bought the Guide to Buying before I bought. :-) Good tips on the other two books. I'll get family in the UK to get the bible for me.Plus a copy of the 'Bible' by Steve Heath. While not a comprehensive as the name suggests, it does shed a lot of light on how the S was thown together. - https://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/product/the-tvr-s-serie... I'm sure we [as a autonomous collective] can get a copy to Ireland.
Not sure if this would be of any help. Dodgey author. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382920887272
v8s4me said:
This is the connector...
You'll find it in the mess of wiring spaghetti around the ECU.
Any good OEM quality HT leads will do, you don't need fancy competition stuff.
Thanks! Sorry for another stupid question, where is the ECU located?You'll find it in the mess of wiring spaghetti around the ECU.
Any good OEM quality HT leads will do, you don't need fancy competition stuff.
(No more stupid questions from this point!) ;-)
Fefeu52 said:
Pretty surprised that nobody's approach the oil grade/quality subject. The Range V8 engine has regular tappets and camshaft wear problems.
It seems that using an oil with a good zinc content (ZDDP) with a high viscosity (20W50), and closer service (3000 miles) is recommended to prevent premature cam wear.
That is a good tip on reduced service intervals. Any recommendation on a brand/ range with a high ZDDP that you use?It seems that using an oil with a good zinc content (ZDDP) with a high viscosity (20W50), and closer service (3000 miles) is recommended to prevent premature cam wear.
Fefeu52 said:
Pretty surprised that nobody's approach the oil grade/quality subject. The Range V8 engine has regular tappets and camshaft wear problems.
It seems that using an oil with a good zinc content (ZDDP) with a high viscosity (20W50), and closer service (3000 miles) is recommended to prevent premature cam wear.
A good quality synthetic oil deals with that problem. It seems that using an oil with a good zinc content (ZDDP) with a high viscosity (20W50), and closer service (3000 miles) is recommended to prevent premature cam wear.
ECU - It's under the dash, behind the glovebox. Pull the carpet down and the whole lot will fall into the footwell.
Oil - Valvoline VR 20W/50 is perfect for the old RV8 lump. There's no need to spend silly money on fancy fully synthetic racing oil for normal road use. The engine was designed to run on treacle
Oil - Valvoline VR 20W/50 is perfect for the old RV8 lump. There's no need to spend silly money on fancy fully synthetic racing oil for normal road use. The engine was designed to run on treacle
Thanks all. I used Halfords Classic oil in my Triumph, but for some reason my local Halfords stopped stocking their range of oils this year. I'll try a different branch.
Looking at the documents that came with the car, it used to be getting either 10w50 or 10w40 fully synthetic at services from a TVR specialist.
Does it make much of a different going with 20w50?
Looking at the documents that came with the car, it used to be getting either 10w50 or 10w40 fully synthetic at services from a TVR specialist.
Does it make much of a different going with 20w50?
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