Diff and cradle
Discussion
The diff and its cradle are stuck together and I can't extract them from the chassis like that.
The body is off so I can get at it properly. The propshaft and driveshafts are all disconnected, and the 3 rubber mounts have all been removed. I've removed the 4 bolts that appear to secure the diff to the cradle but they stilll won't separate. I've applied a certain amount of tyre lever and club hammer but don't want to risk cracking the casting.
Has anyone else experienced this - I coudn't see anything in a search on here. Is there anything other than the four bolts that needs releasing? Is it just dissimilar metal corrosion?
The body is off so I can get at it properly. The propshaft and driveshafts are all disconnected, and the 3 rubber mounts have all been removed. I've removed the 4 bolts that appear to secure the diff to the cradle but they stilll won't separate. I've applied a certain amount of tyre lever and club hammer but don't want to risk cracking the casting.
Has anyone else experienced this - I coudn't see anything in a search on here. Is there anything other than the four bolts that needs releasing? Is it just dissimilar metal corrosion?
Thanks for the photos, I've removed all those bolts already but the cradle and diff still won't separate. I'll have to try being a bit more persuasive with the hammer I suppose.
By the way that set of bits on your car is almost disturbingly clean. I've still got 34 years of dirt, grease, waxoyl etc to remove from mine.
By the way that set of bits on your car is almost disturbingly clean. I've still got 34 years of dirt, grease, waxoyl etc to remove from mine.
The 'more hammer' approach worked and I've got the diff and cradle out, separately. I'm currently at a state near to your first photo but with a few more bits removed.
The most difficult bit so far is the Torx bolts in the driveshafts. I managed to undo the inner joints and nearside outer but so far only 1 bolt from the offside outer joint. In 40 years or so of fiddling with cars I'd never damaged a socket before. I've now wrecked 4 just trying to take those bolts out! 3 snapped and 1 twisted like a spiral cut gear. The last one was an impact rated socket that snapped on the first bolt I tried it on despite using an ordinary non-impact handle. Can I ask what you used or did to extract them?
The most difficult bit so far is the Torx bolts in the driveshafts. I managed to undo the inner joints and nearside outer but so far only 1 bolt from the offside outer joint. In 40 years or so of fiddling with cars I'd never damaged a socket before. I've now wrecked 4 just trying to take those bolts out! 3 snapped and 1 twisted like a spiral cut gear. The last one was an impact rated socket that snapped on the first bolt I tried it on despite using an ordinary non-impact handle. Can I ask what you used or did to extract them?
I just used my Halfords socket set, don’t remember any issue getting them loosened off and my car was as about as bad as it gets (as can be seen in photo, everything rusted). Maybe a few gentle taps with a hammer on the head and a bit of heat might help.
Edited by 88S1 on Monday 1st August 12:36
Still struggling with the Torx bolts, but anyway for the next instalment of my "how do you dismantle this?" series: ARB drop links.
I've searched the forum and can see quite a few people have replaced the drop links. What I can't find is how to undo the nut that attaches it to the lower wishbone. There's not enough clearance at the top to get a ring spanner or socket on, and the flanges either side fit an open-ended spanner so closely it has no useful movement.
I've searched the forum and can see quite a few people have replaced the drop links. What I can't find is how to undo the nut that attaches it to the lower wishbone. There's not enough clearance at the top to get a ring spanner or socket on, and the flanges either side fit an open-ended spanner so closely it has no useful movement.
Not unusual for a driveshaft joint bolt to be a ****** to get out!
I would modify Phillpots advice slightly, use one of the modern 1mm slitting discs and cut the head off with care. Slitting disc generates much less heat than grinding off.
The MAJOR word of advice after that is NOT to use TORX screws again!! TORX were designed for easy machine installation, not for servicing. They need to be removed under axial pressure, as provided by a machine, pretty well impossible to do that by hand. Once out you need to get hex head socket heads, they MUST be 12.9 extra high tensile (the more usual 8.8 high tensile will NOT do!!). You can order them dead easily on line from a REPUTABLE supplier. I would always recommend Unbrako. Do not buy on ebay unless Unbrako is specified, there are some fake 12.9 bolts out there. And get them proper tight!!
Once in and tight I suggest you paint a white line on each one and check from time to time that none have moved.
We have had cars lose drive shaft joints while out on runs, including abroad!
I would modify Phillpots advice slightly, use one of the modern 1mm slitting discs and cut the head off with care. Slitting disc generates much less heat than grinding off.
The MAJOR word of advice after that is NOT to use TORX screws again!! TORX were designed for easy machine installation, not for servicing. They need to be removed under axial pressure, as provided by a machine, pretty well impossible to do that by hand. Once out you need to get hex head socket heads, they MUST be 12.9 extra high tensile (the more usual 8.8 high tensile will NOT do!!). You can order them dead easily on line from a REPUTABLE supplier. I would always recommend Unbrako. Do not buy on ebay unless Unbrako is specified, there are some fake 12.9 bolts out there. And get them proper tight!!
Once in and tight I suggest you paint a white line on each one and check from time to time that none have moved.
We have had cars lose drive shaft joints while out on runs, including abroad!
Looks like they ran out of metal scraps when they made that one. It's unusual even for TVR - must have been a similar PITA for them to get the drop link attached.
Judging by the amount of corrosion around there and the fact you can't get at the back of it, your chances of unscrewing it are slim to none. Time for a slotting wheel to cut the head off. If you're repairing the chassis, consider replacing that tiny scrap of metal with one the right size so you can position the hole properly.
Judging by the amount of corrosion around there and the fact you can't get at the back of it, your chances of unscrewing it are slim to none. Time for a slotting wheel to cut the head off. If you're repairing the chassis, consider replacing that tiny scrap of metal with one the right size so you can position the hole properly.
Thanks for all the tips which were very helpful. I'd not heard of a slitting disc before but got one from Toolstation and now I'm a convert too.
I got 2 of the Torx bolts out in the end but had to cut the heads off the other 4. Once I'd pulled the driveshaft off, the stubs did indeed come out using just mole grips. The drop links were also cut the same way so I could extract the ARB and lower wishbones. Similar problems with 2 of the bolts on the O/S lower ball joint were resolved with a normal grinding disc. The thought occurred to me that if anyone ever says anything about TVRs falling apart they should be given the job of dismantling the suspension on one!
Anyway that's all the suspension off
Just the engine/clutch/gearbox unit to come out when I can borrow a hoist - I've got the bolts loosened off for that already - and that will be the chassis stripped down. Phase 2 then begins, refurbishing all the bits.
I got 2 of the Torx bolts out in the end but had to cut the heads off the other 4. Once I'd pulled the driveshaft off, the stubs did indeed come out using just mole grips. The drop links were also cut the same way so I could extract the ARB and lower wishbones. Similar problems with 2 of the bolts on the O/S lower ball joint were resolved with a normal grinding disc. The thought occurred to me that if anyone ever says anything about TVRs falling apart they should be given the job of dismantling the suspension on one!
Anyway that's all the suspension off
Just the engine/clutch/gearbox unit to come out when I can borrow a hoist - I've got the bolts loosened off for that already - and that will be the chassis stripped down. Phase 2 then begins, refurbishing all the bits.
phillpot said:
SimonS1 said:
phillpot said:
SimonS1 said:
Just the engine/clutch/gearbox unit to come out when I can borrow a hoist
where are you located?
, hopefully I've got a loan of one much closer arranged.Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff