Outrigger Repairs
Discussion
About to embark on this before they get too bad - the o/s leading edge looks close to holing 
I have sourced the tubing (38mm, 16G, CDMS)no problem. Does anyone know the thickness of the (triangular)plate used at the corners - looks like 3-4mm to me.
Have a good welder on hand who is happy to take on the work providing we can lift the body sufficiently to gain access.
Any tips on lifting the few inches needed ? - not sure I've located all the relevant bolts yet.
The rest of the chassis is near perfect so I'm reluctant to go for a full body-off job.
I'll be at SCH3 if anyone is prepared to offer advice/support.
Cheers
Darren
>> Edited by mowog on Tuesday 9th August 15:16
I have sourced the tubing (38mm, 16G, CDMS)no problem. Does anyone know the thickness of the (triangular)plate used at the corners - looks like 3-4mm to me. Have a good welder on hand who is happy to take on the work providing we can lift the body sufficiently to gain access.
Any tips on lifting the few inches needed ? - not sure I've located all the relevant bolts yet.
The rest of the chassis is near perfect so I'm reluctant to go for a full body-off job.
I'll be at SCH3 if anyone is prepared to offer advice/support.
Cheers
Darren
>> Edited by mowog on Tuesday 9th August 15:16
Don't forget the bolts under the seatbelt reels (not just behind them) and the bolts in the middle under the dash. I just reused my plates from the edges, so can't help there.
You can jack the car in stages so that it rests on woodblocks at the mounting points. Just insert as you jack from one end then repeat the process from the other. Using a good load spreader on the floor section should lift the front and rear. Make sure you remove the bolt holding on the boot opening strut as it fouls the fuel tank (access between the tank and the wheelwell with a thin spanner and mole grips on the other end).
If you are removing and rewelding the seatbelt mountings a good tip I found is that you can put a thin straight welding rod through the inner and outer ones right the way through the car and they are all in a straight line.
If you need any more tips let us know, there are many on here that have done the same job.
Z
You can jack the car in stages so that it rests on woodblocks at the mounting points. Just insert as you jack from one end then repeat the process from the other. Using a good load spreader on the floor section should lift the front and rear. Make sure you remove the bolt holding on the boot opening strut as it fouls the fuel tank (access between the tank and the wheelwell with a thin spanner and mole grips on the other end).
If you are removing and rewelding the seatbelt mountings a good tip I found is that you can put a thin straight welding rod through the inner and outer ones right the way through the car and they are all in a straight line.
If you need any more tips let us know, there are many on here that have done the same job.
Z
Z - the dash bolts you refer to - are they on either side of the 'tunnel' and if so can they be accessed by removing the centre consol and carpet.
Do I need to disconnect any other fuel/electric/hydraulic connections?
How much clearance do you need actually between body/outrigger to get in and make a tidy weld?
Many thanks for the advice.
D
Do I need to disconnect any other fuel/electric/hydraulic connections?
How much clearance do you need actually between body/outrigger to get in and make a tidy weld?
Many thanks for the advice.
D
good luck - loads of pentrating oil on the body mounts before trying to release them. Might need to undo steering column before raising body. Reckon the plates are 3-4 mm - I would drill the holes after the body is reattached then you know it will line up properly. Do not forget the captive nuts holding the seat belts anchorage !!!
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