Fuel Filter, Pump & Relay
Discussion
The fuel relay (plugged in the fuse board) looks like it's getting quite hot on one of the 5 pins (marked 87)Plastic case is looking a bit warped!. I have been looking for a correct replacement relay and am told there is a pink looking relay that Ford originally did (my local ford dealer has one for £15.53 + vat) which I thought was a bit expensive.
Is there an alternative relay (make, part number, cost?).
I am being told that this overheating of my relay is caused by the fuel pump trying to work too hard, which I am told could be due to the fuel filter restricting the flow. I have fitted a new fuel filter (Big cylindrical thing next to the fuel distributor cap thingy) but seem to still have a whining noise coming from the pump.
Is there another filter somewhere else? or something else which could be restricting the flow?
Where is the fuel pump located?
Is it likely that my pump is goosed? Are they expensive/easy to fit?
Any other suggestions?
It was working fine until last week!!!
Thanks
Paul.
Is there an alternative relay (make, part number, cost?).
I am being told that this overheating of my relay is caused by the fuel pump trying to work too hard, which I am told could be due to the fuel filter restricting the flow. I have fitted a new fuel filter (Big cylindrical thing next to the fuel distributor cap thingy) but seem to still have a whining noise coming from the pump.
Is there another filter somewhere else? or something else which could be restricting the flow?
Where is the fuel pump located?
Is it likely that my pump is goosed? Are they expensive/easy to fit?
Any other suggestions?
It was working fine until last week!!!
Thanks
Paul.
As detailed int bible...
Relay seems about right. No alternative.
There may be a second filter on/in the fuel tank itself. Check the piping hasn't collapsed. The pump could have just died. If the car has stood around it may have filled with dirt and died. Around £150 ish for a new one. Good opportunity to check and replace the pipework.
Pump is usually around the back of the car next to the filter. Might be upfront near the engine. You never can tell with an S1!
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Relay seems about right. No alternative.
There may be a second filter on/in the fuel tank itself. Check the piping hasn't collapsed. The pump could have just died. If the car has stood around it may have filled with dirt and died. Around £150 ish for a new one. Good opportunity to check and replace the pipework.
Pump is usually around the back of the car next to the filter. Might be upfront near the engine. You never can tell with an S1!
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Blimey, that was a quick reply shpub!
I'll try the new relay and see what improvements that produces. If there is something causing the overheating I would like to trace it as at £20 a pop for a relay, I could spend a few quid over the year.
The car hasn't been stood for a long time, used at least once a week.
Do you know if the pump is specific to TVR or if its of the Capri MKIII/Sierra 4X4/Granada? (like the other bits).
Thanks,
Paul.
I'll try the new relay and see what improvements that produces. If there is something causing the overheating I would like to trace it as at £20 a pop for a relay, I could spend a few quid over the year.
The car hasn't been stood for a long time, used at least once a week.
Do you know if the pump is specific to TVR or if its of the Capri MKIII/Sierra 4X4/Granada? (like the other bits).
Thanks,
Paul.
Paul,
Had exactly the same problem in my S1 in February (suggest you check out 'Fuel pump help' Feb 23rd). From memory I think the cause was a chafed wire on the back of the fuse/relay holder due to the way it had been mounted. Looking back DG charged me £32 for the pleasure of supplying the relay so looks like your price is reasonable. In hindsight though I'm now not sure whether all the starting effects I saw were down to changing the relay as I'm still working that one.
Chris Page
Had exactly the same problem in my S1 in February (suggest you check out 'Fuel pump help' Feb 23rd). From memory I think the cause was a chafed wire on the back of the fuse/relay holder due to the way it had been mounted. Looking back DG charged me £32 for the pleasure of supplying the relay so looks like your price is reasonable. In hindsight though I'm now not sure whether all the starting effects I saw were down to changing the relay as I'm still working that one.
Chris Page
Mine overheated because there was a short from the circuit to the radiator cooling fan. The relay holder for the 'pink' relay got very hot and melted. You have got a good price for the relay - I paid over 20 quid for mine !!
The motor spares place had a 'bible' of relays - they can be matched up from the pin numbers.
The motor spares place had a 'bible' of relays - they can be matched up from the pin numbers.
I have found the reason for the overheating, a corroded connection on the fuse panel at the back of the relay holder. The 2 supply wires are on one crimped connector, and the wires are split and broken in parts. This would explain the melting problem.
I have put a new relay in, and now the car won't fire up!
I have checked for duff fuses, spark and fuel coming through (as I put on a new fuel filter), but no luck.
Do I have to re-set anything else?
Cheers
Paul
(had to get the train this morning!! - not happy!)
I have put a new relay in, and now the car won't fire up!
I have checked for duff fuses, spark and fuel coming through (as I put on a new fuel filter), but no luck.
Do I have to re-set anything else?
Cheers
Paul
(had to get the train this morning!! - not happy!)
Gatts said: I have found the reason for the overheating, a corroded connection on the fuse panel at the back of the relay holder. The 2 supply wires are on one crimped connector, and the wires are split and broken in parts. This would explain the melting problem.
I have put a new relay in, and now the car won't fire up!
I have checked for duff fuses, spark and fuel coming through (as I put on a new fuel filter), but no luck.
Do I have to re-set anything else?
Cheers
Paul
(had to get the train this morning!! - not happy!)
In an emergency, wire the pump direct to the battery. While I was tracking down a suspected wiring fault that turned out to be a duff relay, I took to keeping a couple of bits of wire the right length just in case I got stuck. Remember to disconnect when you park!
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
Dear all,
The fuel relay looks like a red herring - bought the bonafide replacement from Fords and the car still wont fire.
I discovered the coil had a 12v supply to both connectors - unplugged the tacho and it fired up but would not keep running.
A fault must have developed somewhere which is sending a feed from the tacho back up the signal wire to the coil - dodgy tacho? or break in the wiring loom somewhere else causing this effect?
Checked all the fuse box for continuity - ok. Checked for continuity on the connectors from the ignition unit - ok. The Ballast resistor seems to check out, coil checks out (on ignition and crank mode), distributor checks out, fuel relay is ok, fuel is present.
The engine fires after a couple of cranks, then as I release the key to run position (from crank position), the engine dies. It's as though there is problem with the ignition unit thinking the engine has been turned off?
I am going to get an ignition unit from the scrap yard to test this theory.
Would the ignition unit suffer from heat? as my earlier problem of the car not starting when hot has not been resolved yet - the two might be connected?
Possibly the signal from the Distributor to the Ignition module failing after firing?
Any idea's?
Paul.
The fuel relay looks like a red herring - bought the bonafide replacement from Fords and the car still wont fire.
I discovered the coil had a 12v supply to both connectors - unplugged the tacho and it fired up but would not keep running.
A fault must have developed somewhere which is sending a feed from the tacho back up the signal wire to the coil - dodgy tacho? or break in the wiring loom somewhere else causing this effect?
Checked all the fuse box for continuity - ok. Checked for continuity on the connectors from the ignition unit - ok. The Ballast resistor seems to check out, coil checks out (on ignition and crank mode), distributor checks out, fuel relay is ok, fuel is present.
The engine fires after a couple of cranks, then as I release the key to run position (from crank position), the engine dies. It's as though there is problem with the ignition unit thinking the engine has been turned off?
I am going to get an ignition unit from the scrap yard to test this theory.
Would the ignition unit suffer from heat? as my earlier problem of the car not starting when hot has not been resolved yet - the two might be connected?
Possibly the signal from the Distributor to the Ignition module failing after firing?
Any idea's?
Paul.
Problem found - typically obvious and very embarrassing......solved it with £4 worth of PETROL!
ARRRRGGGHHHH!.
My fuel sender is not working, but I thought I had plenty left! That's why my fuel pump was making a funny noise - it was pumping fumes!
There was a bit of fuel in my fuel filter, but only enough to fire the engine, not enough to keep it running - easy mistake to make!!!!
Thanks all,
Paul.
(Ashamed S1 owner.)
ARRRRGGGHHHH!.
My fuel sender is not working, but I thought I had plenty left! That's why my fuel pump was making a funny noise - it was pumping fumes!
There was a bit of fuel in my fuel filter, but only enough to fire the engine, not enough to keep it running - easy mistake to make!!!!
Thanks all,
Paul.
(Ashamed S1 owner.)
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