Steering rack…
Discussion
I’m almost ready for that TUV now but…
My car is LHD. I have some play on the rhs track rod. Looking at the pics on other threads about this, the shim adjustment is on the end where the steering shaft is.
Do these shims also adjust play at the opposite end of the rack or only on that end?
If I need to replace, is it best to remove the rack from above or underneath and with or without removing the bonnet? I find it damned awkward getting under there. Probably something to do with the size of my stomach….
BTW I was idly looking through the docs today and found that I’ve had the car 19 years!
The longest I have had any car by far.
My car is LHD. I have some play on the rhs track rod. Looking at the pics on other threads about this, the shim adjustment is on the end where the steering shaft is.
Do these shims also adjust play at the opposite end of the rack or only on that end?
If I need to replace, is it best to remove the rack from above or underneath and with or without removing the bonnet? I find it damned awkward getting under there. Probably something to do with the size of my stomach….
BTW I was idly looking through the docs today and found that I’ve had the car 19 years!
The longest I have had any car by far.
I have also a problem of play in one of my track rod arm, in fact in the ball joint at the end of the steering rack. Each side of the rack has shims to adjust the play in each ball joint. You have to remove the big female ball housing with a pipe wrench, to see if there are shims to adjust.
The shims only adjust out any play at the pinion. I recently had my S2 rack refurbed by an outfit in wales for £75 plus £10 postage plus vat. (I'll look up the name and address when i get home)They mentioned that if you drill out the pegs at the inner ball joints you can adjust these to take out any slack. I was tempted to do it myself but at the price decided to let them do it.
You can easily remove and replace the rack from underneath with the car on ramps, it is only 4 bolts, the triangular end of the uj, and the track rod ends to undo. it comes out on the drivers side. no need to remove the bonnet or anything else except the front wheels. it doesnt take many minutes to take out. though longer to adjust when you put it back.
nb I used blocks of wood and fishing line to do the tracking. When I took it to garage to be checked on their lase kit they said it was bob on - no adjustment necessary, ( so it can be done the old fashioned way!).
You can easily remove and replace the rack from underneath with the car on ramps, it is only 4 bolts, the triangular end of the uj, and the track rod ends to undo. it comes out on the drivers side. no need to remove the bonnet or anything else except the front wheels. it doesnt take many minutes to take out. though longer to adjust when you put it back.
nb I used blocks of wood and fishing line to do the tracking. When I took it to garage to be checked on their lase kit they said it was bob on - no adjustment necessary, ( so it can be done the old fashioned way!).
Edited by lewdon on Friday 17th September 16:23
Someone's 'aving a larf. This is the reply I got from a specialist German company.
"Dear Mr. Deitch,
Thank you for your inquiry here at our company.
We can offer you the repair of your own steering gear as follows.
Steering gear repair Opel Kadett for € 599.00 gross including shipping.
Repair time 10 - 12 days from delivery date.
Sincerely, Schneider"
Oh I forgot, it's the gold plated version!
"Dear Mr. Deitch,
Thank you for your inquiry here at our company.
We can offer you the repair of your own steering gear as follows.
Steering gear repair Opel Kadett for € 599.00 gross including shipping.
Repair time 10 - 12 days from delivery date.
Sincerely, Schneider"
Oh I forgot, it's the gold plated version!
Just to state the obvious, and teaching my grandmother to suck eggs. play in the steering can be in 5 different places.
It is worth spending a little time working out exactly where the play is before doing anything.
1) At the pinion, this is often easy to fix by removing shims from under the plate above the pinion. being careful not to make the rack too tight at full lock.
2) The inner ball joints. I am told that the slack can be adjusted out of these by drilling out the peg that stops them unscrewing. I have never done this, I opted to get these reconditioned by experts.
3) and of course the track rod end ball joints which are cheap and easy to replace.
4) the bearing where the steering column goes through the bulkhead, any slack here allows the column to move laterally instead of moving the wheels
5) the column universal joints
Or any combination of the 5.
It is worth spending a little time working out exactly where the play is before doing anything.
1) At the pinion, this is often easy to fix by removing shims from under the plate above the pinion. being careful not to make the rack too tight at full lock.
2) The inner ball joints. I am told that the slack can be adjusted out of these by drilling out the peg that stops them unscrewing. I have never done this, I opted to get these reconditioned by experts.
3) and of course the track rod end ball joints which are cheap and easy to replace.
4) the bearing where the steering column goes through the bulkhead, any slack here allows the column to move laterally instead of moving the wheels
5) the column universal joints
Or any combination of the 5.
Well I still have to take it off. Yesterday was my wedding anniversary and now we're off on holiday but...
this the the company. https://www.autodoc.de/elstock/8975387
Not sure it it is exactly the right Chevette model but I will contact them before I send it in.
this the the company. https://www.autodoc.de/elstock/8975387
Not sure it it is exactly the right Chevette model but I will contact them before I send it in.
In the UK many of us have used Kiley Clinton Ltd to overhaul these rack - including me.
http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
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