Substrate for Vaneer Dash
Discussion
I’m starting a new project for my S, to re-veneer the dash. Common topic i know, but i read so many varying suggestions. Most are; do not veneer directly to steel plates as the veneer will split and expand over time but instead use birch, MDF or ply backing board (substrate). I’ve read 0.8 mm thick but god only knows where to find 0.8 thick x 2m long backing board. Or alternatively, does anyone have different with ideas or a better way. I found a nice chap at www.thewoodvaneerhub.co.uk for the walnut burl.
Hello
I haven't actually re-veneered my Wedge yet (although it sorely needs it!) but I am a woodworker who has done plenty of veneering. I think the .8mm is referring to a veneer thickness. I would go for Baltic birch plywood, which is available from 3mm thickness and up (you used to be able to get 1/16th" but I haven't seen that for a while). It is very good quality and lends itself to veneering. Remember that with veneering you need to lay the veneer in the opposite direction to what is under it, i.e. if you look at a piece of plywood and the grain runs from the bottom of the narrower width to the top, then the veneer you apply needs to go on horizontally/at right angles to it; you also need to put a backing veneer on the hidden side to provide stability and equalise wood movement, because although veneer is thin it does respond to changes in moisture (plenty of that in a TVR!). That's the problem with the splitting veneers in the cars - the veneer has been glued to a non-wood substrate and no allowance has been made for wood's behaviour. Although finishing the veneer with a very tough finish will limit this movement it will not prevent it.
I hope that helps.
John
I haven't actually re-veneered my Wedge yet (although it sorely needs it!) but I am a woodworker who has done plenty of veneering. I think the .8mm is referring to a veneer thickness. I would go for Baltic birch plywood, which is available from 3mm thickness and up (you used to be able to get 1/16th" but I haven't seen that for a while). It is very good quality and lends itself to veneering. Remember that with veneering you need to lay the veneer in the opposite direction to what is under it, i.e. if you look at a piece of plywood and the grain runs from the bottom of the narrower width to the top, then the veneer you apply needs to go on horizontally/at right angles to it; you also need to put a backing veneer on the hidden side to provide stability and equalise wood movement, because although veneer is thin it does respond to changes in moisture (plenty of that in a TVR!). That's the problem with the splitting veneers in the cars - the veneer has been glued to a non-wood substrate and no allowance has been made for wood's behaviour. Although finishing the veneer with a very tough finish will limit this movement it will not prevent it.
I hope that helps.
John
On the 'S' the steel dash plate curves very slightly so if you want to veneer onto a substrate it will need to be thin enough to take up the curve. The steel plate is quite flexible so you would need to allow for this.
The thinnest ply I have worked with is about 3mm. This si quite flexible but I'm not sure it would be flexible enough. You'd need to try a piece.
Some 'S' owners have used Formica. It looks great and is unaffected by sunlight, temperature & moisture. Worth looking into.
The thinnest ply I have worked with is about 3mm. This si quite flexible but I'm not sure it would be flexible enough. You'd need to try a piece.
Some 'S' owners have used Formica. It looks great and is unaffected by sunlight, temperature & moisture. Worth looking into.
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