TVR S1 2.8i only runs on brake cleaner
Discussion
Hello TVR guys and girls
Merry christmas and a happy new year!
I have the following issue:
My TVR S1 V6 2.8i will only start and run on brake cleaner.
The Bosch K-Jetronic is filled with petrol, as are the lines to the injectors.
I've also checked the ignition and timing that's all good.
What could be the problem or what should I check?
Thanks in advance !!!!
Merry christmas and a happy new year!
I have the following issue:
My TVR S1 V6 2.8i will only start and run on brake cleaner.
The Bosch K-Jetronic is filled with petrol, as are the lines to the injectors.
I've also checked the ignition and timing that's all good.
What could be the problem or what should I check?
Thanks in advance !!!!
How much is brake cleaner per gallon these days?
the 2.8 injection system is not the best/simplest, I have no experience (except knowing to keep away from it) but hopefully a knowledgeable S1 owner will be along soon although it's pretty quiet here on PH now-a-days
A lot more activity on the S Series FaceBook Group . . . . . https://www.facebook.com/groups/tvrsseries
I spent a very long time getting my 2.8 to run sweetly and once you understand K-jet it is very, very simple. If you have adequate pressure throughout the system it's going to run. Mine had stood for 12 years in a garage without running.
Mine was hard to start, and I found a series of faults in the system, the most significant of which was a split O ring in the distributor pressure relief valve.
Basically I had weak pressure exiting the distributor because fuel just bypassed the valve to return to the tank. Its also worth bearing in mind that the tiny plastic filters inside the injectors can deteriorate. Replacing the injectors and fitting a new 'motorsport' high pressure pump transformed my car after I got it running.
I bought the Haynes Fuel Injection manual which covers every type of injection system from 1979 to 1989. ISBN is 1 85010 590 1
To solve your problem you really need a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure in various parts of the system. When you turn the ignition on the pump should be running and pressurising the system. By measuring the pressure to the fuel filter next to the distributor you can see if the pump is at fault.
Assuming the pump is good (about 5 bar from memory) you then move through the rest of the system.
After fixing the problem you need to adjust the idle and the mixture using an exhaust gas analyser.
Don't be tempted to just throw parts at it as that gets pricey fast. If you are struggling there are a small number of specialists who can help, chief amongst these is probably Ric Wood in Stockport. My car was going to be getting dumped there to be fixed if I hadn't managed to find it myself.
Mine was hard to start, and I found a series of faults in the system, the most significant of which was a split O ring in the distributor pressure relief valve.
Basically I had weak pressure exiting the distributor because fuel just bypassed the valve to return to the tank. Its also worth bearing in mind that the tiny plastic filters inside the injectors can deteriorate. Replacing the injectors and fitting a new 'motorsport' high pressure pump transformed my car after I got it running.
I bought the Haynes Fuel Injection manual which covers every type of injection system from 1979 to 1989. ISBN is 1 85010 590 1
To solve your problem you really need a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure in various parts of the system. When you turn the ignition on the pump should be running and pressurising the system. By measuring the pressure to the fuel filter next to the distributor you can see if the pump is at fault.
Assuming the pump is good (about 5 bar from memory) you then move through the rest of the system.
After fixing the problem you need to adjust the idle and the mixture using an exhaust gas analyser.
Don't be tempted to just throw parts at it as that gets pricey fast. If you are struggling there are a small number of specialists who can help, chief amongst these is probably Ric Wood in Stockport. My car was going to be getting dumped there to be fixed if I hadn't managed to find it myself.
Sorry Tohomas my advice about Ric Wood is not very helpful as I see you are in Belgium! If you can find a classic VW, Porsche, Mercedes or Peugeot specialist near to you they may have equipment and knowledge.
If you don't have gauges, check that relief valve O ring is good and a simple place to start. You could also pull the seventh injector (cold start injector) which has a blue connector on the right hand side of the plenum chamber and see if it squirts OK (into a glass jar).
That saves you pulling the plenum chamber and checking the six main injectors which is a pain. You are looking for good pressure at that injector, if not work backwards from there to the distributor.
If you don't have gauges, check that relief valve O ring is good and a simple place to start. You could also pull the seventh injector (cold start injector) which has a blue connector on the right hand side of the plenum chamber and see if it squirts OK (into a glass jar).
That saves you pulling the plenum chamber and checking the six main injectors which is a pain. You are looking for good pressure at that injector, if not work backwards from there to the distributor.
I don't think you can recondition the pumps but there are kits for the fuel distributor, however, I would not crack open the fuel distributor as they are apparently a nightmare to rebuild due to the very fine tolerances. Reconditioned distributors are available.
To do the relief valve there are kits but I just used an air conditioning O ring that was exactly the right size. The green one in this picture: http://www.bosch-classic.com/en/internet/bosch_cla...
To do the relief valve there are kits but I just used an air conditioning O ring that was exactly the right size. The green one in this picture: http://www.bosch-classic.com/en/internet/bosch_cla...
GreenV8S said:
In that case you'd check pressure on the supply side of the injection unit. Also worth checking whether the air metering flap is moving.
Good shout - the plunger gunges up - mine needed a good soaking in carb cleaner. It can be done without opening the distributor, but you need to remove it and be very careful not to drop the plunger, again, fine tolerances mean the slightest scratch could cause it to fail.If you do have good fuel pressure (5 bar approx.) check also for air leaks and that the auxiliary air valve is open when cold (it can be removed, cleaned and tested on boiling water.
There's also something very simple you can check very quickly. See the pipe in the the picture below...
First check that the pipe is attached at both ends! Then make sure it is not blocked. Also check the area where the pipe connects into the ribbed rubber moulding on top of the flap housing...
Make sure there are no splits or cracks. Any air leaks in this part of the system wiil prevent the engine from starting. This component is a common source of problems on an otherwise simple and easy to set up system.
First check that the pipe is attached at both ends! Then make sure it is not blocked. Also check the area where the pipe connects into the ribbed rubber moulding on top of the flap housing...
Make sure there are no splits or cracks. Any air leaks in this part of the system wiil prevent the engine from starting. This component is a common source of problems on an otherwise simple and easy to set up system.
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