Discussion
Penelope Stopit said:
OBD1 or OBD2 doesn't fit the TVR S - The connector is a triangular 3-pin connector dating from the early days of steam I think. If you want to read codes on a TVR S, either buy or borrow the correct STAR tester, or use the "count the flashes" method with a test lamp and a bit of wire.Or discover, like I did, that the diagnostic socket doesn't work anyway so save your time and money!
tvrgit said:
OBD1 or OBD2 doesn't fit the TVR S - The connector is a triangular 3-pin connector dating from the early days of steam I think. If you want to read codes on a TVR S, either buy or borrow the correct STAR tester, or use the "count the flashes" method with a test lamp and a bit of wire.
Or discover, like I did, that the diagnostic socket doesn't work anyway so save your time and money!
Understood, the advert mentions EECIV, hence the postOr discover, like I did, that the diagnostic socket doesn't work anyway so save your time and money!
Wonder how much is involved to make it compatible
Ok I've slipped up
Didn't notice the $340 shipping charge
Penelope Stopit said:
Understood, the advert mentions EECIV, hence the post
Wonder how much is involved to make it compatible
you can probably connect it up with little bits of wire with the correct terminals on the end - probably! TBH, it's a lot easier to figure out where to put a bit of wire and a test lamp.Wonder how much is involved to make it compatible
Penelope Stopit said:
Didn't notice the $340 shipping charge
I did! Also noticed that it's listed as "currently unavailable" in any case, so you'll save the shipping charge as well! tvrgit said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Understood, the advert mentions EECIV, hence the post
Wonder how much is involved to make it compatible
you can probably connect it up with little bits of wire with the correct terminals on the end - probably! TBH, it's a lot easier to figure out where to put a bit of wire and a test lamp.Wonder how much is involved to make it compatible
Penelope Stopit said:
Didn't notice the $340 shipping charge
I did! Also noticed that it's listed as "currently unavailable" in any case, so you'll save the shipping charge as well! Ok then, it's not the first time I've made a proper fool of myself
Agreed, lamp and cable keeps it simple and cheap
Here's a Gunson 77032 that seems to be available. It's what I've been using for years.
All the testing is done by the ECU. The code reader can only prod it to do its thing, and read the results. The Gunson gives out a sequence of three-digit codes (actually, the first digit is zero, so it's 2 digits) which you can write down. More elaborate testers may remember and recall the readings, or even turn them into English, but there aren't any other tests they can do. All the testing is done by the ECU.
I prefer to do my own interpretation using (for example) the book by Charles O Probst. Although this is American, and doesn't mention the Cologne or any other 'foreign engine', the codes are the same and there's a wealth of data and technical description which takes you into how the system works.
The connection on the Gunson doesn't match the plug on our cars. But it's simple enough to connect:
The connector on the car has 3 wires:
blue/green, which goes to ECU pin 48 (STI: Self-test input),
brown/green, which goes to ECU 17 (STO: Self-test output) and
brown, which goes to ECU 40 and others (Signal return).
If you can find a 3-pin connector with these coloured wires (mine's a flat affair with male pins) then you're holding the diagnostic plug!
The Gunson has:
green, ECU STI
blue, ECU STO
red, Signal return
Other code readers may vary. The Gunson also has a separate power supply, which has a long red cable with a crocodile clip to reach the battery +ve.
So it's just a matter of connecting them up. Scotchloks are fine for this non-critical application.
The first time I used mine, all I could get was code 015 KAM (Keep-alive memory) test failed. So I checked ECU pin 1 for a permanent 12V feed to the memory, and it wasn't connected. I fitted a (fused) permanent live from the radio, and I had codes!
But then I had 041 and 042: no HEGO switch detected. So I checked the Lambdas (mine's an S3C): both dead.
So I replaced those, and worked my way through MAP, TPS (bad connections) and ISC (duff idle valve) problems.
So before all that, my engine was running continuously open-loop, and failing to remember its self-generating operating map. No wonder I had problems: it was over-fuelling all the time.
So: £30 for the Gunson, and £30 for the book, was a bargain to me!
Good luck!
All the testing is done by the ECU. The code reader can only prod it to do its thing, and read the results. The Gunson gives out a sequence of three-digit codes (actually, the first digit is zero, so it's 2 digits) which you can write down. More elaborate testers may remember and recall the readings, or even turn them into English, but there aren't any other tests they can do. All the testing is done by the ECU.
I prefer to do my own interpretation using (for example) the book by Charles O Probst. Although this is American, and doesn't mention the Cologne or any other 'foreign engine', the codes are the same and there's a wealth of data and technical description which takes you into how the system works.
The connection on the Gunson doesn't match the plug on our cars. But it's simple enough to connect:
The connector on the car has 3 wires:
blue/green, which goes to ECU pin 48 (STI: Self-test input),
brown/green, which goes to ECU 17 (STO: Self-test output) and
brown, which goes to ECU 40 and others (Signal return).
If you can find a 3-pin connector with these coloured wires (mine's a flat affair with male pins) then you're holding the diagnostic plug!
The Gunson has:
green, ECU STI
blue, ECU STO
red, Signal return
Other code readers may vary. The Gunson also has a separate power supply, which has a long red cable with a crocodile clip to reach the battery +ve.
So it's just a matter of connecting them up. Scotchloks are fine for this non-critical application.
The first time I used mine, all I could get was code 015 KAM (Keep-alive memory) test failed. So I checked ECU pin 1 for a permanent 12V feed to the memory, and it wasn't connected. I fitted a (fused) permanent live from the radio, and I had codes!
But then I had 041 and 042: no HEGO switch detected. So I checked the Lambdas (mine's an S3C): both dead.
So I replaced those, and worked my way through MAP, TPS (bad connections) and ISC (duff idle valve) problems.
So before all that, my engine was running continuously open-loop, and failing to remember its self-generating operating map. No wonder I had problems: it was over-fuelling all the time.
So: £30 for the Gunson, and £30 for the book, was a bargain to me!
Good luck!
Edited by mentall on Friday 18th December 17:07
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