Chassis painting
Discussion
I haven't used it or previously heard of it, but the requirements and limitations listed at this site seem to be rather onerous compared with other products, particularly the requirement to overpaint with a second specialist coating when exposure to corrosive conditions (eg salty roads) is likely :
https://www.promain.co.uk/fosroc-galvafroid-anti-c...
BOB
https://www.promain.co.uk/fosroc-galvafroid-anti-c...
BOB
frontfloater said:
I haven't used it or previously heard of it, but the requirements and limitations listed at this site seem to be rather onerous compared with other products, particularly the requirement to overpaint with a second specialist coating when exposure to corrosive conditions (eg salty roads) is likely :
https://www.promain.co.uk/fosroc-galvafroid-anti-c...
BOB
Thanks Bob, interesting spec documenthttps://www.promain.co.uk/fosroc-galvafroid-anti-c...
BOB
My Dad painted our new Landie 2a rear cross member with Galvafroid and it held up fine for ten years (1970's), no rust when we sold the beast onwards. There are better things to use these days though.
I had mine painted by Global Coatings in Knutsford, Cheshire who specialise in blasting and painting equipment for mining, notably stuff that sits on North Sea oil rigs for 20 years.
Not expensive at all surprisingly.
I had mine painted by Global Coatings in Knutsford, Cheshire who specialise in blasting and painting equipment for mining, notably stuff that sits on North Sea oil rigs for 20 years.
Not expensive at all surprisingly.
Bercilac said:
My Dad painted our new Landie 2a rear cross member with Galvafroid and it held up fine for ten years (1970's), no rust when we sold the beast onwards. There are better things to use these days though.
I had mine painted by Global Coatings in Knutsford, Cheshire who specialise in blasting and painting equipment for mining, notably stuff that sits on North Sea oil rigs for 20 years.
Not expensive at all surprisingly.
Thanks for that, good looking job on the chassisI had mine painted by Global Coatings in Knutsford, Cheshire who specialise in blasting and painting equipment for mining, notably stuff that sits on North Sea oil rigs for 20 years.
Not expensive at all surprisingly.
Unfortunately I have little faith in powder coating given the state of the chassis once I had her stripped but I suppose the original job was done using techniques that are now 30 years old, the chassis hasn't been re coated for 30 years and I'm guessing techniques and materials have improved over the same period.
Just can't get the image out of my head that once the PC is compromised, moisture works it's way under and blows huge areas of coating, that's all.
S2Mick said:
Thanks for that, good looking job on the chassis
Unfortunately I have little faith in powder coating given the state of the chassis once I had her stripped but I suppose the original job was done using techniques that are now 30 years old, the chassis hasn't been re coated for 30 years and I'm guessing techniques and materials have improved over the same period.
Just can't get the image out of my head that once the PC is compromised, moisture works it's way under and blows huge areas of coating, that's all.
Whilst I'm on, don't suppose you know the purpose of the small phillips head screw that screws into the top of the upper wishbone is do you ?Unfortunately I have little faith in powder coating given the state of the chassis once I had her stripped but I suppose the original job was done using techniques that are now 30 years old, the chassis hasn't been re coated for 30 years and I'm guessing techniques and materials have improved over the same period.
Just can't get the image out of my head that once the PC is compromised, moisture works it's way under and blows huge areas of coating, that's all.
Bercilac said:
There are better things to use these days though.
S2Mick said:
Unfortunately I have little faith in powder coating given the state of the chassis once I had her stripped
You can't compare the genuine powder coating, which was a single polyester layer, and a great current 3-layer powder coating. The first layer is a zinc-rich one, to give a galvanic protection, the second layer is an epoxy one, to give the strength, and the last one is polyester to give the U-V resistance, to keep the colour. I have already used this solution for different classic car subframes and steel wheels. For me,this is the best and most durable solution.
S2Mick said:
88S1 said:
S2Mick said:
Whilst I'm on, don't suppose you know the purpose of the small phillips head screw that screws into the top of the upper wishbone is do you ?
My S1 doesn’t have any Phillips screw on the upper wishbone. Take a photo to show what you are referring to, this would help. No, I don't know why either.
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