New TVR Owner, 1990 S3 with a question

[stryker14]

Hello, I am a first time TVR owner, a 1990 S3 that runs, but has no brakes and cooling system needs overhaul.

Regarding the brakes, they are old and rusted. I am planning to replace everything on the brakes except for the brake hard lines.

I have looked a the updated parts compatibility list. I can easily get the front calipers/ rotors/ brake hoses for the front. I was thinking about just replacing the whole front wheel spindle, hub knuckle along with the brakes. However, I cannot find what the spindle/hub/knuckle comes from? I assume a Sierra/XR4TI, is that true? If so, I cannot find them available for sale. Any idea? Or am I left with cleaning my existing ones up?

It is not completely necessary for me to replace the spindle/hub/knuckle. I thought it might just make life easier with less clean up labor.

I tried uploading a picture but was unable to do so.

Thanks!

Edited by stryker14 on Wednesday 19th August 15:41

[mentall]

Here you go

Fifth post down.

I found this with Google: <<TVR S Series front hubs site: pistonheads.com>>
Leave out the <<>>>

This type of search is pretty reliable.

And a very warm welcome to this site! All the banter has gone to Facebook, but the knowledge is still very much here!

PS All the way from America! Even more welcome!

Edited by mentall on Wednesday 19th August 16:11

[magpies]

Hello and welcome to one of the best forums

There is also a very active chat facebook page - TVR S Series Owners & Enthusiasts

There are several threads on here regarding the top and bottom balljoints as well as the upgraded discs and callipers.

If there are any nearby race/rally prep places then have a chat about fitting stainless steel braided hoses instead of the rubber hoses is also a good upgrade and gives a firmer pedal.

[v8s4me]

stryker14 said:

................. I assume a Sierra/XR4TI, is that true? If so, I cannot find them available for sale. Any idea? Or am I left with cleaning my existing ones up?......

Welcome to the wonderful world of 'S' ownership. Yes they are Sierra. You'd be better off keeping the old ones. Any you're like to find on eBay will be just as old as yours and probably higher mileage.

[phillpot]

As Joe says, any you find will probably be as cruddy as yours? Get the wire brush out

Was also used on Chimaera and Griffith


Here's one, clicky

The hub carrier (D) is Ford but the set up is very different on a TVR to a Sierra or Merkur was it you called it over there?

[stryker14]

Thanks for that diagram. Yes called a Merkur over here. I think I’ll try to clean mine up. I see the bearings are easy to get to if I decide I want to replace those.

[Bercilac]

My S1 had done 38,000 miles when I got it and the bearings were absolutely fine. I replaced the brake rotors and pads with standard items from a company called Brakes International in the UK, £35 including VAT and UK delivery.

I also fitted Goodridge braided hoses, new calipers, a new servo and master cylinder (the servos rot underneath here in dreary Britain) and all the hard brake lines.

Something to watch for is the little T piece in the brake circuit which is often Imperial not Metric, but the rest of the system is Metric. I replaced mine with Metric :-)

I also used ATE Super Blue brake fluid (which is now yellow thanks to the European Nanny State) and I find the brakes really quite effective enough for hard road use. I know people often uprate brake parts on these but I don't feel that's necessary on a road car, track use, maybe harder pads.

Finally, on the subject of hydraulics, I replaced the clutch master and slave using Landrover items (£25 the pair here) which use a 3/16ths pipe instead of the 1/4 inch but work fine, I detected no difference in operation (new three part clutch fitted).

Your S3 is a great choice, I reckon it is the sweet spot for V6 cars, very tuneable and well sorted. In contrast I think the S1 is a bit more rough and ready in places, simpler, though I dearly love mine!

[phillpot]

stryker14 said:

I see the bearings are easy to get to if I decide I want to replace those.

.... Apart from the big (41mm) nut, 35, that's torqued to 240 lb/ft



..... and be careful getting the dust cap, 36, off. they are getting hard to find.

[v8s4me]

stryker14 said:

Thanks for that diagram. Yes called a Merkur over here. I think I’ll try to clean mine up. I see the bearings are easy to get to if I decide I want to replace those.

If the bearings are OK then leave them alone. They are better than anything you can buy now. Even the ones supplied by the TVRCC are made in India.

See THIS THREAD and if you do need new ones jump to the last post.

Try finding old info like that on Facebook!

[mentall]

It's very worthwhile to replace the flexi-rigid-flexi setup on the front brakes with a single long flexible. This is the standard 290S kit that
HEL and others sell.
You'll need to do a bit of inventing to route the pipe safely, but it gives a better pedal feel and less parts to fail in future.

[sebackman]

Hi stryker14,

I have a complete set of brakes, front (calipers&discs) and rear (caliper & drum + rear hubs with bearings), from a 25k 1990 TVR S3. In good condition and many miles left in them. New pads for disks included.

Also have a full set of shocks in good condition. (Upgraded to adjustable)

I have had her since new so I know the condition and that mileage is accurate.

I upgraded the chassis a few years ago to rear discs and bigger brakes in front. They have been sitting since.

Sent me a PM if you are interested.

Kind regards
//Rob

[v8s4me]

sebackman said:

.....Also have a full set of shocks in good condition....

You should definitely grab those

[stryker14]

Mine actually have spax adjustable in good shape!

I’ll probably go with the single brake line. That makes a lot of sense to bypass the short hard line. Thanks!

Thanks for all the responses everyone!

Ted

[stryker14]

Bercilac, what Land Rover did u get the master and servo setup from? Right now I’m about to order a replacement for just over 400 BP. Thanks

[phillpot]

I think it's the clutch master and slave that can be replaced with Land Rover parts

have you found the "Alternative Parts List" on here? ........ clicky

[Bercilac]

Yes clutch bits: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-...

Works great, you just need to make up a 3/16th clutch pipe. You could get all fancy pants and make a flexi one but I had kunifer lying around and fittings to use up.

Some folks reckon the clutch is heavier with a smaller bore hydraulic setup but honestly I can't tell the difference. I figured if it worked on a landie then the Ford V6 clutch shouldn't be much different in terms of weight.