Drive shaft CV joints?

[AJC77]

Hi All,

Last time Topcats inspected my S1.5 they reported play in the driveshaft CV joints, so thinking I’ll get them replaced.

I’ve seen these on eBay listed for an S3. Are the driveshaft CV joints the same size across all the V6 variants? I.e. 100mm as listed here?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131878327091

Thanks all.

Edited by AJC77 on Wednesday 13th May 12:16

[GreenV8S]

As far as I know, 100mm 25 spline is standard on all the S series (including the V8S). Later TVR models used the bigger 108mm 28 spline joints.

[AJC77]

Thank you

[TJC46]

Do you really want to be buying those cv joints off ebay ? especially at £19.99 each including the gaitor and grease.

Save yourself time and future problems and buy quality CV joints.

I should know, i made the same mistake with one of them destroying itself within weeks of fitting .

Link below to quality CV joints.

https://www.prolinx.biz/Catalogue/Drive-Shaft-Comp...

[AJC77]

Ah ok, so the J&R stuff is likely poor quality then? They’re (apparently) British made and have a 2yr unlimited mileage warranty, but indeed I don’t want to fit rubbish and throw good money after bad.

[phillpot]

Got the J&R ones on my S, as have quite a few others I believe, not had an issue? Can't find the reciept but was a few years and a few 'enthusiastic' miles ago

Our litttle v6's aren't putting the same kind of torque and power through them as a V8?



looks like it was 2014 ....... Old PH thread

[88S1]

I bought some J&R for my S1 recently. Not on the car yet so can’t comment on the longevity of them, but if you go on J&R website they are slightly cheaper. £77 delivered for the 4.

The gaiters are a very tight fit and need some washing up liquid to get on. And you only get 1 new circlip per joint (2 required), so make sure you don’t throw the rear one away. Quality looked good, wasn’t disappointed with them.

Edited by 88S1 on Wednesday 13th May 18:53

[AJC77]

Thanks phillpot

Reading that old thread it suggests it’s an easy job? Is it as simple as bolt out bolt in? Or do you need to drop the driveshafts out?

[AJC77]

Thanks 88S1

And that photo probably answers my fitting question too lol

[GreenV8S]

phillpot said:

Our litttle v6's aren't putting the same kind of torque and power through them as a V8?

On mine the weak point is consistently the half shafts not the CV joint - that's with 400+ lb-ft going through uprated half shafts.

[88S1]

AJC77 said:

Thanks 88S1

And that photo probably answers my fitting question too lol

Ive stripped my whole car down to the chassis, so didn’t try to do it in situ, but would think you can unbolt and drop the whole shaft out, which may make life easier in the long run, getting the joints of my shafts wasn’t the easiest, but my car has a lot of corrosion, photo shows the end of one of the shafts.

[TVRees]

Also, use some good quality torx/hex bits to remove the bolts (they can be a bit tough to get out, especially when corroded) and fit 10.9/12.9 new bolts and torque 'em up properly.

[v8s4me]

If my experience was anything to go by the Torx bolts can be a right bstrd to get off. As said above, get yourself a very good quality Torx bit and a decent impact driver. If you have a friendly garage nearby you might save yourself a lot of grief by asking them to get the bolts started for you with their air gun. I ended up having to cut the heads off with a disc cutter. That was fun! Once the heads were off and the friction bond between the head and the drive shaft flange was broken I found I could unscrew the bolts with my fingers.
Good luck

[AJC77]

Thanks all.

My current plan is to ask Topcats to do them when I take it for an MoT and brake fluid change.

It sounds a stretch for me at home.

[phillpot]

88S1 said:

And you only get 1 new circlip per joint (2 required), so make sure you don’t throw the rear one away.

I thought they came with the 'big end' already attached to the pressed steel thing, no clip required?

[88S1]

phillpot said:

88S1 said:

And you only get 1 new circlip per joint (2 required), so make sure you don’t throw the rear one away.

I thought they came with the 'big end' already attached to the pressed steel thing, no clip required?

It’s the circlips that hold the bearing to the shaft. There’s 1 each side of the bearing on the splines, so 2 in total per bearing, but only 1 new one comes with the new part. You need to remove both to get the new gaiter on the shaft.

Edited by 88S1 on Thursday 14th May 17:41

[phillpot]

88S1 said:

It’s the circlips that hold the bearing to the shaft.

Circlips ... my mistake !


Thinking about it, i may have re-used the originals? The ones supplied were thinner and didn't 'fill' the groove in the shaft?

[88S1]

phillpot said:

88S1 said:

It’s the circlips that hold the bearing to the shaft.

Circlips ... my mistake !


Thinking about it, i may have re-used the originals? The ones supplied were thinner and didn't 'fill' the groove in the shaft?

I think I did too, for same reason.

[zombeh]

Whether you get the right circlips would likely depend on what car the joint was being sold for and what design of shaft they thought it was attached to. There are several different ends on the Ford depending on exactly which one and they have different clips.

The ones that don't fit are for the shaft that doesn't have the "snap here" inner circlip groove

[88S1]

zombeh said:

Whether you get the right circlips would likely depend on what car the joint was being sold for and what design of shaft they thought it was attached to. There are several different ends on the Ford depending on exactly which one and they have different clips.

The ones that don't fit are for the shaft that doesn't have the "snap here" inner circlip groove

Makes sense,