Discussion
(1990 S3C, the late type of motor/drive)
The rigid cable drive is at present above/behind the wiper spindles.
I'm going to try reversing this so the cable is below/ahead of the spindles.
Has anybody tried this? Can you foresee any snags? Two that occur to me are finding space for the motor, and altering the self-parking arrangements.
This is to create enough space for a different heater which will have proper distribution valves, a fresh-air inlet and fan air to the airvents on the dash. More on this exciting project later.
The rigid cable drive is at present above/behind the wiper spindles.
I'm going to try reversing this so the cable is below/ahead of the spindles.
Has anybody tried this? Can you foresee any snags? Two that occur to me are finding space for the motor, and altering the self-parking arrangements.
This is to create enough space for a different heater which will have proper distribution valves, a fresh-air inlet and fan air to the airvents on the dash. More on this exciting project later.
Single blade system?????????????????????????
Many have one https://petrolblog.com/2014/06/10-best-single-wipe...
Many have one https://petrolblog.com/2014/06/10-best-single-wipe...
At the moment, the wipers go anticlock - clockwise on alternate strokes (viewed from the bonnet). This will be unchanged. They won't wipe the bonnet, as I'll fit them on the splines so that they continue to wipe the screen.
The area of screen that they travel is about 140 degrees from the park position, but its 'start' position is currently at 'full-pull' on the cable, as set by the park switch.
When altered, the park position will be at 'full-push' if I can re-rig the park switch. As the drive is a plain crank, the stroke will be unchanged.
I think I believe myself, but I have nothing better to do at the moment than to try it!
Mike, I love to see unsynchronised wipers on buses etc; maybe not so much on a Trevor.
PP: I had a CX years ago. It didn't rock when the wiper was running, but that was because of the self-levelling......
My ideal would be 3 wipers like the Series 1 E-Type; they would fit the S screen much better. Sadly my MGB, being British spec., only had 2.
The area of screen that they travel is about 140 degrees from the park position, but its 'start' position is currently at 'full-pull' on the cable, as set by the park switch.
When altered, the park position will be at 'full-push' if I can re-rig the park switch. As the drive is a plain crank, the stroke will be unchanged.
I think I believe myself, but I have nothing better to do at the moment than to try it!
Mike, I love to see unsynchronised wipers on buses etc; maybe not so much on a Trevor.
PP: I had a CX years ago. It didn't rock when the wiper was running, but that was because of the self-levelling......
My ideal would be 3 wipers like the Series 1 E-Type; they would fit the S screen much better. Sadly my MGB, being British spec., only had 2.
Edited by mentall on Thursday 7th May 17:37
mentall said:
PP: I had a CX years ago. It didn't rock when the wiper was running, but that was because of the self-levelling......
Now that is funny and I like funniesYou may or may not know the following, a website has saved me from having to explain the process
Enjoy the read if you don't know the ins and outs of the job
http://themgdoc.com/windshieldwiperpark.htm
Assuming that your motor is the same but could be wrong
Thanks, PP. A lovely set of instructions.
It looks as though a 180deg shift of the park position is quite straightforward, even though I'm not changing from RHD to LHD. I hope mine is just like that, or at least very similar. Tomorrow will tell: I'll report back.
Has anybody noticed that the nut that retains the wheelbox spindle bearing (and the black tapered mounting) in the bodywork has EIGHT flats tather than being hex? That's the one that's covered by the little plastic cup to keep the rain out.
I can see why it should be so (to keep the diameter down). But Is that a usual feature? On any car?
It looks as though a 180deg shift of the park position is quite straightforward, even though I'm not changing from RHD to LHD. I hope mine is just like that, or at least very similar. Tomorrow will tell: I'll report back.
Has anybody noticed that the nut that retains the wheelbox spindle bearing (and the black tapered mounting) in the bodywork has EIGHT flats tather than being hex? That's the one that's covered by the little plastic cup to keep the rain out.
I can see why it should be so (to keep the diameter down). But Is that a usual feature? On any car?
OK, here's a partial reveal. No pictures yet; when I establish how it's going to go, I'll try and do a step-by-step.
The old heater coped pathetically during our wet week (mostly hood-up) in Spain last September. It made a noise, and blew warm, moist air vaguely around the car. The 'screen never really cleared.
I'd freed-up and lubricated the seized fan motor, and replaced the resistors, a couple of years ago. To do that, I'd made the glassfibre panel in front of the heater removable and replaceable (I'm sure it's structural, there to reduce scuttle-shake).
But I knew the distribution flap was never going to cut the mustard.
Back from Spain, I fixed the other problems that had cropped up (seriously dropped passenger door, vibrating front brakes). This took a few weeks.
But then, when I started the car again, the heater motor had seized up again.
I researched various offerings from CBS (always good to deal with), and T7 Design. T7 have an excellent range of heaters and ducting products, and are very friendly and helpful. And incidentally, cheaper than CBS who duplicate some of their range. So helpful that they put me off using their '3.5kW Lightweight Heater' which looked a good dimensional fit. It uses a computer-type axial fan, which, while powerful and efficient, is really only any good in 'non-ducted', ie free air applications. And I'm going to use the TVR footwell ducts. AND feed fresh air to the intake through a 50 or 75mm duct from the front grille. The '5kW Midi Heater' with its centrifugal fan wasn't going to fit, although if the wiper drive will relocate it might be another option.
Incidentally, my scheme was to mount one of these on its side hanging from the dash plenum. But it still wasn't ideal: I'd be sacrificing the dash airvent feed to supply fresh air to the inlet, and there wasn't much space for butterfly air control valves.
Then I discovered this from Europa Spares. As well as hot air, it has a cold-air plenum from the fan, and when turned upside-down should feed the dash demist channel through the hot outlet slot (now at the top) leaving the 2 hot and 2 cold outlet spigots perfectly placed for the existing ducts!
Europa didn't have any other information about it beyond what's on the web page (would be useful to know the motor current etc) but thought it was rated at 17kW heat output. I'd take that with a pinch of salt, or something stronger! Oh, also that people used them on 'Cobras and Caterhams'.
When delivered, it turned out to be a much better than the grainy photo implied. It's made by Gallay, although not catalogued by them, and has a decent fan from SPAL of Italy. Their catalogue says it draws 5.3A at full whack. The construction of the welded and screwed box is well down to 1980's British motor industry OEM standards, but a good place to start.
The plan is to fit four T7 butterfly valves 1) inside the hot plenum feeding the dash through a metal register plate, and 2) outside the plenum, feeding the footwell ducts. The existing dash butterflies should look after the cold outlet. The fan inlet is then just where the LH dash vent duct comes in!
And all this begins today, if the wiper drive will shift. In its existing position, I need another 35mm or so, to get the dash back in.
All this has been punctuated by a month's holiday in New Zealand, which Covid turned into eight weeks. But we're still alive, and what could be a better lockdown project?
The old heater coped pathetically during our wet week (mostly hood-up) in Spain last September. It made a noise, and blew warm, moist air vaguely around the car. The 'screen never really cleared.
I'd freed-up and lubricated the seized fan motor, and replaced the resistors, a couple of years ago. To do that, I'd made the glassfibre panel in front of the heater removable and replaceable (I'm sure it's structural, there to reduce scuttle-shake).
But I knew the distribution flap was never going to cut the mustard.
Back from Spain, I fixed the other problems that had cropped up (seriously dropped passenger door, vibrating front brakes). This took a few weeks.
But then, when I started the car again, the heater motor had seized up again.
I researched various offerings from CBS (always good to deal with), and T7 Design. T7 have an excellent range of heaters and ducting products, and are very friendly and helpful. And incidentally, cheaper than CBS who duplicate some of their range. So helpful that they put me off using their '3.5kW Lightweight Heater' which looked a good dimensional fit. It uses a computer-type axial fan, which, while powerful and efficient, is really only any good in 'non-ducted', ie free air applications. And I'm going to use the TVR footwell ducts. AND feed fresh air to the intake through a 50 or 75mm duct from the front grille. The '5kW Midi Heater' with its centrifugal fan wasn't going to fit, although if the wiper drive will relocate it might be another option.
Incidentally, my scheme was to mount one of these on its side hanging from the dash plenum. But it still wasn't ideal: I'd be sacrificing the dash airvent feed to supply fresh air to the inlet, and there wasn't much space for butterfly air control valves.
Then I discovered this from Europa Spares. As well as hot air, it has a cold-air plenum from the fan, and when turned upside-down should feed the dash demist channel through the hot outlet slot (now at the top) leaving the 2 hot and 2 cold outlet spigots perfectly placed for the existing ducts!
Europa didn't have any other information about it beyond what's on the web page (would be useful to know the motor current etc) but thought it was rated at 17kW heat output. I'd take that with a pinch of salt, or something stronger! Oh, also that people used them on 'Cobras and Caterhams'.
When delivered, it turned out to be a much better than the grainy photo implied. It's made by Gallay, although not catalogued by them, and has a decent fan from SPAL of Italy. Their catalogue says it draws 5.3A at full whack. The construction of the welded and screwed box is well down to 1980's British motor industry OEM standards, but a good place to start.
The plan is to fit four T7 butterfly valves 1) inside the hot plenum feeding the dash through a metal register plate, and 2) outside the plenum, feeding the footwell ducts. The existing dash butterflies should look after the cold outlet. The fan inlet is then just where the LH dash vent duct comes in!
And all this begins today, if the wiper drive will shift. In its existing position, I need another 35mm or so, to get the dash back in.
All this has been punctuated by a month's holiday in New Zealand, which Covid turned into eight weeks. But we're still alive, and what could be a better lockdown project?
Here's the wiper drive that I'd like to turn upside-down.
And the motor in all its glory.
Here it is, out of the car.
Here's the guts.
Surely 'PARK RETD' means 'park retracted' (which it does).
The crank plate is riveted to the cam gear, so it could be moved through 180deg and re-attached.
But wait! There's an alternate fixing position for the microswitch, 180deg around!
If I move the switch to there, it should become the 'park extended' option.
Decisions, decisions.
First thing is to turn the spindle boxes upside down, and do a trial fit. The motor position will be rather different.
Time for tea...............
And the motor in all its glory.
Here it is, out of the car.
Here's the guts.
Surely 'PARK RETD' means 'park retracted' (which it does).
The crank plate is riveted to the cam gear, so it could be moved through 180deg and re-attached.
But wait! There's an alternate fixing position for the microswitch, 180deg around!
If I move the switch to there, it should become the 'park extended' option.
Decisions, decisions.
First thing is to turn the spindle boxes upside down, and do a trial fit. The motor position will be rather different.
Time for tea...............
Nice
This company can supply a 1.5 Meter rack that can be cut to length and any length of tubes needed. Might give some mounting options with a longer length tube
https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/wiper-systems-and...
You probably know about this but...............
This company can supply a 1.5 Meter rack that can be cut to length and any length of tubes needed. Might give some mounting options with a longer length tube
https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/wiper-systems-and...
You probably know about this but...............
Trial fit.
Gentle curve in the Bundy tube brings the motor back (almost) to where it was.
And the heater fits!
With the removable panel in place:
Since then, I've moved the park switch to the alternate position on the gearbox and blanked off the old aperture; cleaned, greased and reassembled the wiper drive, refitted the whole thing to the car. You can see my blanking plate at the top of the picture.
And it works! Covers the same area of screen, parks in the right place, too.
Now, on with the heater installation..............
Gentle curve in the Bundy tube brings the motor back (almost) to where it was.
And the heater fits!
With the removable panel in place:
Since then, I've moved the park switch to the alternate position on the gearbox and blanked off the old aperture; cleaned, greased and reassembled the wiper drive, refitted the whole thing to the car. You can see my blanking plate at the top of the picture.
And it works! Covers the same area of screen, parks in the right place, too.
Now, on with the heater installation..............
Edited by mentall on Thursday 14th May 17:51
The crank disc that drives the wipers is riveted to the driven gearwheel (see my photo: maybe not like the one in your guide).
The important thing here is the position of the crank (journal) bearing relative to the 'cam' projection on the opposite side of the gearwheel. We need the cam to be 180deg from the crank.
Sure, it would be possible to drill out the rivets, rotate the crank disc through 180deg and re-rivet it.
But since there's a 180deg position for the switch, I thought I'd do less damage by using that instead.
The important thing here is the position of the crank (journal) bearing relative to the 'cam' projection on the opposite side of the gearwheel. We need the cam to be 180deg from the crank.
Sure, it would be possible to drill out the rivets, rotate the crank disc through 180deg and re-rivet it.
But since there's a 180deg position for the switch, I thought I'd do less damage by using that instead.
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