Tvr s rebuild, refresh, modify, improve
Discussion
In circa 2002, my father purchased a tvr s3. An early mica blue, 2.9v6 with electric windows but manual mirrors, no fog lights
A well loved and cared for car before his purchase, which continued during his ownership. First job was to waxoil the chassis to protect it, which was mostly successful for many years, and with the exception of one outrigger showing signs of needing replacing on one mot (which was done instantly), and a fuel pump issue the car was faultless for many years.
This car was built to be used, and used it we did. It took us on our first ever trackday (Cadwell park, probably not the best start track), which probably influenced my decision to go racing, took us to the Nurburgring, and on many other track days and weekend fun drives
Cut to 2014, my parents are having a new house built so I offer to store the car for them, while it’s with me I changed the ageing clutch. Now I believe some S’ can have the gearbox removed with the engine in situ, but in typical tvr fashion, this wasn’t possible on this car
While doing this, I noticed what looked like the start of some rust on the chassis, uh oh! I mentioned this to dad and a plan was formed!
In 2018 when their house was built and moved into, and life had settled down we decided to start to recommission the car. It had been sorn and dry stored for a long time and it seemed only right to rebuild it
So the car was stripped down and I brought the chassis back with me, unfortunately I had forgotten to bring my trailer down, however I had taken my pickup truck
The chassis and wishbones were shot blasted, etch primed, repaired, then repainted in 2k paint rather than the factory powder coat.
On returning the chassis back to my parents, we started fitting the parts dad had purchased. Wishbones were polybushed, gaz golds fitted, willwood front brake conversion done, rear disc conversion, all fitted with brand new nuts and bolts.
A well loved and cared for car before his purchase, which continued during his ownership. First job was to waxoil the chassis to protect it, which was mostly successful for many years, and with the exception of one outrigger showing signs of needing replacing on one mot (which was done instantly), and a fuel pump issue the car was faultless for many years.
This car was built to be used, and used it we did. It took us on our first ever trackday (Cadwell park, probably not the best start track), which probably influenced my decision to go racing, took us to the Nurburgring, and on many other track days and weekend fun drives
Cut to 2014, my parents are having a new house built so I offer to store the car for them, while it’s with me I changed the ageing clutch. Now I believe some S’ can have the gearbox removed with the engine in situ, but in typical tvr fashion, this wasn’t possible on this car
While doing this, I noticed what looked like the start of some rust on the chassis, uh oh! I mentioned this to dad and a plan was formed!
In 2018 when their house was built and moved into, and life had settled down we decided to start to recommission the car. It had been sorn and dry stored for a long time and it seemed only right to rebuild it
So the car was stripped down and I brought the chassis back with me, unfortunately I had forgotten to bring my trailer down, however I had taken my pickup truck
The chassis and wishbones were shot blasted, etch primed, repaired, then repainted in 2k paint rather than the factory powder coat.
On returning the chassis back to my parents, we started fitting the parts dad had purchased. Wishbones were polybushed, gaz golds fitted, willwood front brake conversion done, rear disc conversion, all fitted with brand new nuts and bolts.
At this point, life got in the way, and the car stalled. After a while dad was struggling to get the motivation to carry on, and decided to treat himself to yet another midlife crisis (sorry ), a TVR Sagaris
But all was not lost, this is where the car becomes my project, a deal was agreed I could get it rolling in his garage, body back on, then it had to be removed
New copper nickel brake lines were run, group n rear diff mount fitted to an lsd, engine refitted and body dropped back on (with the aid of an engine crane)
I also decide upon inspection that the original tvr radiator had cooled for its final time and replaced it with a Subaru alloy one with rear mounted fans
Having fulfilled now what was agreed I loaded up the car and brought it back with me
Countless other jobs were now done, rebuilt interior, sort out the rats nest of wiring, sort out the immobiliser fault, braided brake lines, beaded clutch line, new fuel pump, tyres, tracking etc
A check over of the car now showed two remaining problems
I should preface by saying, I knew the car needed a service kit, after sitting for so long it always would, but I was aiming to get the car finished, running, and then service it, it was not too be. The fuel filter had a pin hole in it, no big drama
The other issue was the fuel tank, now wether this was a bodge done pre our ownership or a tvr factory thing I don’t know but, the removable tank filter plate was welded on, and that weld had gone porous. It was not dripping but it was getting the underside of the tank damp.
A quick trip to DG Sportscars and another tank was sourced. This was cleaned up, rust treated then sprayed
This brings me up to date, with a tank and service items sat in my hallway! The car doesn’t at the moment live in my garage, that is full of the fiat 500 project (see other thread, https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... )
Hopefully when this lockdown is over I can fit the remaining parts, service, give it another check over and all being well, MOT
But all was not lost, this is where the car becomes my project, a deal was agreed I could get it rolling in his garage, body back on, then it had to be removed
New copper nickel brake lines were run, group n rear diff mount fitted to an lsd, engine refitted and body dropped back on (with the aid of an engine crane)
I also decide upon inspection that the original tvr radiator had cooled for its final time and replaced it with a Subaru alloy one with rear mounted fans
Having fulfilled now what was agreed I loaded up the car and brought it back with me
Countless other jobs were now done, rebuilt interior, sort out the rats nest of wiring, sort out the immobiliser fault, braided brake lines, beaded clutch line, new fuel pump, tyres, tracking etc
A check over of the car now showed two remaining problems
I should preface by saying, I knew the car needed a service kit, after sitting for so long it always would, but I was aiming to get the car finished, running, and then service it, it was not too be. The fuel filter had a pin hole in it, no big drama
The other issue was the fuel tank, now wether this was a bodge done pre our ownership or a tvr factory thing I don’t know but, the removable tank filter plate was welded on, and that weld had gone porous. It was not dripping but it was getting the underside of the tank damp.
A quick trip to DG Sportscars and another tank was sourced. This was cleaned up, rust treated then sprayed
This brings me up to date, with a tank and service items sat in my hallway! The car doesn’t at the moment live in my garage, that is full of the fiat 500 project (see other thread, https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... )
Hopefully when this lockdown is over I can fit the remaining parts, service, give it another check over and all being well, MOT
Edited by christianyoung on Wednesday 1st April 12:52
Edited by christianyoung on Thursday 2nd April 17:09
Freeing the body off we did with a number of friends and a strong lift, it was fairly straightforward (except somehow damaging the wiring to the reversing light switch, if anyone knows the routing that could help find the other end of the break!)
Putting the body back on was straightforward enough with the crane once we worked out the correct routing of the straps
As for space, I’m lucky dads garage is large enough to work comfortably in however it is about 2hours away from me, the unit it is seen in in later pictures is a farmers barn I rent for the race car, luckily that was away getting some repairs beyond my ability done and has now been put in my parents garage, I’m having to move out soon so I’m on the lookout for another barn/unit in the Coventry area if anyone knows of one?
Also is there a maximum word count on here? Above a certain length it won’t let me post for some reason?
Putting the body back on was straightforward enough with the crane once we worked out the correct routing of the straps
As for space, I’m lucky dads garage is large enough to work comfortably in however it is about 2hours away from me, the unit it is seen in in later pictures is a farmers barn I rent for the race car, luckily that was away getting some repairs beyond my ability done and has now been put in my parents garage, I’m having to move out soon so I’m on the lookout for another barn/unit in the Coventry area if anyone knows of one?
Also is there a maximum word count on here? Above a certain length it won’t let me post for some reason?
phillpot said:
looking good
Getting gearbox out is tight but should be do-able? What was stopping it?
Was a good few years ago but if I remember correctly the box was hitting the chassis before the input shaft was clear of the clutch. I tried angling the engine down at the back to buy extra room but it would not go. Getting gearbox out is tight but should be do-able? What was stopping it?
It is very easy to pull the engine out though
christianyoung said:
christianyoung said:
I tried angling the engine down at the back to buy extra room but it would not go.
Dizzy out and left hand rocker cover off and it tilts back far enough ..... but it's still tight coming out.There's an old post on here somewhere shows how to grind a little off the tailhousing casting to help make things a little easier getting it back in.
christianyoung said:
It is very easy to pull the engine out though
It is, if you have a hoist You're obviously sorted but this may help someone (I accept there's small chance from the limited numbers that still use PH over FB)
Old PH post ...... Gearbox removal
Hello,
A few weeks ago i bought my first TVR S290, they fitted low profile tires and sport suspension on it what makes driving on Belgian roads very unpleasant.
Anyone know a good quality replacement set voor all 4 suspensions ( damper with springs prefitted ) ?
I want to enjoy the car for driving on sunday's.
Thanks for the help.
Ronny
A few weeks ago i bought my first TVR S290, they fitted low profile tires and sport suspension on it what makes driving on Belgian roads very unpleasant.
Anyone know a good quality replacement set voor all 4 suspensions ( damper with springs prefitted ) ?
I want to enjoy the car for driving on sunday's.
Thanks for the help.
Ronny
ronnymees said:
Hello,
A few weeks ago i bought my first TVR S290, they fitted low profile tires and sport suspension on it what makes driving on Belgian roads very unpleasant.
Anyone know a good quality replacement set voor all 4 suspensions ( damper with springs prefitted ) ?
I want to enjoy the car for driving on sunday's.
Thanks for the help.
Ronny
check out the suspension wiki at the top of the pageA few weeks ago i bought my first TVR S290, they fitted low profile tires and sport suspension on it what makes driving on Belgian roads very unpleasant.
Anyone know a good quality replacement set voor all 4 suspensions ( damper with springs prefitted ) ?
I want to enjoy the car for driving on sunday's.
Thanks for the help.
Ronny
If you use Facebook join this group ..... https://www.facebook.com/groups/tvrccbelgium
there are a few S owners in Belgium, I'm sure they can advise you
I have these ... clicky ... and am very pleased with them.
there are a few S owners in Belgium, I'm sure they can advise you
I have these ... clicky ... and am very pleased with them.
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 27th September 20:50
Do you know what make of shock absorbers you have on the car? Did you get any history/reciepts with the car?
they may just need adjusting and perhaps some softer springs? usually rear springs are a bit softer, put them on the front and then just one pair of springs to buy for the rear.
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