Rear brake lines
Discussion
Unless you can get a braided hose with a swivel end I see an issue..................
Screw flex into T by turning all of the flex pipe. How do you now screw the flex into the caliper?
Even with a banjo fitting at the caliper you will very lucky if one let alone both end up in the correct orientation to attach without putting a twist in them?
On mine I kept the "rigid" pipes from T to chassis then one long flex onto trailing arm to the caliper, rather than TVR's two short flexi's and a little rigid pipe on the trailing arm.
If you do go for full braided...just make sure that the they are attached to the chassis using 'proper clips' and it is acceptable to your chosen MOT centre. When I rebuilt mine using fully braided I used tiewraps to attach the lines to the chassis....as per how the original copper lines were attached. The car then failed it's MOT due to this and I had to revert back to copper lines with flexi pipe at the caliper end...
For some reason the fully braided lines also affected the brake bias (disc front, drum rear)...completely reversing the bias somehow....
Cheers
Jaye
For some reason the fully braided lines also affected the brake bias (disc front, drum rear)...completely reversing the bias somehow....
Cheers
Jaye
phillpot said:
Unless you can get a braided hose with a swivel end I see an issue..................
Screw flex into T by turning all of the flex pipe. How do you now screw the flex into the caliper?
Even with a banjo fitting at the caliper you will very lucky if one let alone both end up in the correct orientation to attach without putting a twist in them?
On mine I kept the "rigid" pipes from T to chassis then one long flex onto trailing arm to the caliper, rather than TVR's two short flexi's and a little rigid pipe on the trailing arm.
If you use a male/male adapter at the caliper sealed with a copper washer, and a female end on the hose, the alignment issues go away.Screw flex into T by turning all of the flex pipe. How do you now screw the flex into the caliper?
Even with a banjo fitting at the caliper you will very lucky if one let alone both end up in the correct orientation to attach without putting a twist in them?
On mine I kept the "rigid" pipes from T to chassis then one long flex onto trailing arm to the caliper, rather than TVR's two short flexi's and a little rigid pipe on the trailing arm.
phillpot said:
If such things exist it's job sorted.
To be fair i already have some kunifer line and fittings however seems sensible to simply extend the single line to save knocking up a fiddly hard line and fixing in as well as one less connection. Will use the kunifer underneath and no extra cost for extending the Hel line. On a recommndation from Phillpot I got all the parts I needed to make up my brake lines from HERE.
The fittings are very easy to use and assemble in to bespoke lines. The only problem was working out whether the fittings on the chassis end of the pipes needed to be metric or UNF.
I did this job four years ago and have not had any issues. You'll notice an improvement in the braking.
The fittings are very easy to use and assemble in to bespoke lines. The only problem was working out whether the fittings on the chassis end of the pipes needed to be metric or UNF.
I did this job four years ago and have not had any issues. You'll notice an improvement in the braking.
If you have basic mechanical skill then building your own lines is no problem
https://www.goodridge.co.uk/collections/buildaline...
https://www.goodridge.co.uk/collections/buildaline...
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