Dash removal for heater matrix
Discussion
Plumbing? just the pipes to the heater matrix from the engine?
horrible job but can be done without removing the dash, steering column out gives enough access if you don't mind working upside down!
If it's the same as mine the only heat to the passenger footwell is from an "eyeball" vent in the panel by the passengers left leg. There's every chance the long length of flexi hose to it is split or detached?
Another "issuer" i found was the flap which moves to direct air either to the screen or the interior is a poor fit in the box, even when set to interior air could blow past it to take the shorter/easier route out the screen vents. Something to look at if you do strip it right out
As for removing the dash, I can't remember, just keep undoing things till it comes free!
Got mine out now (for the second time). Awful job.
I can't see how you'd get the heater unit out without removing the whole dash, then cutting (and then replacing) the GRP panel in front of it.
To remove the dash complete:
1. Wheel and column switchgear off.
2. Centre console (multi-way plug/socket connectors) and glovebox out.
3. Each end of dash moulding, at the bottom: a screw attaching it to an agricultural bracket on the body.
4. The worst bit: up and under, 4/5/6 screws through the underneath of the demist plenum, up into the dash top. Some are hidden above the heater. This bit (in fact, the whole job) is easier without the seats.
5. Demist vents out (they're basically a push-fit, but fragile)
6. The dash will be a tight fit, probably with stray sealant under the screen. Put a short batten into each of the demist vent holes, each with a loop of rope passing around the seatbelt top mounting. Twist the rope loops (a 'Spanish windlass') until the dash starts to move.
7. Then remember to detach the heater valve control cable at the valve so the cable can move back with the dash.
8. Pull out the dash, and disconnect a few multi-way plugs and sockets and the air-flap control.
One of the worst jobs on the car. I'm doing it again, so as to replace the entire heater with a decent unit, with proper air controls and even a fresh-air inlet. Blowing moist air around the car won't do any more.
I think I've sourced the parts: I'll post more when it's done.
I can't see how you'd get the heater unit out without removing the whole dash, then cutting (and then replacing) the GRP panel in front of it.
To remove the dash complete:
1. Wheel and column switchgear off.
2. Centre console (multi-way plug/socket connectors) and glovebox out.
3. Each end of dash moulding, at the bottom: a screw attaching it to an agricultural bracket on the body.
4. The worst bit: up and under, 4/5/6 screws through the underneath of the demist plenum, up into the dash top. Some are hidden above the heater. This bit (in fact, the whole job) is easier without the seats.
5. Demist vents out (they're basically a push-fit, but fragile)
6. The dash will be a tight fit, probably with stray sealant under the screen. Put a short batten into each of the demist vent holes, each with a loop of rope passing around the seatbelt top mounting. Twist the rope loops (a 'Spanish windlass') until the dash starts to move.
7. Then remember to detach the heater valve control cable at the valve so the cable can move back with the dash.
8. Pull out the dash, and disconnect a few multi-way plugs and sockets and the air-flap control.
One of the worst jobs on the car. I'm doing it again, so as to replace the entire heater with a decent unit, with proper air controls and even a fresh-air inlet. Blowing moist air around the car won't do any more.
I think I've sourced the parts: I'll post more when it's done.
Edited by mentall on Friday 13th December 16:30
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