Clutch problems

[arthurs]

Hi I have had S3 for 2 years and the gearchange has never been great a bit notchy in fact.Now it very difficult to get it first even harder to get reverse. While checking the history I find it has had 3 slave cylinders and 2 master cylinders but the car has only done 60 000 miles.
Is the master cylinder pushrod adjustable? It looks like it might be but you can't get in very well.
Anyone got any ideas I've run out of them. Regards Arthur

[MisterTee]

Not sure whether the clutch pushrod is adjustable, but check to see that the pushrod hasn’t pushed its way through the hole in the arm at the gearbox.

I think originally the clutch was cable operated in the days when they were used in Fords. There is a thread about this somewhere on this forum .....someone might be able to point you in the right direction.

Also check to see whether your engine and gearbox mounts haven’t collapsed as this can also have an impact.

There will no doubt be others along soon with their suggestions too.

Andy

[MisterTee]

Found this ... hope it is helpful?

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Andy

[phillpot]

Picture here of a repaired clutch arm.


Are you loosing clutch fluid, has the level dropped, do you need to keep topping up?

Edited by phillpot on Friday 26th April 13:15

[arthurs]

Thanks for the replies some more info the gearbox is filled with ATF fluid I intend replacing with EP 80 / 90.The m/c rod protrudes through the clutch fork by approximately 5 mm so that seems ok.The pedal is the about the same height as the brake pedal.Forgot to say it a type 9 box.
Last weekend we went on our annual weekend away doing 500 miles the clutch was perfect the next day after my wife drove it I couldn't get the gears. Regards Arthur

[Fefeu52]

Where does the problem come from ? This is the first question to answer.

Ask somebody to go to the driver seat and push the clutch pedal. With the engine off and first gear engaged, you must be able to push the car by hand, without any friction effort. Inertia due to the car weight, yes. Friction, no. If there is friction, this is a clutch problem (or hydraulic control). If your clutch sliding point is really close to the carpet, If you are absolutely sure that master / slave / liquid and bleeding is OK, have a look to all the mechanical system. Any play in the pedal shaft or clutch arm (as shown by phillpot) can cost you several degrees in the pedal stroke.

Second procedure to do, hi lift the back of your car (2 back wheels not on the floor), start your engine, let him running at idle speed, and softly try to engage your first gear without pushing the clutch. If the gearbox oil is OK, and baulk rings in good condition, you will be able to speed up your prop-shaft and engage each gear, up and down without crushing. Baulk rings do their job and speed up or down the prop-shaft before allow to engage the gear dog teeth. If you can't engage any gear without crushing noise, you have an oil or baulk rings (or both) problem.

[GreenV8S]

arthurs said:

Thanks for the replies some more info the gearbox is filled with ATF fluid I intend replacing with EP 80 / 90.The m/c rod protrudes through the clutch fork by approximately 5 mm so that seems ok.The pedal is the about the same height as the brake pedal.Forgot to say it a type 9 box.
Last weekend we went on our annual weekend away doing 500 miles the clutch was perfect the next day after my wife drove it I couldn't get the gears. Regards Arthur

There is a quirk of some worn master cylinders where the at rest position of the master cylinder piston depends on how quickly you take your foot off the pedal. With most designs the piston needs to be fully home against the end stop in order to open the port to the reservoir. If the piston doesn't return home fully that doesn't happen; any leakage within the m/c would result in the pedal sinking fractionally until eventually it doesn't release the clutch fully. Particularly if the problem started after a change of drivers, I'd wonder whether there may be something like that going on.

[phillpot]

arthurs said:

the clutch was perfect the next day after my wife drove it I couldn't get the gears.

... Let your Wife drive!

[TVRruss]

Hi, havnt joined in a chat before 😳 but I had the same or Similar issue with my 1990 S3 with a type 9 box. In the end i replaced the clutch and all gears changes including revers are now perfect. It was a fairly strait forward job apart from getting the box out! Which incolved grinding a little off the gearbox casing! I brought my new 3 part clutch kit from TVR spares (borg and beck) for i think about £150.
Hope this helps 👍

[arthurs]

Got the car sorted out today.Changed to the correct oil and put a tube of Forte gearbox additive in I had some great results when I used it before.IBled the clutch at the same with the help of the misses and lo and behold a perfect clutch.I am going to wrap the slave cylinder in a heat proof wrap to keep it cool.
A big thank you for all your help. Regards Arthur