Distributor oil seal replacement

[TVR-Stu]

Whilst I have the engine out I was trying to think of any other jobs I should be doing and one that came to mind was replacing the oil seal on the distributor. There was definitely some oil down the back of the engine so I think it should be done as it's got to be easier with the engine out.

So, how hard is it? Do I just undo the bolt, carefully lift out the distributor, replace the seal and drop the thing back in to place making sure the engine doesn't 'move' in the mean time. Can't be as easy as that can it? I suppose I have to find TDC first? Not that I'm overly confident of finding that but there is a first time for everything.

I really don't want to mess this up so any advice would be gratefully received.

This is on the 2.9 engine if that makes a difference?

[phillpot]

It's a bit tricky..............

Distributor turns as it comes out, it's on a skew gear but even if you note its exact position as it comes out (stops turning) it doesn't always like dropping backing in because the hexagon drive for the oil pump also has to line up


Start with engine at TDC and with the cap off scratch or pencil some marks somewhere on the rotor arm and dizzy baseplate so you know exactly where it should be at TDC.

Now if you have to turn the engine a few degrees either way to get the dizzy to drop in you have some marks to get it all back where it should be.... hopefully!

[TVR-Stu]

phillpot said:

It's a bit tricky..............

Distributor turns as it comes out, it's on a skew gear but even if you note its exact position as it comes out (stops turning) it doesn't always like dropping backing in because the hexagon drive for the oil pump also has to line up


Start with engine at TDC and with the cap off scratch or pencil some marks somewhere on the rotor arm and dizzy baseplate so you know exactly where it should be at TDC.

Now if you have to turn the engine a few degrees either way to get the dizzy to drop in you have some marks to get it all back where it should be.... hopefully!

That's pretty much what I feared!

I keep wondering if it's worth taking the risk of a monumental cock up for a small oil leak at the back of the engine. I think I'll have to think on it. Thanks anyway.

[Barry S1]

Mat Smith is doing mine on Friday, I'll give you a idea of the cost of a garage doing it when I get it back.

[TVR-Stu]

Barry S1 said:

Mat Smith is doing mine on Friday, I'll give you a idea of the cost of a garage doing it when I get it back.

Thank you Barry that would be helpful as a guide should I not tackle it myself.

[Bercilac]

I found I had to waggle the crankshaft with a spanner to get it to drop down onto the gears.

First try it didn't then line up with all my marks, so I removed the dizzy, rotated the crank 360 degrees and dropped it in again, the marks lined up so I'm guessing I wasn't hitting TDC on cylinder 1.

I haven't started the engine yet as the chassis isn't back under the car after I tore my quads in January :-(

[Steve_D]

Don't worry about where the engine is as you will not be moving it.
Using tipex make an alignment mark on both the block and the dizzy base.
Remove dizzy cap and make an alignment mark on the tip of the rotor arm and the rim of the dizzy.
Remove the clamp and lift the dizzy. The rotor arm will turn as you lift. As the dizzy comes out mark on the rim where the rotor stopped rotating.
Change seal.
Align rotor arm with your second mark and insert the dizzy holding it roughly so your base marking is in line with the one on the block. It should slide in and all your first rotor arm and base marks line up. fit clamp and your done.

However.
Sometimes the oil pump drive does not align and the dizzy will not go right in. Do not move the crank or your timing position will be lost.
Slide the dizzy back out and look down the hole at the oil pump drive. Using a suitable tool turn it very slightly. Try inserting the dizzy again.
You may need to try several times before you find the correct position but do not be tempted to move the crank.

Steve

[TVR-Stu]

Thanks for that explanation Steve, you make it sound easy!

I'll definitely be giving it a try though as the last thing I want after spending hours and hours cleaning and painting the engine is an oily dribble down the back of the engine when it's back in situ.

Now all I need to do is find a seal!

[phillpot]

TVR-Stu said:

Now all I need to do is find a seal!

Very old post but they were still available from Ford more recently

Bercilac said:

rotated the crank 360 degrees and dropped it in again

Won't your timing now be out by 180 degrees?


Whether you turn the crank a little either way or reach down to the hex drive for the oil pump,the important bit is to have everything marked up before you move anything.....

Crank position (TDC is easiest)
Distributor body to block
rotor arm to distributor baseplate.

P.S. you'll need some very long nosed pliers to reach the pump drive




ETA. yes, the spring clip is in the O ring groove!

Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 19th March 15:02

[Barry S1]

Let Mat Smith do it looks the best option

[TVR-Stu]

Barry S1 said:

Let Mat Smith do it looks the best option

I agree with you Barry but unless he does home visits It may be logistically tricky!

Also I don't think it's beyond me...........hopefully!

[Barry S1]

It was about an hours work for Matt so £ 60 ish +vat.
If all goes well

[phillpot]

Bring it here, 50 quid cash

[TVR-Stu]

Barry S1 said:

It was about an hours work for Matt so £ 60 ish +vat.
If all goes well

Thanks Barry, I've picked up a seal from the local Ford dealers for the grand total of £1.25 so when I get a chance I'm going to give it a go myself and either save some cash or cock it up......................and pay phillpot to do it

[phillpot]

...............

[TVR-Stu]

Back to square one.