S3 dash light fibre optics....wanted.

[fozzy280472]

Does anyone have any spare S3 fibre optic cables from the dash heater controls they might want to swap for some beer vouchers ?
I've just managed to snap one during the dash removal ( it already had damaged sleeving from chafing on some fibreglass ) . It's the longer length cable , around 45cm in length .
I've managed to semi repair it but it's now noticeably dimmer.
Here's hoping !

[Penelope Stopit]

She comes in colors everywhere
She combs her hair
She's like a rainbow
Coming colors in the air
Oh everywhere
She comes in colors

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=fiber+opti...

[fozzy280472]

Hi , yes I had already seen that but I specifically want an original one as it has the correct termination fittings to fit in the heater panel .
Did you change yours ? If so can you let me know what fittings you used and if you have one a photo says a thousand words.
Cheers for the reply.

[phillpot]

Do these look like the correct fittings?

Could you join two together (heatshrink)?


Fibre optic cable

[Penelope Stopit]

fozzy280472 said:

Hi , yes I had already seen that but I specifically want an original one as it has the correct termination fittings to fit in the heater panel .
Did you change yours ? If so can you let me know what fittings you used and if you have one a photo says a thousand words.
Cheers for the reply.

Sorry I don't have any fibre optic cables for your car

As you already know - Joining the fibres is no good as it would need to be a 100% perfect face to face joint after cutting and polishing the ends

Have you an image?

See http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/Lotus%20Esprit%20p7....

Dashboard switches are the lever type found on the Austin Princess as well as the TR7. There are actually a couple of different versions of these switches, they were also used on the later Ambassador as well I believe, and probably one or two other cars. The main difference is that the ends of the levers can be either plain or ribbed, and the logo for the switch function can be on the lever end or on a little window in the switch body. Standard for the Esprit was ribbed, with logo on the body. The switches use common parts of course, so it is possible to dismantle them and swap levers, copper contact strips etc. as necessary. These switches come up occasionally on Ebay, as do pod motors. The switches have backlighting by the infamous fibre-optic system also used on the Princess and the TVR wedges

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 20th February 17:31

[paul.deitch]

I replaced mine with LEDs years ago. I took the opportunity to add one just above the temperature control which provides some downlight to the controls and switches. Oh and they are green LEDs.

[fozzy280472]

Hi Mike , yes they are the correct ends and I have tried joining them with heat shrink , it's not the best , I used some aviation joining compound specifically for fibre databuses and as I said it works but is noticeably dimmer .
Cheers for the info Penelope stopit , I actually thought the fibre optic system was only used in the sd1 rover , you learn something every day !!

[v8s4me]

fozzy280472 said:

... it works but is noticeably dimmer ....

Dimmer? is that possible?

[Penelope Stopit]

I have found a splicing tool that isn't very expensive, if you're really struggling
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTTH-Splicing-Splice-Fi...f:0

I have never posted an emoticon here at PH but ebay often posts one for me for some reason, there must be something wrong with the way the PH server handles html

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 20th February 20:12

[fozzy280472]

v8s4me said:

fozzy280472 said:

... it works but is noticeably dimmer ....

Dimmer? is that possible?

Me ..?? Or the dash lighting .......or both...??? 😀

[v8s4me]

Try replacing the incandescent bulb (sorry Paul, "lamp" ) with a much brighter LED. This will give you more light without the risk of heat build up behind the centre console. I can't remember which LED lamp I used but I'm sure you'll find one on eBay.
I can't promise it will make a huge difference but they might get you from dim to glow.

Edited by v8s4me on Wednesday 20th February 21:56

[fozzy280472]

Cheers for the reply , yes I've already bought an uprated Led bulb , I'll have to wait to see if it makes any difference though .
What's with the bulb / lamp comment ....am I missing something ?

[phillpot]

I think that's another Paul, these are bulbs......


These are lamps......

[GreenV8S]

paul.deitch said:

I replaced mine with LEDs years ago.

That sounds like a smart upgrade to do if you have access to the back of the dashboard.

As a shorter term temporary repair, maybe it would be possible to connect a flat faced LED to the end of the original fiber. That would let you get rid of the long, vulnerable lengths of fiber in the center of the console and probably be no harder than trying to splice the broken fiber. I haven't tried it, but I've seen videos showing the LED and fiber joined by a plastic tube which is heat shrunk around them which made it look quite easy.

[fozzy280472]

Oh ok I see now , I'm always slated by the other avionics boys for calling them lamps or bulbs ...... apparently they're supposed to be called filaments ....oh well.
I did start looking into replacing it all with LEDs but in the end I just couldn't be bothered , maybe a project for another time .
Now the dash is trimmed down a bit and will be refitted with wingnuts , it shouldn't be too difficult to remove again.

[mrufcs1]

phillpot said:

I think that's another Paul, these are bulbs......


These are lamps......

100% Agree. I would have roasted as an apprentice for calling a lamp a bulb.

Bulbs go in the garden, lamps go in a lamp fitting.

A lamp consists (traditionally) of a cap (Edison screw or bayonet), a filament, sometimes an internal igniter, and a glass 'bulb' full of inert gas.

My trainer in the apprentice training centre would so proud..............

[paul.deitch]

GreenV8S said:

That sounds like a smart upgrade to do if you have access to the back of the dashboard.

I drilled out the studs at the back at the back of the switch plate, Araldited some captive nuts on the back of the console and used hex bolts to hold the plate in place. I think it looks ok and it is very easy to demount/mount without having to remove the whole console.