Speedo removal

[rzrz]

White trying to replace the defective wiper park switch I realise it would help to have the speedo out (LHD car). I removed the metal strip at the back, but the speedo seems to be too big to pull it out, pushing it backward is also not possible.
Please help.
Raoul

[phillpot]

There have been several dashboard designs, which do you have?

[rzrz]

It's a S3C

[mentall]

I found it impossible to get the big dials out of mine (1990 S3C RHD) without taking the whole dash out.

But I had to do that anyway to get at the heater: possibly the worst job in the world.

Others may have found a way?

[mentall]

I found it impossible to get the big dials out of mine (1990 S3C RHD) without taking the whole dash out.

But I had to do that anyway to get at the heater: possibly the worst job in the world.

Others may have found a way?

[tvrgit]

The dials are held into a plate that mounts BEHIND the dash, and then the wood-effect trim goes in front of all of that. The holes in the trim are smaller than the dial bezels, so you can't get the dials out.

THis photo shows what I mean :



However, you can remove the wood trim without taking the whole dash out. It's held on with 6 nuts - the locations are shown by the yellow dots on this photo



3 of those nuts also go through and hold that dial mounting plate in place, through the holes you see in the first photo. Be warned though - they are really fiddly. No, I mean REALLY fiddly, because upside-down access is really limited. You'll also need to remove the heater control and that's held on by a bracket and another 2 nuts.

With the trim panel off, and with the speedo bracket removed as you've done, you should be able to pull the dial out towards the steering wheel.

Edited by tvrgit on Monday 23 July 11:53

[GreenV8S]

I haven't had to tackle that yet, but I'm wondering if there is a better way to refit the veneer trim. Maybe just gluing some magnets to the dashboard to hold the metal backing plate in position? It seems crazy to have so many awkward fixings.

[lordofthewings]

I love the idea of holding the veneer in place with magnets or, say, Blu Tack, which (judging by some of the classifieds on here and Ebay) is not uncommon. The previous owner of my S3 had the dash and subsidiary panel properly re-veneered 5 years ago, it still looks better than new but it cost 4 figures, thank goodness it wasn't me that had to pay that !

Edited by lordofthewings on Monday 23 July 16:19

[rzrz]

Thanks Tvrgit, I'll have a go at it

[Steve_D]

If you get as far as removing/accessing the mounting plate for the large dials as here



Check/replace the warning lights. TVR fitted a type with a non replaceable bulb so you have to do all this work just because a bulb has failed. If you replace with removable bulb style lamp you can get upside down in the footwell and change a bulb.

Type TVR fitted.


Replace with


Steve

[mjjrV8S]

Are there LED bulb options instead? I seem to find it hard to see any of the lights through the dark facia panel.

Edited by mjjrV8S on Friday 27th July 18:54

[Steve_D]

The lamps I suggested have replaceable bulbs so there should be LED versions available.

Steve

[phillpot]

mjjrV8S said:

Are there LED bulb options instead?

You want LED's? then LED's you shall have................. clicky

Note: using an LED for ignition warning light may cause problems, an additional resistor in series parallel will be required I believe?

Edited by phillpot on Saturday 28th July 08:05

[mikeock64]

So how on earth do you get the walnut veneer off in one piece?????

[v8s4me]

When you say "walnut veneer" do you mean (i) the metal plate across the front of the dash or do you mean (ii) just the veneer?

if (i) then you have to undo the screws holding the large dash moulding to the tub, slide it back towards you, reach behind and undo all the nuts holding the metal dash plate to the moulding. If (ii) don't bother trying until you've done (i).

Edited by v8s4me on Thursday 20th February 23:35

[mikeock64]

Thanks for coming back to me Joe. The veneer panel will have to come off to get to the metal plate?
The milometer is intermittently working and I’ve been told it’s the inner workings of the speedo. Your thoughts would be appreciated. I don’t use it much and wonder if it’s just got a bit sticky?
I don’t want the dash out if possible.

v8s4me said:

When you say "walnut veneer" do you mean (i) the metal plate across the front of the dash or do you mean (ii) just the veneer?

if (i) then you have to undo the screws holding the large dash moulding to the tub, slide it back towards you, reach behind and undo all the nuts holding the metal dash plate to the moulding. If (ii) don't bother trying try until you've done (i).

[v8s4me]

You could try pulling the moulding back and seeing if that gives you enough access to get to the nuts which hold the speedo/tacho mounting plate to the back of the veneered plate.

NB - there are two metal plates; the main one you can see with the veneered finish on it and a smaller one which holds the instruments. This is the smaller one...



This is the back of the veneered panel...


The studs highlighted locate the instrument mounting plate to the back of the veneered plate.

Totally bonkers Heath Robinson but so typical TVR.

You'll find between 2 and 4 large screws in the positions marked with an arrow, undo these...



At A&B you'll find brackets which hold the bottom of the dash to the tub. When these are unbolted you should be able to pull the large moulding towards you which should give you enough room to get at the nuts on the studs shown above.

You'll have to drop the steering column (undo the bracket under the dash) and removing the steering wheel is sensible. Taking the driver's seat out as well make the job easier.

There's loads of posts on here giving you all the detail you'll need. Just do a search and see what you come up with. You might even find my old post. Good luck

[mikeock64]

Thanks. I’ll give it a go and report back.

[v8s4me]

If you feel along the front of the big dash moulding where it touches the bottom of the 'screen you might be able to feel the captive nuts. This will help you to find the screws.