Starter Motor

[Sandgrounder]

The last 5 or so times I have attempted to start my S3 have resulted in a a loud click from the starter motor, with no subsequent rotation.

Tried bashing the solenoid with a block of wood, (have to take one of the leads off to get access) but still no joy.

So, is my only option a refurbished starter motor, or is there something relatively easy I can do to check/fix my own?

If it is time for a replacement starter motor, can someone tell me the Part No. please? Assuming there is only one starter motor option for the 2.9 engine.

Thanks

[GreenV8S]

Check what voltage is reaching the solenoid when you are trying to crank it over. Starter motor problems could be mechanical or electrical or a combination. The 'big yellow connector' by the ignition switch is a notorious source of electrical problems, and you could also have a dodgy immobiliser, tired wiring, poor engine or battery earth connections, a weak battery - the list goes on.

The solenoid itself is also vulnerable to dirt and heat damage and could be sticking. The solution for that is a refurb.

[Maffe]

Have you made sure it’s not the dreaded yellow connector?
Or bad wireing?
http://www.fordopedia.org/parts-catalog/24-29-v6/B...

[Sandgrounder]

Cheers Gents. No yellow connector on mine, must have been sorted in a previous life, thankfully.
Not sure I would know what defined bad wiring?

I guess I can take a cursory look once I can get underneath, but never had wiring problems on mine (other than the cooling fan relay and fuse holder).
I removed the immobiliser a few years ago, so I can rule that out.
I'll probably price up a reconditioned starter.

Thanks for the help.

[GreenV8S]

Sandgrounder said:

Not sure I would know what defined bad wiring?

Basically, all of these electrical problems would show up as a voltage drop at the starter motor. Measure the voltage there while you're trying to crank it, and this will tell you whether you have any electrical problem; if you do, you can measure the voltage drop back at the battery and the circuit to the starter to find where the drop occurs.

[Maffe]

Always good to make sure it’s nothing else before buying a new starter
Try using a jumpstart cable from the battery to the starter?
I have installed a stater button on my s3 after chasing a “ghost”, that was after a new starter and alternator was installed. Guess what costed most...

[AutoAndy]

As the starter needs a lot of justice, one solution that I found in the past was to disconnect and clean the battery earth cable where it joins the chassis. When corroded it absorbs power ...it is a quick and free thing to try before attacking the starter itself

[ukflyboy]

I'm no electrics expert, but pretty sure a poor earth would show up on a multimeter test, so that should be the first line of diagnostics. No sense spending money on a new starter motor if you have exactly the same when you fit a new one!

[Buzzlt]

Nope don’t agree with checking the earth on the starter, or necessarily the voltage. Jump leads are the way forward as Maffe says. They are the simplest solution to something that you may spend hours trying to prove. Red one on one of the big nuts, black one in the starter or near it. If it still doesn't work then at least it is conclusive that the starter is faulty.

Good luck.

[Penelope Stopit]

Buzzlt said:

Nope don’t agree with checking the earth on the starter, or necessarily the voltage. Jump leads are the way forward as Maffe says. They are the simplest solution to something that you may spend hours trying to prove. Red one on one of the big nuts, black one in the starter or near it. If it still doesn't work then at least it is conclusive that the starter is faulty.

Good luck.

Although this method seems to be foolproof it isn't, the battery, jump leads or their connections could be bad
It's all about voltage as voltages never lie

If the battery and jump leads are good then this is a very quick test, if the battery or jump leads are playing up a voltmeter is still needed to find the the problem

[v8s4me]

Buzzlt said:

Nope don’t agree with checking the earth on the starter, or necessarily the voltage. Jump leads are the way forward as Maffe says. ...

+1. Initially anyway. Once you've done this and the motor spins freely then you know it's a wiring fault somewhere else. Based on past experience I'd suggest you check the power supply from the relay to the starter. If that's OK then check the power supply to the relay. Then check the wiring to the switching circuit on the relay. That way you're working back to the ignition switch. You can work the other way but as I say, this is based on past experience and if I'd done as I say rather than what I did we'd have found the problem in a couple of minutes rather than a couple of hours

In my case the problem was solved by fitting a new live feed from the battery to the relay (on the starter circuit side of the relay).

[rzrz]

I had 9.5 volts at the starter engine. Earth was okay. Fitted a relay, fires up at first attempt since then.

[phillpot]

Perfect timing, June edition of Sprint

[Sandgrounder]

Hmmm, not as straight forward as I assumed then?!

I just assumed that if the starter was clicking, voltage must be fine and it was a mechanical/ sticking issue.

I will do some electrical checks (when I find the time to tinker) before spending any money on a new part.

Thanks for the tips.

Sandgrounder

[Barry S1]

I had the same thing put on a new starter and still didn't work in the end I put a earth lead from the starter to the chassis works fine now, maybe try the earth lead first it's a lot cheaper.

[Penelope Stopit]

Volty faults is often the problem

[mentall]

When my starter went intermittent, the fault turned out to be at the fixed battery contact terminal on the solenoid. The solenoid was pulling in, both on the car and on the bench, but not making an adequate connection between the contacts.

The housing was damaged so the contact could move; you can check if the stud is loose without removing the motor.

I tried several times to bodge it, but then was lucky to find a 'bought-not-used' refurb motor cheap on ebay………….

[v8s4me]

Sandgrounder said:

Hmmm, not as straight forward as I assumed then?!...

Don't be put off, it's quite simple. Use one jump lead to test the earth then if that makes no difference suspect the power supply. Leave the earth jumper on and attach the other jump lead to the battery and touch the large terminal on the starter. If it spins your motor is fine. Take off the earth jump lead and touch the large terminal again. If it spins the earth is fine. If it doesn't spin, check the earth again.

Simples

[GreenV8S]

The jump lead approach definitely works, but personally I find it much easier and safer to clip a couple of volt meter leads on rather than wrestle heavy jumper cables into place and make sure they don'y short out anywhere. The meter will show whether there is an electrical supply problem. If you have good voltage across it and the starter doesn't work, you know it'll need to come off in any case. If you don't have a good voltage across the starter then the meter is also the tool to work out why not.

[v8s4me]

GreenV8S said:

..... personally I find it much easier and safer to clip a couple of volt meter leads on rather than wrestle heavy jumper cables into place and make sure they don'y short out anywhere. ....

There were two of us to make sure we didn't set fire to anything